Another "problem after tb install" thread

[JohnCIV_Talon]

Well I just bought a new tb, it says it was a 2g throttle body. Looks exactly the same as mone I had on. It was fullly refurbished. The only thing I had to do was swap the sensors which I thought I did correctly. I used my logger for the tps and put it right at 0%. I just simplly un-bolted the other sensor and bolted it into the new throttle body. Ill explain what its doing now. When it is turned on it will go up to 2800 rpm, then it will try to go up and then all off a sudden drop off like its fluctuating, it will keep doing that. I have no clue what I could have did wrong. What sensor do you think is the problem? Its possible I set the tps with my logger lower then 0% maybe, what effect would that have?

 

[turbodsm18]

How did you use the logger to set the tps???

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

I just re did it and set it to 1% just to make sure i wasnt going to far past negative. The logger has throttle position, thats how, and the throttle body only has two nipples but everything else is the same.

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

ok, well i can explain a tad bit better what it does. It will idle up to 3k initially. Then after like 5 seconds drop off and quickly fluctuate from 2k-2400 over and over.

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

anyone? i found out it idles at 1500 after being fully warmed.

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

Hey, well i have been doing some reading, to me it sounds like the classic surge problem. I used two sensors I knew worked so I dont think that could be the problem. I made sure my throttle cable was loose enough but not to loose. The biss screw is tightened in all the way. Now my o2 sensor is toast, but before i did the swap it was toast to and did not do this. Im really lost with ideas. I do notice the gas pedal feels pretty tight, but the cable isnt tight at the throttle body. I cant get the o2 sensor off for the life of me so im taking it to a shop, so someone with some tools can do it. Ill really need some suggestions here guys.

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

Ok well, I was wondering if you can read the voltage with a safc2, whicjh I have and it read .655 volts to the tps sensor. could this be my problem? Someone atleast say something, call me an idiot, just someone reply please.?

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

Well I now see after all my little research that it isnt possible to set the 2g tps without a ohm meter, damn to bad no one could answer this 10 hors ago when the stores were open. Thanks!!

Now can someone please help me out with these instructions

Closed TP Switch and TP Sensor Adjustment [2G]

1. Disconnect the connector of the TPS.
2. Connect ohm meter between terminals 3 and 4.
3. Insert a feeler gauge with thickness 0.45mm (.0177 in.) between the throttle stop and the throttle lever.
[Fold a piece of paper in half 4 times if you don't have the feeler -Ed.]
4. Loosen the TPS mounting bolts. Turn the TPS all the way counter
clockwise.
5. Check for continuity in this condition.
6. Slowly turn the TPS clockwise until the point where continuity and
non-continuity is found (pins 3 and 4).
7. Tighten the TPS mounting bolts.
8. Check the voltage between pins 2 and 4 of the TPS with the ignition
switch on, but the engine not started.
9. Standard value: 400 - 1000 mV
10. Remove the feeler gauge.

How hard is using a ohm, connectin it to 3 and 4? What do I do there?
What does it mean by checking for continuity? When do I know when continuity and non continuity is found?

 

[steve]

Take your ohm meter (or multimeter set to measure resistance) and touch the two probes together. Note the display, that's continuity (or short, 0 ohms) and many meters will beep. move the probes so that they aren't touching and note the display, that's non-continuity (or open, infinity ohms)

To measure volts you need to change the meter to the right setting and remember the black probe goes to ground and the red probe to the point you want to measure. Don't try and measure resistance on circuits that are powered, you will damage your meter.

If the meter you have doesn't have aligator clips you might want to pick up some jumper wires with clips so you can connect the probes to pins and have free hands.

Next trick is finding the right pins. A 1G TPS is missing pin 3 but all of them are present on a 2G TPS. You can look at the wire colors on the harness and see which pin connects to which wire. pin 3 is a yellow/red wire and pin 4 black on a 2G turbo. I beleive they are the pins on the right when you leaning over the front bumper.

Now follow the instructions above.

Steve

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

That was a lot of helpful info, thank you. I understand the whole continuity thing now, but what does it mean to find the point when they both are found?

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

Oh and also does my problem sound like it could be a mis adjusted tps?

 

[steve]

That was a lot of helpful info, thank you. I understand the whole continuity thing now, but what does it mean to find the point when they both are found?

Your looking for the point just were it switches from one to the other.

Steve

 

[CheaCheaBoy]

ok how bout I tried installing a 1g TB on my 2G.
When I crank it up to start the car,
it idles for like 3 seconds if I'm lucky then shuts off.
as my exhaust pops.

What the hell is wrong?

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

I was wondering about the actual throttle body I got its self, it says it was a 2g dsm 1995-99 throttle body, the thing is, it only has two nipples. Everything else looks the same, could this be my problem?

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

Your looking for the point just were it switches from one to the other.

Steve

Does it matter if its off by a very tiny amount? When checking the voltage after you did it, how do you do that at pin 2 and 4 when you cant have the tps hooked up?

 

[JohnCIV_Talon]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=151206056#post151206056

As you can see mr site general, I had another thread that did get little to no help. I wasnt getting pissy just rubbing it in that I fixed it myself. Sorry, got over excited I fixed my car after two full days.

By the way I dont know what fixed it, I re positioned my tps for the third time, swapped isc's, and blocked the fiav. I cant really say what fixed it, although I think it was the fiav. The car when first started opens at 1500 rpmm, then as soon as it does that slowly drops to 1k rpm(which I like the high rpm) where it stays hot or cold. This also fixed my problem of the idle dropping really bad and/or dieing when pushing in the clutch after going wot.