Murdertalon
Proven Member
- 398
- 86
- Jul 7, 2016
-
East side,
Washington
If your having thermostat issues (I feel bad for you son I got 99 problems, but temps ain't one.)
or over heating due to thermostat issues (like I was) I am adding another option for thermostat application.
Firstly after some research I would recommend using an OEM Mitsubishi thermostat because the "run of the mill" replacements (local parts store) are not reliable.
If you are having overheating issues on a 2G DSM you should look at some things:
1. Coolant cap sealing / overall cooling loop holding pressure
2. Thermostat functioning
3. Ducting (this was not my issue as I am still stock smic)
4. Efficiency of cooling loop IE: radiator performance and cooling loop capability
If you want something that performs even better than the stock DSM OEM mitsubishi part consider what I did. I used an EVO9 thermostat and cut the flange to fit into a DSM 2G housing. After researching what options I had I found that using a much lower temp thermostat was not going to give me temp range I want and could negatively effect fuel mileage. So other options.. What about a larger opening for the coolant flow? What about a thermostat that is more reliable because it has a center section that is mostly silicone? *just looked up the OEM DSM one also appears to have some sort of either gasket or silicone application going on in the center?
Alternative option is EVO9 part # MD363571 80c thermostat cut to fit a DSM.
OPENING TEMP: 80 C ± 1.5 C (176 F ± 3 F)
FULL-OPENING TEMP: 93 C (199 F)
AMOUNT OF VALVE LIFT: 9.5 mm (0.37") or more
I achieved this cut with a vice and a dremel cutting wheel just cutting a small section at a time. I used measuring calipers to make sure the size was going to work and when I was done it was within 1mm round after light filing.
My temps observed over the past 4 months show that my cooling loop on the stock radiator is more than enough to cool my car efficiently even in 100* weather. The highest temp I have seen is 210* which is where my fans kick in and then lowers the temp. I have seen zero over heating issues and my temp gauge stays in the lower half (I use a logger to see actual temps) but the gauge staying below half is new to this thermostat. After my experience with an autozone "fail safe" thermostat I wont be putting one of those in any vehicle in the future.
or over heating due to thermostat issues (like I was) I am adding another option for thermostat application.
Firstly after some research I would recommend using an OEM Mitsubishi thermostat because the "run of the mill" replacements (local parts store) are not reliable.
If you are having overheating issues on a 2G DSM you should look at some things:
1. Coolant cap sealing / overall cooling loop holding pressure
2. Thermostat functioning
3. Ducting (this was not my issue as I am still stock smic)
4. Efficiency of cooling loop IE: radiator performance and cooling loop capability
If you want something that performs even better than the stock DSM OEM mitsubishi part consider what I did. I used an EVO9 thermostat and cut the flange to fit into a DSM 2G housing. After researching what options I had I found that using a much lower temp thermostat was not going to give me temp range I want and could negatively effect fuel mileage. So other options.. What about a larger opening for the coolant flow? What about a thermostat that is more reliable because it has a center section that is mostly silicone? *just looked up the OEM DSM one also appears to have some sort of either gasket or silicone application going on in the center?
Alternative option is EVO9 part # MD363571 80c thermostat cut to fit a DSM.
OPENING TEMP: 80 C ± 1.5 C (176 F ± 3 F)
FULL-OPENING TEMP: 93 C (199 F)
AMOUNT OF VALVE LIFT: 9.5 mm (0.37") or more
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I achieved this cut with a vice and a dremel cutting wheel just cutting a small section at a time. I used measuring calipers to make sure the size was going to work and when I was done it was within 1mm round after light filing.
My temps observed over the past 4 months show that my cooling loop on the stock radiator is more than enough to cool my car efficiently even in 100* weather. The highest temp I have seen is 210* which is where my fans kick in and then lowers the temp. I have seen zero over heating issues and my temp gauge stays in the lower half (I use a logger to see actual temps) but the gauge staying below half is new to this thermostat. After my experience with an autozone "fail safe" thermostat I wont be putting one of those in any vehicle in the future.
. That leaves me some hope for the standard OEM unit. This one does seem to provide more flow through the unit which could be to some benefit it may not be necessary just another option.
