-AN Fuel System

[Dr Ronald]

So I found out that my fuel sending unit hard line is kinked, so I'm converting it to -an fittings (technically JIC fittings). I know how to do the sending unit, but how do you attach the SS hose to the hard line under the car? I think the thread on the hard line is NPT. Are there -an to NPT adapters? Also, my fiance works for a certain well known fitting manufacturer and can get me some free fittings. However, she can't get me all the fittings I need. Do you think I would be ok threading two different brands of fittings together? I know I shouldn't, but I really like the whole idea of free. Is there any sealant ( I know I can't use teflon) that I can use to prevent leaks. Maybe rubber or RTV or something.

A side question: The rubber seal around my fuel sending unit isn't doing it's job. I really hate using RTV, but I don't want to buy a new seal. Can I put some RTV on the seal to help stop the leak or do I need to buy a new one?

 

[Dr Ronald]

If you can't afford to do it right, then I don't recommend that you do it at all.

Instead, try sourcing out a replacement pump assembly that isn't kinked.

That would be more expensive that just getting the fitting I was planning on getting. I don't mean to sound like an ass but so many people respond with "If you can't afford it, don't do it." The fact of the matter is a lot of people are on a budget, and if you have to but your system one fitting at a time then why not? At least by buying the fittings and keeping the rubber hose I will be closer to the setup I want. Again I'm not trying to be an ass, I just don't think that cars/racing should be exclusive to those who have tons of money to throw into their cars.

I was looking at that fitting TJC, but that is a female metric side. I need a male. Also, I don't know what the deal is with the error at the top of the page. It says it's their old website.

 

[agentorange313]

If you can't afford to do it right, then I don't recommend that you do it at all.

Instead, try sourcing out a replacement pump assembly that isn't kinked.

Yea I would just remove the stock hose also.

I searched some more and found this fitting:
Russell Performance 670521 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com

This fitting is the one you want to use? No need to use sealant on this fitting correct?
Mitsubishi Evo/Eclipse DSM Metric to -6AN Fuel Line Adaptor [TN-DSM6I] - $24.99 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

The one that comes in the STM kit is straight cutt right?

That fitting was mentioned in a previous post link, it's the fitting he wants to use if he was connecting it to the stock hard line. We were talking about the rubber hose which has female inverted threads, just like that fitting does.

I think the STM kit has a straight cut adapter, I can not confirm this, I have never bought the kit, nor does the picture online show any adapter fitting.

 

[TrevStarr]

And no more gaskets or crush washers need replacing with AN fittings.

Since we are talking about SS hoses, I actually recommend Russell nylon braided hoses. I know its meantioned already, but they warrant another mention they rock so much. They are exactly the same in ever manner as far as strength resilience, fluid type resistance (oil, fuel, coolant). The benefits from the Nylon braided hoses is that its actually lighter hoses, and I have never pricked or stabbed myself with the hosing. Anyone thats worked with SS hosing knows it can be a b*tch to assemble and not constantly stab you fingers, the nylon hose is soft and gentle like a baby's bottom. All honesty, this hose is great, so easy to work with and also easier to cut than SS.
Russell Performance - ProClassic Hoses

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Like 99gst_Racer said, look at that bend radius. Tight

You should be a Russell salesman! Can't go wrong with their products hands down!

 

[TJCTalon]

Im confused now. I thought you had to hook up to the stock hardline. How else do you get full AN from tank to rail?

Do kits like the stm hook up to the factory hardline?

 

[agentorange313]

Im confused now. I thought you had to hook up to the stock hardline. How else do you get full AN from tank to rail?

Do kits like the stm hook up to the factory hardline?

After the fuel pump hanger feed line, there is a flare fitting, the flare fitting mates with an inverted flare end that has a short rubber hose, this allows for movement in the system so lines do not bend or break, then the hose mated with another male flared end that is a hard line that runs under your DSM.

Why not just call STM and find out what they provide in their kits? Personally I am more of a DIY guy so I rather piece the system together myself, also allows for adjustment and changes on a personal preference level.

 

[99gst_racer]

That would be more expensive that just getting the fitting I was planning on getting. I don't mean to sound like an ass but so many people respond with "If you can't afford it, don't do it." The fact of the matter is a lot of people are on a budget, and if you have to but your system one fitting at a time then why not? At least by buying the fittings and keeping the rubber hose I will be closer to the setup I want. Again I'm not trying to be an ass, I just don't think that cars/racing should be exclusive to those who have tons of money to throw into their cars.

I say that because you'll never see me recommend any shotty work, or any half-ass approach. Anything worth doing, is worth doing properly. I know all about budgets - trust me there. If I can't afford to do it properly right now, then I wait until I can afford it.

So, what's your plan here? How does this one fitting fix your kinked hardline?

 

[Dr Ronald]

I say that because you'll never see me recommend any shotty work, or any half-ass approach. Anything worth doing, is worth doing properly. I know all about budgets - trust me there. If I can't afford to do it properly right now, then I wait until I can afford it.

So, what's your plan here? How does this one fitting fix your kinked hardline?

I decided to go with the following Earl's fittings. It's kind of a modified version of the approach you suggested.

934106
9919DFH
967106

Weld fitting to 90 to adapter to stock rubber hose. I'm going to use a crush washer and/or some yellow Teflon on the adapter to seal it. A crush washer or O-ring is what Earl's recommends. Like I said, at some point I'll replace everything with SS, at which point I'll get a male to male -an adapter to replace the -an to metric I just bought.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[estoyaqui30]

There was a guy on tuners a few years back that was making the adapters to go from metric inverted flare to AN flare. I don't know it he's still around. You might be able to search on tuners. I bought 2 of them and never used them, I am planning to use one of them though. Both ends of the fitting are female, one end is -6 AN female and the other is the inverted flare female. I was going to use it to keep my factory hard line and use an Aeromotive filter.

Jason

 

[kenamond]

That Earl's fitting scares me, frankly. It's in my car, but I had to torque it tighter than I think is necessary just to get it to seal. First time I pressurized, it was leaking a bit and I was worried. I tightened it some more (scary torque) and the leak went away and has been good ever since (couple of years I think), but you don't want a fuel leak under your back seat and directly above your fuel tank. My $0.02.

If someone knows of an appropriate fitting to replace that Earl's part, I'm all ears.

 

[SHEARER_TSI]

I have used Stainless line, earls pro lite and aeroquip startlite. The startlite I have on my current car and let me tell you it's the best line I have used. The only down side is that you need special fittings. I have a killer source for aeroquip parts if you are interested. This line is insanely light and very bendable. Here is a picture of my line from the rail to the AFPR. Oh and if you use the tool made to cut the line it cuts like butter and no taping is needed.

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[Pwrtrip75]

I have used Stainless line, earls pro lite and aeroquip startlite. The startlite I have on my current car and let me tell you it's the best line I have used. The only down side is that you need special fittings. I have a killer source for aeroquip parts if you are interested. This line is insanely light and very bendable. Here is a picture of my line from the rail to the AFPR. Oh and if you use the tool made to cut the line it cuts like butter and no taping is needed.

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Ever run that at a track? I see your regulator mounted on the fire wall.. I seen this in another forum....i copy and pasted it from there.

By NHRA rules the brake lines and fuel lines cannot be mounted to the firewall.
and
IHRA rules say,

" Whenever possible, Fuel tanks and fuel lines should be located in ahead of the engine. Fuel blocks, if used, must be mounted at least 6'' forward of the flywheel bellhousing area. NO PART OF THE FUEL SYSTEM MAY BE MOUNTED ON THE FIREWALL OR OUTSIDE FRAME RAILS, fuel pressure regulater may be mounted on inner fenderwell only and at least 66' forward of the firewall"

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Ever run that at a track? I see your regulator mounted on the fire wall.. I seen this in another forum....i copy and pasted it from there.

By NHRA rules the brake lines and fuel lines cannot be mounted to the firewall.
and
IHRA rules say,

" Whenever possible, Fuel tanks and fuel lines should be located in ahead of the engine. Fuel blocks, if used, must be mounted at least 6'' forward of the flywheel bellhousing area. NO PART OF THE FUEL SYSTEM MAY BE MOUNTED ON THE FIREWALL OR OUTSIDE FRAME RAILS, fuel pressure regulater may be mounted on inner fenderwell only and at least 66' forward of the firewall"

66' forward of the firewall? So im going to mount my FPR about 62 feet in front of my car. There is next to NO area to put a FPR 66" forward of the firewall. That would basically be directly behind the head lamp.

 

[SHEARER_TSI]

The first part says 6 inches the later part says 66 feet...either way my car really only will run at the shootout or on the street. Also if that is a direct quote from the IHRA rules I think they need to learn how to spell regulator because I have no clue what a regulater is. And who besides all out drag cars mounts their fuel tank in front of the engine?

 

[99gst_racer]

Ever run that at a track? I see your regulator mounted on the fire wall.. I seen this in another forum....i copy and pasted it from there.

By NHRA rules the brake lines and fuel lines cannot be mounted to the firewall.
and
IHRA rules say,

" Whenever possible, Fuel tanks and fuel lines should be located in ahead of the engine. Fuel blocks, if used, must be mounted at least 6'' forward of the flywheel bellhousing area. NO PART OF THE FUEL SYSTEM MAY BE MOUNTED ON THE FIREWALL OR OUTSIDE FRAME RAILS, fuel pressure regulater may be mounted on inner fenderwell only and at least 66' forward of the firewall"

Technically, that is the wiper cowl where he has his regulator mounted. The actual firewall is a few inches behind that.

 

[SHEARER_TSI]

Technically, that is the wiper cowl where he has his regulator mounted. The actual firewall is a few inches behind that.

Good info.