-AN Fuel System

[Dr Ronald]

So I found out that my fuel sending unit hard line is kinked, so I'm converting it to -an fittings (technically JIC fittings). I know how to do the sending unit, but how do you attach the SS hose to the hard line under the car? I think the thread on the hard line is NPT. Are there -an to NPT adapters? Also, my fiance works for a certain well known fitting manufacturer and can get me some free fittings. However, she can't get me all the fittings I need. Do you think I would be ok threading two different brands of fittings together? I know I shouldn't, but I really like the whole idea of free. Is there any sealant ( I know I can't use teflon) that I can use to prevent leaks. Maybe rubber or RTV or something.

A side question: The rubber seal around my fuel sending unit isn't doing it's job. I really hate using RTV, but I don't want to buy a new seal. Can I put some RTV on the seal to help stop the leak or do I need to buy a new one?

 

[Bud92gsx]

Ahh when I add a fmic, and re route my oil coolers I'm not gonna worry about price..Although we all try to go the cheapest route..That's the dsmer code..

 

[T is for TURBO]

Ahh when I add a fmic, and re route my oil coolers I'm not gonna worry about price..Although we all try to go the cheapest route..That's the dsmer code..

Just so you are aware of what I mean by "price".

Thats just for one end.

Also, I have dealt with one A1 fitting on my car, for my oil return line. It leaks. So I can't say much good, since my I'm 0-1 with them. Only thing nice is they are cheaper.

I can't say anything about Russel brand as I've never looked, but they are pretty pricey as well.

I'll look into JIC fittings soon.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Now I know it's 18 bux for one fitting..But it's really something that if your gonna upgrade..Your gonna do it once, and do it right..And then you should never have to worry about it again..

 

[agentorange313]

Now I know it's 18 bux for one fitting..But it's really something that if your gonna upgrade..Your gonna do it once, and do it right..And then you should never have to worry about it again..

And no more gaskets or crush washers need replacing with AN fittings.

Since we are talking about SS hoses, I actually recommend Russell nylon braided hoses. I know its meantioned already, but they warrant another mention they rock so much. They are exactly the same in ever manner as far as strength resilience, fluid type resistance (oil, fuel, coolant). The benefits from the Nylon braided hoses is that its actually lighter hoses, and I have never pricked or stabbed myself with the hosing. Anyone thats worked with SS hosing knows it can be a b*tch to assemble and not constantly stab you fingers, the nylon hose is soft and gentle like a baby's bottom. All honesty, this hose is great, so easy to work with and also easier to cut than SS.
Russell Performance - ProClassic Hoses

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Like 99gst_Racer said, look at that bend radius. Tight

 

[Bud92gsx]

No more gaskets or crush washers you say..Why wasn't this mentioned earlier..

Or a better question,why havn't I looked into AN fitings before...Is there an emotocon for shooting yourself in the head..Wait this one works

 

[agentorange313]

No more gaskets or crush washers you say..Why wasn't this mentioned earlier..

Or a better question,why havn't I looked into AN fitings before...Is there an emotocon for shooting yourself in the head..Wait this one works

I might have over exaggerated when I said "no more" gaskets/crush washers, definitely less. For example, if you use AN fittings to feed your turbo, you might use a crush washer for the fitting that converts metric to AN, but that fitting should not be removed in the future, only the AN line should be tightened and loosened, allowing for fast removal of a line. As you must know, these are unlike our stock systems with a bunch of banjo fittings and crush washers that need/should to be replaced every time they are loosened, thus the beauty of AN fittings. I think the ease of using AN lines offsets the price of the fittings and etc.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Like when you forget to have extra crush washers on hand..And then have a leak because you forgot to buy new crush washers..Been there..I always forget those on my list of stuff to do before startup too..

But one crush washer and the rest is ease of use, removal, installation..I think I can deal with that..

 

[estoyaqui30]

Have these hoses changed at all? I did the whole Russell braided SS hose about 6 or 7 years ago and the car ended up smelling like one big rolling fuel leak....it was awful. So, I called Russell and they told me that the can't be used for "pump gas" ?! So I ended up pulling it all out and sold it. I ran a -6 hose for both supply and return. The guy at Russell said the additives that are in pump gas will allow vapors to permeate through the inner lining. I would love to try again at some point and run a -8 supply and -6 return. I was thinking of Russell aluminum hard line.

Jason

 

[Bud92gsx]

Ummm what..Really..No suppesed to be used for pump gas..What kind of crap is that..

 

[agentorange313]

From Russel Website:
Nylon Hose
RUSSELL PERFORMANCE PROCLASSIC BLACK HOSE
For racers and performance enthusiasts who want high quality plumbing that is lighter and easier to assemble than traditional braided steel hose, new Russell ProClassic Hose is the perfect choice. It features a lightweight nylon fiber outer braid over a durable rubber core with a maximum pressure rating of 350 psi. It is capable of handling nearly every plumbing task on your car and is safe to use with fuel, oil, or antifreeze.

RUSSELL PERFORMANCE PEX & PRORACE HOSE:

RUSSELL PERFORMANCE PEX & PRORACE HOSES OFFER:
Stainless steel covering for a more attractive installation (Abrasion resistant)
Temperature range of -40° F to +350° F for a wider variety of uses and routing
Compatible with all hydrocarbon and alcohol-based fuels, lubricants and additives
Available in a wide range of AN sizes to meet your needs
Use with Full Flow, Full Flow Swivel and Tube Seal hose ends

Now I want to know also. I think I will make a call tomorrow to find out.


edit: hahaha look at the Proflex, it has "R-O-F-L"



STM uses the same hose for their fuel filter to rail and pump to rail kits. I wonder if anyone who has used there kits had the same problems since it Russell hosing. Maybe STM can chime in.

 

[99gst_racer]

Have these hoses changed at all? I did the whole Russell braided SS hose about 6 or 7 years ago and the car ended up smelling like one big rolling fuel leak....it was awful. So, I called Russell and they told me that the can't be used for "pump gas" ?! So I ended up pulling it all out and sold it. I ran a -6 hose for both supply and return. The guy at Russell said the additives that are in pump gas will allow vapors to permeate through the inner lining. I would love to try again at some point and run a -8 supply and -6 return. I was thinking of Russell aluminum hard line.

Jason

Even SS braided will permeate vapors to some extent. It's completely normal, and there's no side effects aside from occasionally smelling fuel. There's a thread about that here, as well as a response from a rep at Aeroquip.

That hose is definitely compatible with pump gas though.

edit: hahaha look at the Proflex has "R-O-F-L"

 

[2slow4now]

I use the russell pro classic and have it from tank to rail and back. I just used the stock line clips and made a shelf that the line is strapped on and is protected. If the cars in the garage for a few days closed up you can smell the fuel some but I like it.

 

[estoyaqui30]

yeah, I thought that it was a little annoying, because they said that it was good for all fuels. I had spent hundreds of dollars between the Russell braided stainless line, the assorted fittings and adaptors and the Aeromotive fuel filter. I ended up selling it for about a hundred to one of the shop guys at at TurboTrix. I would have been okay if it was slight, but it was like having an open bucket of gas inside the car. I would like to try it again at some point and maybe use the Russell aluminum hard tubing.

Jason

 

[agentorange313]

I've been researching this problem with the smell of gas emminating and seeping through braided hosing.

The only solution that I could find is to use teflon lined hosing if you are staying with braided lines, or hard lines.

Great article I found on a Porsche Forum:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1101_performance_fuel_hoses/viewall.html

 

[TJCTalon]

Paul, what type of screws are you using for the fuel line brackets?

 

[99gst_racer]

They're just regular self tapping screws.

 

[Slow91Laser]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/411679-1g-fwd-fuel-upgrades.html#post152694134

Those are the thread pitches that match the hard lines at the fuel pump hanger and where the fuel line meets the filter. Remember they are flared lines.

!

Beat me to it!

 

[Dr Ronald]

So what is the thread size for the soft hose that runs from the pump to the hard line on a 2g awd? Hopefully it's NPT..

 

[agentorange313]

So what is the thread size for the soft hose that runs from the pump to the hard line on a 2g awd? Hopefully it's NPT..

The soft hose should have an female inverted flare at both ends with the thread pitch 14mm x 1.5.

 

[Dr Ronald]

So would this Earl's fitting work to go from the hose to -an? 9919BFH

 

[agentorange313]

So would this Earl's fitting work to go from the hose to -an? 9919BFH

Yes and no.

The fitting will screw in and is the same thread pitch. The problems occurs when the fitting is in place and sealing it. The inverted flare design of the hose end creates a seal with the mating end. Just how AN fittings for without using thread sealant or teflon tape to seal. I have heard of people using thread sealant and teflon tape to seal the metric fitting in place, but you have to double check if the sealant can be used with pump gas.

I think this fitting would work better:
Russell Performance 648070 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Anyone else have input on this?

 

[99gst_racer]

Agreed. It will thread in, but there's nothing to "seal" because that metic adapter isn't an inverted flare adapter. Straight cut threads aren't designed to seal, and I know I would never trust thread sealant to seal fuel on straight cut threads.

I see no reason in retaining that factory rubber hose anyway...
Eliminate it and be done with it.

I think this fitting would work better:
Russell Performance 648070 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com

That's a power steering fitting and probably won't work either.

 

[Dr Ronald]

I don't have the money to spend of a bunch of SS hose and fittings right now. I will eventually go to SS or even Pro-Lite, but I just need my car back right now.

So Do you think I should go with that Earl's fitting and a crush washer or O ring, or should I go with that P/S fitting from Summit. The Earl's fitting is a bit cheaper and I can but all my fitting from one place and save on shipping. Obviously I would use yellow Teflon with the Earl's fitting too.

 

[99gst_racer]

If you can't afford to do it right, then I don't recommend that you do it at all.

Instead, try sourcing out a replacement pump assembly that isn't kinked.

 

[TJCTalon]

This fitting is the one you want to use? No need to use sealant on this fitting correct?
Mitsubishi Evo/Eclipse DSM Metric to -6AN Fuel Line Adaptor [TN-DSM6I] - $24.99 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

The one that comes in the STM kit is straight cutt right?