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Alternator Issues

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'95EclipseGSX

10+ Year Contributor
86
0
Mar 22, 2010
Aptos, California
I replaced the water pipe o-ring today and as I was putting things back together I messed the alternator up. I was tightening a bolt on the bracket that holds the oil dip-stick up and my ratchet handle made a tiny hole in red plastic, cone-shaped piece on the alternator that protrudes towards the passenger side of the car. When this happened I heard a zapping sound throughout the engine bay for a few milliseconds. After starting the car up I noticed that the speakers, dome light, power seat, windows, and fans do not work. The light that tells if the doors are open does not work either. After driving the car 30 feet the battery light, the handbrake light and the radiator light went on and were not quite as bright as normal and flickered a tiny bit. Under hard acceleration the lights would go off. I have read that those lights mean the alternator is bad and that maybe under heavy acceleration the alternator is working a little bit. I also tested the battery for volts and the volts held steady at 12.5 weather the car was on or off, which hints that the alternator is not working. I am going to take the alternator off and bring it to someone to try to fix it but I am wondering if all the symptoms I have described show that it is JUST the alternator that's broken or if I could have messed up some other, more troublesome electrics. None of the fuses are broken. All the outside lights and the horn works and I am thinking that when the computers sense that the alternator is out they turn off all electronics that aren't necessary for driving so that you can still get off the road. So hopefully that explains all the random stuff that isn't working but I'm sure someone on these forums could shed some light on my problem and hopefully clear up my question of weather or not I broke more parts than just my alternator. Now I know: ALWAYS disconnect the battery before doing any work in the engine bay... :notgood:
 
Did you check or replace your alternator fuse in the engine bay? i tapped the alternator a while back and she sparked and the fuse popped. Shes gonna work but only half the electronics work in the car and she will act like its not charging. If you're not sure if its blown (although it has a window on it) just take a test light to it and check both sides of the fuse post.


PS- Its a good idea anytime you work on your car to disconnect the positive cable on the battery so nothing gets fried.
 
I agree with checking the alternator fuse first. Same thing happened to me and the electrical system went haywire. Weird symptoms when that alternator fuse blows. It's a 100A fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
 
If you need to replace it be cautious about the part store brand alternators. I just went through 3 Autozone alternators in a week and a half due to them failing. 2 were tested BNIB at the store as well.

As everyone else said start looking through all of your fuses as you definitely blew something if your interior lights no longer work after grounding the power wire of your alternator.
 
Darn, I still have the problem. This time everything works but the 3 dash lights (radiator, handbrake and battery) light up right when I first start the car. When I rev the engine above 3,000 RPM the lights go off. I am testing the battery as I do this and sometimes the volts rise to 14.5 where they should be and other times they stay still at 12.5 and sometimes even start to lower to 12. So it seems to be very inconsistent. No fuses are blown. I hope I didn't fry my ECU but maybe I broke my alternator. I was wondering how I check the alternator. I have read that you unplug the wire harness with the 3 wires and put a volt checker in there? I am not understanding the details though and would appreciate it if someone could better explain how this is done.
 
It's not too hard to remove the alternator. You can take it to most auto parts stores and they will test it for you for free.
 
OK I replaced the alternator today. It only took 2 and a half hours which is not bad for my first time. I didn't have to take the radiator off although it wouldn't have been too hard if I did. The good thing is that now my car works!! It is finally 100% fixed and supposedly good for 30,000 miles. I will be happy if I get a year in though haha. As some of you know my water pipe o-ring was leaking for a few months and it would leak onto my alternator so maybe that had something to do with the failure too. It never completely died but it would only charge at certain times.
 
The same thing happened to my car over the winter. I replaced some seals and spilled some oil on the alternator. A week or two later the same thing happened. The Lights went crazy and so on. I replaced it with a used one about a year ago and it's been good ever since.
 
Please help Im having the same problems but no help, I just replace my alt and batt. I replace the 100 amp fuse. Still my windows, interior lights and my headlight is still coming on for no reason. I checked and replace all blown fuses. Any ideal Please Help. These problems is making me crazy.
 
so far i've read 9 different threads about headlights not turning off... NONE of them have been resolved ><
 
They may have been resolved. Many people never post what fixed their problem no matter how many times they're asked/told to. Tech forum rules (DSM Forums - FAQ: Site Rules & Guidelines) specify: "If you ask a question and get the problem solved, be sure to reply to your own thread and let everyone know what solved it.". Unforunately many people take but don't give back.

To solve your headlights staying on, first remove headlight relay to see effect. Then get some wiring diagrams and start checking voltages in the headlight circuit.

Other tips: If you have very weird symptoms (eg. headlights never go off, or turning on/off one device causes another device to turn on/off), check for open grounds on the devices affected (also any isolation diodes that are an open or short circuit in both directions). Without the device ground the current will find another way to ground, often through another unrelated device which can cause strange happenings! Also check all fuses as sometimes a device may be getting power through a different fuse when its one is blown. If the problem involves an exterior light (headlight, taillight, turn signal, brake light) check to see if any dual filament bulbs have their filaments shorted together (or a single filament bulb is where a dual one should be). This can cause back feeding the other circuit (eg. taillights on backfeeds brake circuit cancelling cruise control). Just removing the bulb will identify this situation (weirdness stops).
 
so far i've read 9 different threads about headlights not turning off... NONE of them have been resolved ><
That's cool- I see about 1000 posts per week from guys who still fail to read the rules regarding proper grammar, spelling, and capitalization when posting in our tech forums.
 
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