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Alternator issues.

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milrite007

Probationary Member
9
0
Mar 30, 2008
senoia, Georgia
NEWB my ass :) Guess I need to post and help out a little in here so I can get outta the kiddie pool :D Any how my old Mitsu Alt went tits up, but I had an old POS aftermarket laying around. Of course it's causing all kinds of issues. The Stealership has a 75 amp for a decent price. Anyone bought one lately? Are they quality, or have they gone to crap like everything else you buy now days? :hmm:
 
I never bought a altenator from the stealership, autozone with a lifetime warranty, things break eventurally mines run for years with no problems.
 
Have boughten autozone alts before with no issues. If you're not looking to spend a lot and want a cheap one buy a good used one from the classifieds.
 
IF they were that bad they wouldn't sell them but im never buying a oem one no need to. What do you have to lose with a auto store one.
 
NEWB my ass :) Guess I need to post and help out a little in here so I can get outta the kiddie pool :D Any how my old Mitsu Alt went tits up, but I had an old POS aftermarket laying around. Of course it's causing all kinds of issues. The Stealership has a 75 amp for a decent price. Anyone bought one lately? Are they quality, or have they gone to crap like everything else you buy now days? :hmm:

What type of issues?
I have had my alternator (pepboys) and have had no issues for the last 2+ years.
 
IF they were that bad they wouldn't sell them but im never buying a oem one no need to. What do you have to lose with a auto store one.

But don't you know the reason people's alternators are dying is 110% NOT because of the fact they have power steering and oil leaks, or even because they have a hot ass turbo/manifold right by it but because of the fact that they didn't run out and get one for three times as much with no warranty at all.

Because you know alternators LOVE heat, water and oils all over them.
 
Im always careful when messing with my power steering fluid it will damage the altenator, I use my oem heat shield too for this setup.
 
But don't you know the reason people's alternators are dying is 110% NOT because of the fact they have power steering and oil leaks, or even because they have a hot ass turbo/manifold right by it but because of the fact that they didn't run out and get one for three times as much with no warranty at all.

Because you know alternators LOVE heat, water and oils all over them.

Mine is just old and tired. I have A/C, amp, and so on. I just want a reliable alt that I won't have to replaced in 2 yrs. I mean damn, my old one was a 1990 Mitsu alt and just now took a shit. Not the car, heat, pwr steering (don't have any) just ####ing old like me.. I would just like to find that same reliability. The ####ing question was has anyone tried a OEM alt from the dealer. That's all. If you can't answer that question then don't ####ing answer. Not necessarily speaking to the gent I'm quoting, because he is correct but to folks who won't answer the question that was asked.
 
I would go though one every 3 weeks from autozone, only thing possible is the heat bigger o2 and 3in dp. I went with a gm alternator but rubbed against my oil filter cause catostraphic falure. My old alternator had the diode flashing lights, but I put that one back in (oem) after like 3 years as a temp till I got one shipped, and It's been working perfect, so I'm thinking you can't go wrong with oem, mine came back to life. If you want the autozone route I have an auto alt (10 amps more that the manuel) completely fresh they shipped directly from california Ill sell you for less than you'll get it there, give you my phone # too so you have the warranty. I don't need it, have the gm for a back up as of now.

The gm alt from the basic one is 105 amp, though you can get them up to 160? It would be good for running extra electronics IE. Amps, hids, turbo timers, gauges, etc. If you haven't heard of this swap there are plenty of write ups here on the fourms.
 
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I would go though one every 3 weeks from autozone, only thing possible is the heat bigger o2 and 3in dp. I went with a gm alternator but rubbed against my oil filter cause catostraphic falure. My old alternator had the diode flashing lights, but I put that one back in (oem) after like 3 years as a temp till I got one shipped, and It's been working perfect, so I'm thinking you can't go wrong with oem, mine came back to life. If you want the autozone route I have an auto alt (10 amps more that the manuel) completely fresh they shipped directly from california Ill sell you for less than you'll get it there, give you my phone # too so you have the warranty. I don't need it, have the gm for a back up as of now.

The gm alt from the basic one is 105 amp, though you can get them up to 160? It would be good for running extra electronics IE. Amps, hids, turbo timers, gauges, etc. If you haven't heard of this swap there are plenty of write ups here on the fourms.

Thanks Brother! That would be the info I'm looking for. I remember seeing the gm swap now that you say that. Will be checking that out. I will let you know about the one you have. I have been thinking about the auto alt but figured I would search for info 1st.
 
Saturn units are tough as hell. I had three autozones within 6 months FYI.

So I went to a junkyard and paid $40 for an old POS Saturn alt with a shot bearing. Hooked it up and been great ever since. Before I secured the oil dipstick, it shot out and left the alt oil soaked. Still works. Sitting next to my Megan stainless 02 housing. Still works.

I ended up making a real stock style adjustment bracket for it and modifying the harness so it has both plugs, and upgrading the stock output cables (stock cables drop 0.5V)
 
Thanks Brother! That would be the info I'm looking for. I remember seeing the gm swap now that you say that. Will be checking that out. I will let you know about the one you have. I have been thinking about the auto alt but figured I would search for info 1st.

Yes sir, I went with a 105 one because the bigger amp requires thicker gauge wires and when I was having issues with the one I had before I upgraded the two 8 ga wires to a 4ga and didnt wanna redo them all again with 2ga. theres a place called motorcityreman they make a swap one that is self igniting and one requires one wire to be hooked up to send power of the battery. Had good voltage in all condition.
 
^ Just an FYI, 4ga is roughly what two 8ga wires equal in conductor size. Only difference is in the age of each cable. Old stock cables drop 0.5V between 50-110 amps and the new 4ga drops 0.2V between 50-110 amps. I would have gone bigger to keep it under .1V drop, but wanted to fit the cable back into the original harness...
 
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