2G All lights out, headlights, tail lights, and gauge cluster lights

[colerongo]

What seems to be out of nowhere, all of my lights on my car stopped working. The brake lights are the only ones that seem to still work. Since there is a seperate fuse for the tails and headlights, and interior lights, where do these lights all share common wiring? Are they all on the same relay? How could they all go out at once? My stereo still works fine, power windows, locks, and seats work fine. I will start testing with my multimeter tomorrow on my day off, just thought i'd ask to see if anyone has more knowledge on this wiring and where in the system they are all connected/related. The only thing i could think of that would cut power to all of these different lights is the switch on the steering column. does this sound reasonable?

 

[gofer]

What seems to be out of nowhere, all of my lights on my car stopped working. The brake lights are the only ones that seem to still work. Since there is a seperate fuse for the tails and headlights, and interior lights, where do these lights all share common wiring? Are they all on the same relay? How could they all go out at once? My stereo still works fine, power windows, locks, and seats work fine. I will start testing with my multimeter tomorrow on my day off, just thought i'd ask to see if anyone has more knowledge on this wiring and where in the system they are all connected/related. The only thing i could think of that would cut power to all of these different lights is the switch on the steering column. does this sound reasonable?

Your running lights, tail lights, and interior lights are all on the same circuit labled "tail lamps" and located in the fuse box under the hood. Your brake lights & blinkers will still work, you just won't have any running lights. Your headlights are on their own circuit and also have a fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Check the fuses first to make sure neither are blown, even if they pass the visual check make sure they aren't shorted internally using a multimeter.

If both fuses are good to go start pulling your bulbs... You could possibly have a shorted bulb thats causing all of your lights to go out. Pull all 6 tail light bulbs, 2 blinker bulbs, & 2 of the front sidemarker bulbs. Once you do that turn the parking lights on and check the amperage going to that "tail lamp" fuse, should right at 15A. If it is then shut off the parking lights replace 1 bulb, turn the lights back on and check the amperage at the fuse location again. Keep repeating this until all the bulbs back or AFTER you install a bulb and the multimeter's showing a short (infinite) reading on the multimeter then you found your headache.

If worse comes to worse please DO NOT put a penny in the fuse location to keep it from blowing. I'd like to assume you know better but if you do a quick search on these forums you'll see people mentioning it.

 

[colerongo]

I found the problem... Even though the fuse for the Headlight circuit appeared to be in functional condition, There was a split in the filament. I replaced the fuse and everything works again. I guess the lesson learned was not to assume that a fuse is good just because you cannot see a visible break in it. I found it interesting that both the headlight and tailight circuits were cut off when just the headlight fuse blew. Does the power run first through this fuse and then into the tailight fuse?

 

[gofer]

I found the problem... Does the power run first through this fuse and then into the tailight fuse?

That is correct, the voltage goes through your headlamp fuse first.

I have had a similar scenario of a fuse blowing but still passing the visual inspection. Mine was on my fuel pump rewire so my car wouldn't start, I thought the rewire was bad. I even pulled the fuel pump and replaced it thinking it went bad... I wish someone would have told me to make 100% sure its not the fuse, even if it does pass visual.

I'm glad to hear its fixed.

 

[colerongo]

Thank you gofer! Now my GSX can hit the streets at night once again. wahahahahaha!!!

 

[alice]

Your running lights, tail lights, and interior lights are all on the same circuit labled "tail lamps" and located in the fuse box under the hood. Your brake lights & blinkers will still work, you just won't have any running lights. Your headlights are on their own circuit and also have a fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Check the fuses first to make sure neither are blown, even if they pass the visual check make sure they aren't shorted internally using a multimeter.

If both fuses are good to go start pulling your bulbs... You could possibly have a shorted bulb thats causing all of your lights to go out. Pull all 6 tail light bulbs, 2 blinker bulbs, & 2 of the front sidemarker bulbs. Once you do that turn the parking lights on and check the amperage going to that "tail lamp" fuse, should right at 15A. If it is then shut off the parking lights replace 1 bulb, turn the lights back on and check the amperage at the fuse location again. Keep repeating this until all the bulbs back or AFTER you install a bulb and the multimeter's showing a short (infinite) reading on the multimeter then you found your headache.

If worse comes to worse please DO NOT put a penny in the fuse location to keep it from blowing. I'd like to assume you know better but if you do a quick search on these forums you'll see people mentioning it.

Using this method, what happens if I get power to the fuse and tested it with a test light but using a multimeter and a AMP tester I get 0 amps? Pulled all of the bulbs and replaced all of the bulbs. The cluster lights never came on with all of the bulbs pulled at all.

 

[datbmac]

Did you put the ammeter in series with the circuit you are testing?

 

[alice]

Did you put the ammeter in series with the circuit you are testing?

Yes I did. Its basically a blade connection into the fuse slot then you put the fuse in the ampmeter and turn it on to read the amps.

Right here: Electronic Specialties 306B - 30 Amp Fuse Buddy Tester - ATC Blade

 

[datbmac]

Is there power on both sides of the fuse connector?

 

[lastshark08]

The easiest way to check that is to make sure there is voltage on both sides of the fuse. Use a test light to check that. Saves some time at least in my opinion.

 

[hoby0316]

It's almost always a fuse.

 

[alice]

Is there power on both sides of the fuse connector?

Yes there is. There is power on both sides of the fuse when it's plugged it but not when the fuse is not plugged in. Only one side has power I assume, obviously, that the fuse carries the power across itself and back into the wiring.

The easiest way to check that is to make sure there is voltage on both sides of the fuse. Use a test light to check that. Saves some time at least in my opinion.

There is voltage on both sides of the fuse indeed as checked with a test light. This basically checks the functionality of the fuse correct? I know the fuse isn't blown for sure. I have about 30 15amp fuses that I have used here and all of them are good. This is driving me crazy!!

 

[Palmetto_TSi]

Using this method, what happens if I get power to the fuse and tested it with a test light but using a multimeter and a AMP tester I get 0 amps? Pulled all of the bulbs and replaced all of the bulbs. The cluster lights never came on with all of the bulbs pulled at all.

If you have the headlights on, and you read 0 amps through the fuse location, it sounds like your bulbs have blown in the instrument cluster. Sounds odd, but it can happen. If it's not that, it could be a loose or broken wire between the fuse and the cluster.

Doat!!!! I just read where you already replaced the bulbs. Well, you can try making a jumper from the fuse to the cluster. That will tell you if it's the wire, or something else. If it is the wire, you can replace it and SOLDER it in place, then cover it with shrink tubing.

 

[BigRSnail95]

Could have a break in a wire inside the insulation somewhere. Easiest thing to do is what palmetto said. I once chased a wire for 14 hours to find a break inside the insulation right under the fuse box. You have got to love wiring.

 

[alice]

If you have the headlights on, and you read 0 amps through the fuse location, it sounds like your bulbs have blown in the instrument cluster. Sounds odd, but it can happen. If it's not that, it could be a loose or broken wire between the fuse and the cluster.

Doat!!!! I just read where you already replaced the bulbs. Well, you can try making a jumper from the fuse to the cluster. That will tell you if it's the wire, or something else. If it is the wire, you can replace it and SOLDER it in place, then cover it with shrink tubing.

I didn't replace all of the bulbs in the cluster at all. I can't imagine that all the bulbs in the cluster could have blown at once though. Maybe I will check that out. But everything is out on the whole circuit.

 

[datbmac]

Does your radio light up when you cut the lights on?

 

[tyram615]

im having the same problem all my headlights taillights and dash lights shut off at once checked ALL fuses under the hood and under the dash still nothing only thing i can think of is the headlight switch itself?

 

[JAX2Ganey]

I had the same problem on my 2g. No lights or dash lights. It was my headlight switch.(the switch on the steering column.)