After certain RPM, car loses most of its horsepower

[Enjoi577]

I have a 98 GSX with a few issues.

UNRELATED ISSUE first>>>>>>

The other day, I was on my way to pick up a 16g turbo. I revved up the engine at a stop light, dropped the clutch, and shot off like a bad mother f$!%*er. Next thing I know, my speedometer doesnt work and Iv lost my cruise control. Now, the speedometer will fluctuate AFTER I let off the gas, it'll go from 0-100, then to 40-60 then some other random number. This makes me think the sensor is bad (I have yet to check) or I thought I remember reading about some plastic piece in the transmission that reads speed and if that breaks, the speedometer stops working. Not the big issue, but just wondering if anyone has thoughts.

************THE ISSUE>>>>

First: I knew there was a leak in my clutch line.

Ok, I'm stopped at a toll-booth and suddenly there's no pressure on my clutch pedal. So, I got out and saw the slave cylinder was empty- filled it up with DOT3. Tried to drive away, car wont go in gear, the pedal is stuck to the floor, there's still no pressure. I'm talking like, as soon as my shoe touches it, it swings back to the floor and I have to use my other foot to get underneath and pull it back up. So, I'm like EFF, getting a little upset because I cant move my car away from the toll-booth and am starting a jam. I'm revving the engine, trying to force it into any gear I can (at this point, I smell the clutch burning), the car is screaming, the gears are grinding, and by some miracle of god...it shifts into second. The car speeds off, I'm thinking "YES"....then I hit a red light. Same issue, same resolve, and eventually got it into a parking lot then towed somewhere to have the cylinders replaced.

Now, Ill drive the car, second gear grinds every single time no matter what. Further more, the car has lost a SIGNIFICANT amount of horsepower after a certain speed/RPM. I have yet to note what the speed is but I will tomorrow. It shifts into every gear (besides second) no problem, but it just wont get up to speed as fast as it should.

The only mod is a 3inch Apexi NI exhaust from the turbo back with a 3inch DP. The car ran even better when I put that on, but after this whole cylinder mess, its the slowest car on the road.

Im thinking of replacing the spark plugs and checking the MAF, but thats really all I can think of. Im pretty new to all of this. Im also having a guy look at the transmission in the next week or two, but if anyone has ideas on how to solve the acceleration issue (I know the gears will probably need to be replaced because 2nd is screwd now) cheap and easily, thatd be awesome.

Going to have it looked at by "pros" figured Id see if there are any pros here that could offer a possible solution.

 

[renovatdkitchen]

Did you bleed that clutch line after filling the master? Doesn't matter now that its all replaced and working though.

Secondly, I'd check the timing to make sure everything lines up properly.

Did the clutch fluid leak on anything?
Are all the vacuum lines in good shape?

For the tranny, does 4th grind as well or just second?

 

[Enjoi577]

Did you bleed that clutch line after filling the master? Doesn't matter now that its all replaced and working though.

Secondly, I'd check the timing to make sure everything lines up properly.

Did the clutch fluid leak on anything?
Are all the vacuum lines in good shape?

For the tranny, does 4th grind as well or just second?

Im not exactly sure if they did, Im just going to hope they were smart enough to do bleed the line.

Um....newb questions, and i can certainly look it up, but, uh...how do I check the timing, and the timing of what? Im not sure if the vaccum lines are good, Ill try and find a diagram pointing out where they are, then compare them.

Only second gear grinds, none of the others do.

 

[mitsubishikid]

this will help you understand the timing setup, if your running a 6 bolt motor.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...l-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

2g 7 bolt timing belt [courtesy of the vfaq site]
Timing Belt VFAQ

He means the timing of the engine, maybe you skipped timing or its off from a faulty t belt install.

 

[TX D22A]

Sounds like you jacked up some synchros trying to force it into gear, at least that's my bet on the grind.

As far as losing power, you said you smelled burning clutch. When the power drops out, do the RPM's jump, or other signs of a slipping clutch?

 

[renovatdkitchen]

I'd assume they did. But when you added the brake fluid, you should have bled the line, for future reference.

I ppersonally tear the engine apart on all DSM's that I buy for peace of mind, so the way I check is by setting the timing myself. I don't know if you can do it without removing the lower cover, but you can search that. If it's timing that jumped a tooth, it's usually a cam, so you could first try to just see if the top two timing marks line up on the cam gears.

Has aanything else been done to the car? Did the shop replace anything other than the master and slave cylinders?

I'm no tranny expert in the slightest, but if it's just 2nd, then I'd assume it's probably the syncros.

 

[Enjoi577]

Im reading through the links mitsubishikid said, but I think it would be the timing too. Because second gear is grinding every time, it would make sense to replace that gear right? And while im replacing the second gear i may as well replace all the gears? Hell, If im in the tranny like that...i may as well just replace everything...right? I think im out of my league..

 

[mitsubishikid]

You might also want to check the transmission gear oil for any metal flakes, or foreign particles.
get as much out as you can before driving it, or it will spread to all the other gears.

 

[Enjoi577]

I cant just "check the timing" I have to pull the whole engine out dont I?

I'd assume they did. But when you added the brake fluid, you should have bled the line, for future reference.

I ppersonally tear the engine apart on all DSM's that I buy for peace of mind, so the way I check is by setting the timing myself. I don't know if you can do it without removing the lower cover, but you can search that. If it's timing that jumped a tooth, it's usually a cam, so you could first try to just see if the top two timing marks line up on the cam gears.

Has aanything else been done to the car? Did the shop replace anything other than the master and slave cylinders?

I'm no tranny expert in the slightest, but if it's just 2nd, then I'd assume it's probably the syncros.

Nothing else has been done to the car, only replaced the cylinders and I put the exhaust on.

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

Pull your engine to check timing? NO
And dude you should expect to have to buy a new clutch and get your trans fixed cause you wouldnt just push the car to the side of the road shit what made you think smashing it into gear was a good idea? Guaranteed you busted the synchro.

http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchros


could have bent something in your transmission as well because you forced it, like the input shaft.

 

[renovatdkitchen]

No, you dont have to pull the engine. But check the timing, make sure the belt is tight and all.

You could look into picking up a used transmission if its not your clutch pedal adjustment. They are cheap for our cars.

 

[Enjoi577]

Well, currently the state of Illinois says I can't drive again for a couple of months, so fear of police "offering help" caused my reaction. I'm aware I'll probably have to get a new clutch as well. Would it be cheaper to get a stage 1 rebuilt tranny than to have a shop install new synchros?

I'd like to have the car at 350whp.... Would getting a jacks tranny be over-kill? A used one would be fine?

 

[renovatdkitchen]

Just go with a used trans. Stock transmissions can hold that no problem.

Also, do obey laws.

 

[Enjoi577]

So I should be on the phone with some junkyards then, correct? As my engine only has 98k miles on, will a trans with more than 100k or 125k miles perform and hold up (depending on condition) to what I want?

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

So I should be on the phone with some junkyards then, correct? As my engine only has 98k miles on, will a trans with more than 100k or 125k miles perform and hold up (depending on condition) to what I want?

if you can afford it check out getting a jacks then your trans has 0miles. he just redid the prices.

 

[Nuzzi]

OP, you should be driving a Hyundai or something that doesn't matter when you destroy it.

 

[Enjoi577]

if you can afford it check out getting a jacks then your trans has 0miles. he just redid the prices.

I just checked, I think I might have to go with a used one for now

OP, you should be driving a Hyundai or something that doesn't matter when you destroy it.

Things break, thats how you learn.

As I am pretty sure (thanks to you guys) my synchros are all messed up and my second gear is grinding, I'm thinking of buying either a Jacks Transmission Stage 1.0 gear cluster rebuild or the "Kit B Economy" rebuild kit with a new second gear, and having someone around me install it. Or show me how, on a side note, why is it so hard to find a mechanic that would be willing to teach me? I would pay him less or more, just be there watching, learning, and handing him tools!

If its decided to go along with one of these two tranny rebuilds, I may as well put the ACT 2100 w/street disk & XACT flywheel at the same time right? I'v heard that you should NEVER by a used clutch, but...am I being ignorant by assuming other DSM'ers selling parts on this website AREN'T out to screw someone out of their money and they are simply either upgrading or losing interest, not that the clutch doesnt work? I dont think I can afford all of these new parts...

Trying to do this the least costly way, as I'm paying for school right now. I just want to get this build started already, but every time I have a plan something goes wrong! The life of a DSM'er.... Although, I don't think its fair to you guys to call myself one of the crew, just yet .

 

[Enjoi577]

Just got an email from Jacks Transmission explaining my problem and they said its actually probably NOT the synchros, but a busted sensor a leak somewhere. So..i guess that changes things. Ill have to take a longer look at the car tomorrow when Im off work, hopfully this will be easier than i thought.

Well, driving up a hill on the way to work this morning, all of a sudden NO hp and I smell this lovely burning rubber smell...mmmmm. So my clutch is done. Hopefully that's all that needs to be replaced...

For a hp goal of 350whp, you guys think an ACT2100 clutch with a fandanza flywheel is good or overkill?

 

[mitsubishikid]

For your goals Id opt for at least a stage 2 clutch, but the 2100 is a good setup.

Make sure you get the oem style throw out bearing mitsubishi part # md722744
nachi part # rb-0402

And if you want to overkill the whole setup, get your hands on a competition clutch forged clutch fork part number FRK-5048
more info on the forged clutch fork in a post linked below.
.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ws/397268-competition-clutch-forged-fork.html

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

Just got an email from Jacks Transmission explaining my problem and they said its actually probably NOT the synchros, but a busted sensor a leak somewhere. So..i guess that changes things. Ill have to take a longer look at the car tomorrow when Im off work, hopfully this will be easier than i thought.

Well, driving up a hill on the way to work this morning, all of a sudden NO hp and I smell this lovely burning rubber smell...mmmmm. So my clutch is done. Hopefully that's all that needs to be replaced...

For a hp goal of 350whp, you guys think an ACT2100 clutch with a fandanza flywheel is good or overkill?

Naw you busted ## transmission dude you smashed it into gear without a clutch I dont know how you explained it to jacks but it would be cheaper to ship the trans to them if you dont know how to install it already, rather then get a kit.
Did you even bother to follow the clutch drag guide or you still driving around destroying the trans even more?

The guys right about you buying the wrong car though, these cars like to be treated RIGHT not treated like a honda, But if you learn from your mistakes then your on the right track. Please never act like a tweeker again though, a cop cant come and ID you without probable cause... So push the car over to the side of the road next time, and get a tow or fix the problem... Anyways, when your car gets impounded give me a call and ill come pick it up.

 

[Enjoi577]

For your goals Id opt for at least a stage 2 clutch, but the 2100 is a good setup.

Make sure you get the oem style throw out bearing mitsubishi part # md722744
nachi part # rb-0402

And if you want to overkill the whole setup, get your hands on a competition clutch forged clutch fork part number FRK-5048
more info on the forged clutch fork in a post linked below.
.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ws/397268-competition-clutch-forged-fork.html

I'll look into the stage 2, maybe it's better to just spend the money now so I won't have to later you know?

Naw you busted ## transmission dude you smashed it into gear without a clutch I dont know how you explained it to jacks but it would be cheaper to ship the trans to them if you dont know how to install it already, rather then get a kit.
Did you even bother to follow the clutch drag guide or you still driving around destroying the trans even more?

The guys right about you buying the wrong car though, these cars like to be treated RIGHT not treated like a honda, But if you learn from your mistakes then your on the right track. Please never act like a tweeker again though, a cop cant come and ID you without probable cause... So push the car over to the side of the road next time, and get a tow or fix the problem... Anyways, when your car gets impounded give me a call and ill come pick it up.

I think I might just send them the gear cluster. I explained it to them, the same I explained it here. And nope, I didn't get a chance to read it. I don't treat it like a honda, I certainly didn't beat on it when it drove right. I definitely won't be tweeking anymore. She'll probably sit for a bit while I get her back up to speed anyway, especially since it's getting warmer out. I think I'll have a buddy come take a look at it in person and give me an opinion, but otherwise I'd like to tackle the gear cluster myself, getting it out at least. These last three weeks have been absolutely horrible, I'm not even a little bit surprised the clutch went out today. Oh well, live and learn. I'm going to get it fixed right though.

As for the OEM bearing, I will certainly use that, thank you.

 

[mitsubishikid]

As for the OEM bearing, I will certainly use that, thank you.[/QUOTE]

you're welcome

you can order the oem throw out bearing from carquest, just make sure you give them that nachi japan made part number, what your looking for on the throw out bearing is for it to have the inner plastic surface, and don't use the metal ones
[they tend to wear out the input shaft sleeve].

also you might want to consider [later on] getting a stainless steel braided clutch line from the master to the slave cylinder.

so far i have had no issues with my clutch after swapping in the all stainless line.

Also if you think you can tackle the transmission, all the more power to you, our cars gear boxes look intimidating on the surface, but all you really need is a factory service manual [cant stress it enough], a clean uncluttered work area, and all of the tools needed for the tear down, and obviously the rebuild.
I talked to a guy a while back who owned a 2g who rebuilt his trans, he bought all his parts from jacks transmissions, and then did the job himself, and in a few days he had it running again, he said what really helped him was, he took lots of digital pictures of the unit as he took it apart so he could get it all back the same way it came apart.

hope this info helps you out.

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

You can take the cluster out yourself but it has to be specially balanced and I would only do the trans if you have the manual and time to research on here.
Goodluck and treat the dsm right.