AEM UEGO issue replacing narrow band

[Black_Bullet]

Yea I will figure out the best place to stick it. I just know theres no much room before the flex when you consider how close the DP is to the oil pan and the Tcase and block. And Idont want the o2 sensor facing downwards towards the ground because it could get ripped out by road debris.
Ill post pics whenever its done though, Im just going to take it to a muffler shop wednesday and have it done. Hopefully it wont still be too close to the tubro.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Well Im having a little issue... Maybe a day after I installed my new tubular o2 housing and my external gate ive noticed that the car has been acting weird, the check engine light comes on and stays on ( never ever did before ) and the car is getting knock in idle and low rpm and my fuel trims are going crazy. When I put the new o2 housing I installed the stock o2 sensor back in btw.

So then I was thinking maybe my stock o2 sensor went bad, I put the wideband back in ( o2housing)
and it was doing the same thing. I unplugged the battery for a while and then the check engine light went away and it seemed to clear up a bit... Drove it for about 7 miles and then the problem came right back, CEL back on, and picking up a bunch of knock at idle, and partial throttle. ( Closed loop.)

I couldnt figure out what it is, but now I have an assumption, Im noticing my wideband wont stay in a set mode, it keeps jumping from p4- to p2 and since my ecu is getting the o2 signal from the wideband ( white wire running to the ecu pin ) its probably making the ecu panic and not kno what the hell is going on, thus causing me to have crazy fuel trims and knock and throw a cel.Even though it did the same thing w/ the stock o2 back in, I think because I left the WBO2 plugged in with white wire to ecu, maybe it was still trying to get a signal off there...
This is my best guess.

Idk why the wbo2 is changing mode on its own, even as i try to set it. I am going to pull it out and disconnect the white wire for the UEGO that goes to the ecu and put stock o2 sensor back in and see if it discontinues. If so then i will try to get my money back for this AEM UEGO and just get a INnovative wideband or something; and I will make sure I weld a bung in for the WBO2 so that I can keep my narrow band o2, and not have to try to use the UEGO signalling to the ecu for narrow band input. I just need to keep it simple...

Thats my best guess as to my cars current issue; if anyone else has any ideas or other thoughts please post them.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Update,

I got the bung welded for this thing finally.
Some of you might not agree with its location but I just wanted it before the flex, and
I didnt want to remove the DP, so the exhaust shop put it in the easiest location they could get to while the Dp was still on the car; so whatever that will have to work, at any rate, its better than being in the o2housing like before...

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[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

The narrowband sensor outputs a voltage to the ECU between 0.00v and 1v, with a voltage of 0.50 being the stoichometric point of the fuel (AFR -14.7:1).

During closed loop operation, the ECU looks at the voltage of the O2 sensor and based on the feedback, increases or decreases the IDC in an attempt to hit a voltage of 0.50v. The entire point of all this is to provide you with the maximum gas mileage.

Anyway, using the P3 setting, the UEGO outputs a voltage of 0.41v when the AFR is 14.7:1, not 0.50v as the OEM narrowband would. This results in what the ECU sees as a lean condition. In an attempt to correct the false lean condition, the ECU increases the STFT and LTFT in an attempt to get the voltage back to 0.50. Basically, it's going to drop your fuel economy because the ECU is injecting more fuel than needed.



I would see if Jeff can take the calibration of the UEGO and program the ECU's response to voltage so it matches the curve. That would solve the problem.

You can edit the ECU's code to read the 0-5v WB output directly. You have to change the target voltage and set up that 2.5v is lean and 2.4v is rich. That way when the voltage is lower than 2.4v it will lean it out and if it's higher than 2.5v will richen it up. It's roughly 5 code changes and then you wire the analog output wire to pin 4 of the ECU. Works great!! Now you can unplug the stock NB O2 sensor.

Only problem I've seen with this so far is that my logger is calibrated to graph 0-1v. Therefore, it will not show up on the graph but will still log the voltage. Which is great!! Now I have a loggable WB02 sensor voltage that is actually functional to the ECU.

 

[toofast82]

Like above, 1gs can code the ecu for wideband output! I've never tried it in the o2 housing, but I do know that most wideband companies do prefer 15-18" away.

 

[spyderturbo007]

You can edit the ECU's code to read the 0-5v WB output directly.

Have you done this with your car? I could have sworn that the front O2 sensor input at the ECU was capped at 1.24v. I remember reading one of Steve's posts awhile ago where he outlined the max voltage. I'll let you know what I find.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Have you done this with your car? I could have sworn that the front O2 sensor input at the ECU was capped at 1.24v. I remember reading one of Steve's posts awhile ago where he outlined the max voltage. I'll let you know what I find.

Yes I have... My logger seems to pick up the voltage just fine. So I would assume that the ECU can utilize it. All the trims seem to update like they should. And the WBO2 hovers around 14.7 cycling from about 13.9 to 15.5.

I used the code from here: DSM-ECU #3267

 

[spyderturbo007]

It looks like I was 1/2 right.

It looks like the 1.24v max only applies to 2g models because of the OBD-II spec. I copied this from a reply by Mike, the owner of digital tuning, who wrote the PocketLogger programs.

"It would appear the best bet is to connect the 0-1v output (not the 0-5v) to
the rear o2 input. Keep in mind that if you replace the rear o2 w/ the WB
you need to have no cat.

The reason you need the 0-1volt output instead of the 0-5v is because the
way OBDII is spec'd out. It only allows us to read a little over a volt
even though I'm sure the input could handle 5v, like the 1g DSMs do.

The output isn't linear, but it's pretty close. It's a lot more linear than
the 0-5v output. The downside is that the 0-5v output may be a little more
accurate since you are taking the same scale and spreading it across 5 volts
instead of 1 volt. But for all intents, it will work fine."

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

It looks like I was 1/2 right.

It looks like the 1.24v max only applies to 2g models because of the OBD-II spec. I copied this from a reply by Mike, the owner of digital tuning, who wrote the PocketLogger programs.

Ahh... Right on...