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adding wheel spacers to rear only

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ITSME4G63

15+ Year Contributor
3,427
2
Feb 6, 2004
chicago, Illinois
Hey guys,

With teh 2gb gsx rims, the front tires on the car seem to match up with the bodyline, but the back ones still see to be inside the fender, I was thinking of putting spacer in the rear only so they match up with the back, but was wondering if it would have an effect on the awd somehow? Would it throw it out of whack, I was doubting it since the rear has lsd only and the front doesnt, but would like to make sure. Thanks :talon:
 
It won't affect the diffs at all. It will be dependant on how thick of a spacer you go as to what problems you may or may not have. The two main problems would be lack of stud length and wheel bearing stress.

A local did that here and I was thinking of doing the same.
 
boostedinaz said:
It won't affect the diffs at all. It will be dependant on how thick of a spacer you go as to what problems you may or may not have. The two main problems would be lack of stud length and wheel bearing stress.

A local did that here and I was thinking of doing the same.


Well the spacer I was considering already have studs sticking out of them, they are aluminum spacers with steel studs

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5x11...42614QQitemZ8067889144QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

but in 15mm form. But it wont affect the driveline then?
 
I don't think you find adapters like those less than 25mm or so. It doesn't leave enough room for the recessed nuts.
 
Using a 5mm spacer will help and won't have any negative effects. Don't go any larger than 5mm on the stock studs though. It's more likely caused by excessive rear camber, which you can fix by doing the Home Depot (racing) spacer mod. Measure your front and rear camber, you probably have more rear camber, especially if lowered, but the car will handle better with more front camber and less rear camber.

EDIT: OOPS, didnt see you had a 1g :(
 
eclipsegsx1736 said:
Using a 5mm spacer will help and won't have any negative effects. Don't go any larger than 5mm on the stock studs though. It's more likely caused by excessive rear camber, which you can fix by doing the Home Depot (racing) spacer mod. Measure your front and rear camber, you probably have more rear camber, especially if lowered, but the car will handle better with more front camber and less rear camber.

Depending on the wheel, even a 5mm spacer may be too much for stock studs. And don't forget he has a 1g.
 
I've been running 3000gt 16x8 wheels with spacers in the rear about 3mm thick for about a year without a single problem. I needed the spacers because the rears made contact with the lower control arm.
 
if that spacer bolts up to the car's studs, then the weight is bearing down on the studs exactly where it's supposed to be. then it shouldn't matter if the spacer is 1 inch thick or 25.4 mm. At worst that will give you neutral offset, so I don't think it will damage the bearings over time.
 
Incan said:
if that spacer bolts up to the car's studs, then the weight is bearing down on the studs exactly where it's supposed to be. then it shouldn't matter if the spacer is 1 inch thick or 25.4 mm. At worst that will give you neutral offset, so I don't think it will damage the bearings over time.
You seem to be making a couple different points here but neither is very clear? Are you suggesting the studs should bear the weight of the car? What is “neutral” offset?
 
Incan said:
then the weight is bearing down on the studs exactly where it's supposed to be.

The weight of the vehicle is carried by the center of the wheel or hub, not the studs. Ever have any issues getting your wheels off now and then becuase they are frozen to the hub?
 
Morphius said:
The weight of the vehicle is carried by the center of the wheel or hub, not the studs.
If you are claiming that all of the weight is carried through the hub-flange-to-centerbore interface, then that's nonsense. (My snows are not hub-centric, for example.) If you are only saying that the weight is not carried by shear on the studs, then OK, because that's between 30 and 70% correct. The main job of the studs is to hold the wheel to the rotor and the rotor to the hub. A large part of the shear force required to keep the car up operates through those flat surfaces. Other shear force does go through the studs. And, if you happen to have tight hub-centric wheels (with or without rings to make it tight), then some shear force goes through the centerbore. Basically, anything in contact with anything else helps to carry the load.

- Jtoby
 
Whats the big deal anyway if you need to put a small spacer to make a wheel fit your app. better I say do it. people always over complicate things this is not that hard I've been running spacers on the rear of my 1g for about 35k with no problems. I've got some auto-x on this setup as well as some hard street driving with no problems i.e. no stud brakeage, no stud bending, no stud stripping. I also torque my lugs everytime to 80 ftlbs. with a torque wrench.
 
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