adding negative camber to stock ride height

[tpi_roc]

Most camber kits/bolts address adding positive camber to compensate for a lower ride height. Do the eibach/ingalls bolt kits add negative as well as positive or only add positive camber?

 

[tpi_roc]

Just bought an ingalls 2° bolt kit, guess we'll find out.


Anybody have any comments or experience about/with this product?

 

[UCSLugRacerX]

You DO NOT want positive camber on your front or rear wheels. Your handling will be worse, plus you'll have increased tire wear. If you do succeed in adding more negative camber while the car is at static ride height, you could end up with excessive negative camber during suspension compression while cornering, and you might end up riding on the INSIDE coner of the outside tires.
Although, with alot of negative camber during a heavy turn, you might have a surplus of negative camber, and MAYBE letting you take turns even harder to flatten the tires' contact patch.
Although, your cornering power will be primarily decided by your tires.

 

[tpi_roc]

You must have misread my post, sorry for the confusion.

My point is that when you lower a car, you end up with excessive negative camber, say 3° for example. So you buy a camber kit, to ADD camber, to get back in range, say 1°-2°. Although still negative, you've added positive camber. I have stock ride height, so maybe 0-1° camber, I want MORE negative cambetr, 2°-2.5° so I need to SUBTRACT camber.

Kits on its way, we'll know soon enough.

 

[UCSLugRacerX]

You must have misread my post, sorry for the confusion.

My point is that when you lower a car, you end up with excessive negative camber, say 3° for example. So you buy a camber kit, to ADD camber, to get back in range, say 1°-2°. Although still negative, you've added positive camber. I have stock ride height, so maybe 0-1° camber, I want MORE negative cambetr, 2°-2.5° so I need to SUBTRACT camber.

Kits on its way, we'll know soon enough.

No, I did not misread your post. I'll try to explain again.

Let's say a stock car has:

0 degrees camber while sitting still.
While turning hard, it has -5 degrees camber.

(Now we give more negative camber the car, at static ride height.)

-2.5 degrees camber while sitting still
While turning hard, it has -7.5 degrees camber.

As you can see, your TOTAL negative camber upon load transfer/ suspension compression has changed to -7.5 degrees camber. If you're still taking the same turns, with the same steer angle, and same entry speed, then you will have excessive camber. The tire will now be riding on its' inside edge while cornering hard, thus resulting in less traction.

 

[tpi_roc]

Can't be any less traction than rolling over the outside edge of the tire currently


these cars are seriously camber and caster defficient, thats a generally accepted dsm truism. There's no question that my car is in need of some negative camber, ask my tires.

 

[UCSLugRacerX]

Also, with excessive front negative camber: When you brake hard from say--60 mph, the weight transfers from the rear of the car to the front, and loads the front two tires. At the same time, this weight transfer compresses your spring/shock assembly, and the nose of the car dives, thus creating front wheel negative camber. The negative camber created by the nose-dive from hard braking, decreases the contact patch of the tires needed to brake.

So by increasing overall negative camber too much, upon full suspension compression, your braking power will suffer.

 

[pneumo]

According to the DSM tech manual the 1G front end has a very slight ammount of positive camber, stock. It's set up like that so the car behaves safely (read: understeer) when an unexperienced driver tries to corner too fast.

The front end geometry allows very little camber change throughout the suspensions travel. Even with the suspension fully compressed there is less than a degree of negative camber in the front end. Raising the front end higher than stock ( inside wheel in a turn) gives some positive camber change.

Eccentric camber bolts will allow both positive and negative camber adjustment.

 

[tpi_roc]

Finally some information worth the time it took to post. Thanks pneumo.


On a 1g the only real front end tuning lies in static camber and toe. Not much to be done with caster, not much with bump camber. This is precisely why the platform isn't so up to the task of cornering. However I'm not the least bit worried about -2° static camber being "Too much" thats just rediculous.

 

[ldstang50]

Caster is camber in a turn and is a part in suspension tunign you do not want to deal with, it can and will throw off your alignment. I'm doing a suspesion and alignment on my buddy's lowered turbo laser next week, i'll let you know what i find out. I know as far as stock toe is only adjustable on the DSMs. I dont' remember seeing an eccentric washer to adjust camber.
I have another buddy who has a camber that we have to install. It should be able to add camber to the excess negative that he has from lowereing his car. This too I will let you know