A few quick questions

[XiKeiyaZI]

So I just got my car running from a 2 year dead period... and It was a task. A full 1.8 - 2.0 swap... wiring issues, fuel pump issues, Installing the flywheel and tranny, and finally getting it to start.

Note, I did this alone in a few months, not knowing the difference between a crank and a cam, by using tuners...;D You guys are great!

Now I'm down to the tedious stuff.

The Fuel pump went out in the car shortly after I got it started. I had, ironically, accidentally received a 2.0 pump a month or so ago. With a bit of modifying to the assembly that holds the fuel pump in place, was able to get this issues resolved. NOTE : My question here is... I put a bit of gas in the tank and took it for a test drive... everything was fine (But loud as the exhaust stops at the CAT) except on my return trip. When I took a left turn, the car lost power for a moment as if it were lacking gas... sputtered, and then gained power and started pulling again. Can this be blamed on the fuel level shifting when I took that turn?

Next would be my interior lights. I changed out the ECU to Engine harness as noted in the swap checklist... but the one thing that I noticed is that My brake, parking, blinkers, head, and interior lights do not work. We wired the Head, brake, and parking manually (with an easy setup so we could swap it back to as it was before) so as they work. The headlights run off of a switch, and the brakes work with the pedal as they should. Thing is, I have no power to my interior save for my gauges. Did I need to swap interior harness as well? I was told no... but... I've read several things.

Still is the brake issue. No matter how many times I have bled the brakes... I STILL have to pump the brakes at least 1 half pump for them to start engaging. There is no leaking fluid anywhere... so I'm stumped...=/ Any suggestions?

Last is my idling. The Thermo-Valve below the thermostat housing is gone, so I looked through a few things, found it is not NEEDED, and since I didn't have access to one I followed a diagram on how to bypass it with the vacuum tubes. When I start the car (which takes about 20 seconds) it idles at about 1.5k - 2k for about 15 minutes and then will gradually decline until it hits about 900-1k.

Any suggestions or thoughts would be very helpful as I'm now a New DSM owner... whom has a running car! xD Thanks!

 

[400hp93talon]

The cutting out issue most likely was you where low and the pump went dry for a second or your throttle positioning sensor glitched because when they do it feels like its running out of fuel. Im not to sure on the interior harness I would believe they would be the same but something is not connected somewhere. What all did you change when you did the harness swap anything with the fuse box? Lastly I think your booster could possibly be leaking internally slowly but its a possibility check under the carpet on the driver side for fluid anywhere on the firewall.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

The cutting out issue most likely was you where low and the pump went dry for a second or your throttle positioning sensor glitched because when they do it feels like its running out of fuel. Im not to sure on the interior harness I would believe they would be the same but something is not connected somewhere. What all did you change when you did the harness swap anything with the fuse box? Lastly I think your booster could possibly be leaking internally slowly but its a possibility check under the carpet on the driver side for fluid anywhere on the firewall.

When I did the swap, the only thing that was changed was the ECU, the small golden box next to it (forget the name) and the ECU to engine harness. All fuses and such were left untouched as I never found anything about swapping them. I've taken the dash out 4 times (Which now takes all of 5 minutes) and searched for missed grounds and broken wires but can find nothing. So I'm just not sure on that. So far, I'm only getting power to anything that I manually run myself.

Something that I neglected to mention was my charging problem. I bought a brand new battery, strong as hell actually. For the past 3 weeks it's been cranking the car fine, but I could feel a gradual decrease in it's cranking power every few days. Yesterday the battery completely died. I boosted the car and let it run for a bit. After a little while it bogged down like it was losing power and about died. I tapped the gas... and noticed that the BAT light on my gauge cluster will dim out at higher RPMs. If the car is idling when it starts (which is about 1k+) the BAT light stays pretty dim but never goes away. But the lower the car idles, the brighter it gets. After a I reved it, it ran fine for about 3 more minutes then started to do the same thing.

So BEFORE I rip the alternator out (the water pump was a complete b%@^! to get in) could there be any other explanation? Bad connection somewhere? I want to say that a wire looks pretty bad on the alternator, but I can't really recall due to all of the wires I've been messing with. Could a weak connection be causing a shitty charge factor? My guess is that if so, when at higher RPMs, it provides juuuust enough power for the battery to stay at the same charge it was directly after it cranked the car. Just my guess though.

Thanks! And I'll be checking my floorboard when I get home!!

 

[Benshooter]

There could be a lot of reasons your charging system isn't holding up. Check ALL your connections and cables and do the 1g alternator circuit test in the FAQ section. Alternators aren't hard to change out, takes about 10-15 minutes.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Problem resolved.

Bad wiring from the Alternator. I should have posted this sooner but completely forgot to update this thread. >.< Thanks guys!

 

[crazyracerz42]

i have charging issue i replaced the battery and when you run it for like 20 min, then when you shutt it off i hear something clicking by injectors any help??

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

That's normal.

As for the charging, make sure that you aren't putting your Power from the Alternator to your ground. That's what was wrong with mine. Also make sure your fuses are good as well as the connection for the small circular clip on the alternator itself.