2G A/C system not working

[cswindel]

Alright electrical nerds I need to be graced with you assistance as I am no good with electrical.

Current situation:
- A/C is not blowing cold air although the system has been charged recently without the system actually pulling in r-134 because well it dont work haha
- I dont have any prior knowledge of whether it worked or not before or after my teardown of the car
- As a side note I am running OHM harnesses throughout the engine bay and interior and running ECMLink v3

Current untested areas and possible theories:
- A/C compressor is dead and I have not ran 12v power to it such that I can test if the clutch engages or not
- Seeing if there is a setting in ECMLink that I am missing since the a/c and rad fan both kick on when signal for rad fan to kick on gets pushed out
- Thermo sensor is poop but havent checked and the wiring diagrams confuse me on where it is physically located behind the glove box and there arent really any pictures when i look.
- ACCU is poop but havent checked and not sure which wires in the connector to check but havent dug into that area yet because its a pain to reach

Steps I have taken thus far:
- Checked continuity from ECU pin 22 to A/C compressor relay in fuse box (Good continuity)
- With key in ON position and engine not running, I have voltage going to the a/c fan (connector A-39), Dual pressure switch (A-47), and the A/C compressor (A-95)
- With the engine running I checked for voltage at the same connectors and nothing concerning
- With the engine running and a/c switch active I checked voltage again and still nothing concerning. A/C compressor ground showed grounding too.
- With the engine running, I jumped/bypassed the dual pressure switch and no result came about from that
- As mentioned prior, I noticed that the a/c fan and rad fan kicked on at the same time when the signal for the rad fan got passed through the circuit (I dont know if this is normal or not but hey 2 fans is better than 1).

Just wanting to see what your inputs are with this matter before I start going down unnecessary rabbit holes without much guidance (because I will get lost, sad, and confused and it might all occur simultaneously). I believe I have covered the majority of what I have done and assessed to get this thread rolling at least

 

[Vladimir]

Box looks good. 4.5 ohms is way to much resistance, should be about 0 to 0.2 at the most. We need good ground. You have a probe to ground the black wires?

Actually, wait. Are they both solid black? Or one of them is black and white? If it's black and whitee it's a different wire

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Also before I ask you to to give power to that green and orange wire on the black box( that you verified is at 0v when the a/c is requested). I need you to verify that that wire has no excessive resistance between one of the 2 pins on the plug going to the dual pressure switch. We don't know which pin on that plug, because it's been changed by OHM racing, but one of the 2 pins on that plug while being disconnected, should have good continuity with no resistance to that Green and orange on the black box) if not, we have an open there.

 

[cswindel]

Both appear to be solid black

Also before I ask you to to give power to that green and orange wire on the black box( that you verified is at 0v when the a/c is requested). I need you to verify that that wire has no excessive resistance between one of the 2 pins on the plug going to the dual pressure switch. We don't know which pin on that plug, because it's been changed by OHM racing, but one of the 2 pins on that plug while being disconnected, should have good continuity with no resistance to that Green and orange on the black box) if not, we have an open there.

If i remember we did that test earlier and none of the pins had continuity. I tested both pins on the dual pressure switch connector and all the pins on both black box connectors and got nothing

 

[Vladimir]

If i remember we did that test earlier and none of the pins had continuity. I tested both pins on the dual pressure switch connector and all the pins on both black box connectors and got nothing

Ok. That means we have a missing part of the circuit, ohm actually had to have made that connection happen since the plug on the dual pressure switch is changed by then...but... That still doesn't resolve why we have no power coming out on that G-O wire out of the black box.

We have to dig further, around the black box first. Because we know you are getting 12v from your a/c selector switches, and we have verified that your fin thermo sensor is working and has good resistance value and continuity to the black black box. What I don't like is that there is 4.5 ohms of resistance on the ground wire/wires connector, this indicates possible corrosion.

Can you provide a quality ground to those solid black, via power probe or just spice in and wire directly to good chassis ground ?

There is also one more switch that we have to verify. It is located on your a/c compressor. It's a temperature switch that should also be going through your black box diagrams yell different colors from what your plug looks like. But it should yellow green pin to yellow black or yellow green to yellow red. It's hard for me to verify and it's a big pain in the arse to crawl up under the car to check for continuity to verify which wires.

 

[cswindel]

Ok. That means we have a missing part of the circuit, ohm actually had to have made that connection happen since the plug on the dual pressure switch is changed by then...but... That still doesn't resolve why we have no power coming out on that G-O wire out of the black box.

We have to dig further, around the black box first. Because we know you are getting 12v from your a/c selector switches, and we have verified that your fin thermo sensor is working and has good resistance value and continuity to the black black box. What I don't like is that there is 4.5 ohms of resistance on the ground wire/wires connector, this indicates possible corrosion.

Can you provide a quality ground to those solid black, via power probe or just spice in and wire directly to good chassis ground ?

There is also one more switch that we have to verify. It is located on your a/c compressor. It's a temperature switch that should also be going through your black box diagrams yell different colors from what your plug looks like. But it should yellow green pin to yellow black or yellow green to yellow red. It's hard for me to verify and it's a big pain in the arse to crawl up under the car to check for continuity to verify which wires.

Yeah i mean if they are both grounds I can definitely do that. Ill just splice them together to a single common chassis ground wire

That temp switch isnt part of the 3 pin connector is it?

 

[Vladimir]

If they are both solid black, diagrams say solid black is ground. Also take a picture of that connector on the female side where it connects to the black box

 

[cswindel]

How's that

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[Vladimir]

Do you have a power probe?

 

[cswindel]

Do you have a power probe?

Unfortunately not

 

[Vladimir]

Make a temporary spice to ground the black to good chassis ground

 

[cswindel]

Temporary? How do I go about that? Just back probe the connector and ground it

 

[Vladimir]

I would splice into the wires or you can cut them and put crimp connector to lead to good ground. Just leave enough room to turn them back to factor, if necessary, Do it further from the plug since you have no power probe, we need good ground, we cant have 4.5 ohms

 

[cswindel]

Just gave this a go

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[Vladimir]

You made a splice and used an alligator, booster wire to ground?

Connect everything back with the ground fixed. Turn on all the controls for a/c and see if we are getting 12v at the G-O wire now.