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2G A/C not cold

Posted by krummel21, Jul 19, 2006

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  1. krummel21

    krummel21 Proven Member

    Joined May 4, 2004
    Charles City, Iowa
    My a/c hasn't been cold it's cool but doesn't ever get cold, I drive 15 min to work and doesn't seem to actually get cold until the end of that drive if I'm lucky. I refilled the coolan. Only used half of it, wen tot the red on the gauge. What should I do next to find the problem?


    317  0

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 2G DSM
  2. 4BangR-x

    4BangR-x Proven Member

    Joined Sep 12, 2005
    Sandwich, Illinois
    Well, it can be a couple things. But first what do you mean you refilled the coolant, do you mean engine coolant or freon?
    I also suggest taking it to a a/c shop for a free diagnosis.

    Anyway, it could be your freon level, or it could be the compressor.

    A/c Compressors go bad due mostly to a lack of lubrication. Check around the compressor for any leaks, as that would be a sure sign of what the problem is.
  3. MMM

    MMM Proven Member

    Joined Jul 3, 2006
    Midwest, Illinois
    Make sure your compressor is turning when you switch on your AC. There is a sensor that will shutdown your compressor when pressures in the line get too high to prevent the compressor from blowing. This sensor couild be bad. You condesor could be bad/clogged up with dirt and crap, the evaporator could be bad/clogged.

    209  0

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM
  4. Defiant

    Defiant DSM Wiseman

    Joined Jan 13, 2003
    glorious Galt, California
    What's the sight glass look like?
    Sounds like it's time to pay the pros.

    3K  0

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 2G DSM
  5. Jagged Antler

    Jagged Antler Probationary Member

    Joined Jun 24, 2005
    Hastings, Minnesota
    Go out and buy a recharge kit and like 2 cans of R-134a. I recently charged my talons up, if you get a kit it will come with a guage, hook up this guage to your low side labled (L) line of your AC and have your car running with AC on high for it to take a reading. Depending on your charge kit check to see if its low, chances are its probably low and just needs a charge. Take off your guage and hook it up to a can of R-134a and pierce the can while holding it upside down with the car running still, youll feel the can get cold as the liquid refrigerant enters your lines. Put your guage back on after your done and check again, repeat if necessary. Do not overcharge your AC or else you will get lowred efficiency or flood your compresser with liquid refrigerant and bend the reed valves rendering your compresser useless. I did mine in like 10 min, but I'm also on my 2nd year of HVAC/R schooling. You can easily do this yourself and save a lot of money. And by the way, your A/C should get cool with in the first minute of operation if its in good working order and charged properly. Hope that helps.
  6. TurboFever

    TurboFever Proven Member

    Joined Aug 1, 2005
    Paterson, New Jersey
    hah!! Free yea right. Everywhere around here charges about $80 to diagnose.
  7. krummel21

    krummel21 Proven Member

    Joined May 4, 2004
    Charles City, Iowa
    When we put the coolant in we filled it with the can upside up not upside down. Would this be a problem?

    Is there anyway to empty the lines and add new refrigerant?

    We installed it where there is a light green cap on the line. How would I know if this is the low line?

    Can I check the lines and then install the can while the gauge is connected to the lines or do I need to take it off?


    317  0

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 2G DSM
  8. turbo8765

    turbo8765 Proven Member

    Joined Nov 28, 2004
    low country, South Carolina
    You SHOULD NOT charge the a/c with the can upside down. You were correct to hold the can upright. If you turn it upside down, then liquid refridgerant may be drawn into the compressor. Liquid cannot be compressed. Compressors don't like things that cannot be compressed.

    The cheap autoparts store low side only gauges are crap. If you are going to use gauges, buy an actual manifold gauge set so you can look at both high and low side pressures.

    The fittings are engineered to make it basically impossible to hook the can of refrigerant to the high pressure side.

    Check to make sure both your fans are operating as intended.

    I would actually measure the discharge temps with a thermometer.

    Most of the time your problem is related to a low charge due to a slow leak.
  9. Jagged Antler

    Jagged Antler Probationary Member

    Joined Jun 24, 2005
    Hastings, Minnesota
    Compressers can take liquid, just not much of it. One can cant get sucked in quick enough to do any damage, HVAC techs charge systems with liquid all the time, but they can throttle it in with their manifold gauges. You should be fine to hold it upside down becasue the liquid refrigerant is coming in right after your compresser and has time to vaporize.
  10. TSIMonsteR

    TSIMonsteR Proven Member

    Joined Nov 23, 2003
    HP, North Carolina
    Before doing anything drastic, have you checked you A/C Fan? or made sure your condensor is getting enough air? I know this sounds stupid, but you'd be suprised at what kind of difference it can make!

    2K  1

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    324 whp · 256 lb/ft · 2G DSM
  11. Jagged Antler

    Jagged Antler Probationary Member

    Joined Jun 24, 2005
    Hastings, Minnesota
    Hes right, a dirty condenser/evaporator can lead to very poor performance of an A/C system, your condesner rejects heat from the system, so if if its clogged it cant expel heat very well, which in turn wont allow the system to cool efficeinty. If you do need to clean it its going to be kind of a bi*** to get it out, you need to spray it with a garden hose straight on against the way the air flow would go, and be careful not to bend any fins.
  12. paack

    paack Probationary Member

    Joined Sep 22, 2009
    Lake Forest, California
    Does the evaporator have valve or is it just an orifice?Mine has Refrigerant, and everything runs, it just does not get cold, is that what a clog would do?

    My site glass came with an aftermarket receiver (Accumulator). It is a small glass circle, you can see your liquid refrigerant through it.

    GRAVEDIGGER Proven Member

    Joined Nov 26, 2007
    Uniontown, Ohio
    Pretty sure it has a thermal expansion valve (TXV) and yes that will cause it to not get cold.

    2K  18

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    12.149 @ 115.940 · 1G DSM
  14. TurkF26

    TurkF26 Supporting VIP

    Joined Sep 6, 2003
    vacaville, California
    Being in the bodyshop industry, your best option is to take it to an AC Shop. They will run a vacuum on the whole sytem for 30 minutes or so to check for leaks and also the proper amount of vacuum being pulled. If your AC system has a very light vacuum, or none at all, then its because of a leak somewhere in the system. Most of the time its because of a small leak and you eventually run out of Freon.

    I do NOT recommend filling your system with the stupid refill cans from the store. You need to have a vacuum on the system to draw the correct amount of freon into the system. Every car has a specific amount of freon, and a range, of how much you can put into the car. The sticker is usually on the underside of the hood or on the radiator support.

    Most AC shops will test the compressor and clutch before drawing any freon to make sure the AC system in your vehicle is working correctly before messing with freon amounts. Make sure that when you turn the AC on that you hear the cluch engage with the "click" sound. If you dont have a clicking sound, then you either dont have enough freon in the lines or the compressor / clutch is not working correctly.

    Hope this helps!
  15. ervin00

    ervin00 Proven Member

    Joined Nov 27, 2013
    Pinon Hills, California
    Just take it to a shop that has a machine that can check for leaks and stop wasting your money on cans. When I did mine it cost $69 and that included the test and adding refrigerant. What I am trying to say is that there might be something wrong with your system and they will find it for you, mine was a bad o-ring. Ha

    1K  0

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    manual · 2G DSM

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

    Joined Nov 14, 2013
    Independence, Kansas
    I just looked and didn't catch all of this but how bout the orifice tube. If its clogged with anything it will effect it like Not getting cool enough.Eventualy it will quit getting cold. If its plugged then place it. Just remember if it is clooged it came fom the compressor more than likely. Trying to help out is all. If it quits holding a charge then I would agree to change the compressor orings amd see if oy holds a vacuum. IF so then suck it down and refill it. By the way, ac dye is a good thing touse when looking for the leaks with a good black/uv light.

    Street Build 5K  29

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    14.74 @ 117.04 · 1G DSM

    1K  14

    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 1G DSM

    793  18

    1967 Chevrolet Camaro RS
    rwd · automatic · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 1K  7

    1998 Eagle Talon TSi
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 6K  14  25

    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    13.620 @ 108.460 · 1G DSM
  17. Lou98GSX

    Lou98GSX Proven Member

    Joined Mar 13, 2004
    Carmel, New York
    first thing to do is turn your a/c on and listen for your compressor to kick on . when it goes on look at your sight glass and see if there are any air bubbles . if there is then the system is low on freon . if you don't see any air bubbles then go back in the car and move the blend air temp lever back and forth real fast and try to listen for the ddor to move back and forth . if you hear that then the cable is still connected and the door is moving . next make sure you have that little lever by the center ducks on the blue side for a/c . if all that is ok and your a/c is still warm then i would advise to bring it to a shop . i also wan't to add is was your system ever opened cause if it was then you will have to get it evacuated so it can take a full charge.
  18. fastfred

    fastfred Proven Member

    Joined Feb 23, 2014
    carrollton, Ohio
    Id Take it to a shop.Any reputable shop will evac, vac and leak test it before adding the correct Amount of refrigerant and pag oil. Usually the oil will have dye in it to check for leaks with a black light. Just adding cans isnt the way to go and make sure you never use the stop leak crap. It could be any number of things fan, clog, leaks etc.

    Street Build 6K  0

    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    503 whp · 441 lb/ft · 2G DSM
  19. wrencher

    wrencher Proven Member

    Joined Nov 20, 2005
    Chicago, Illinois
    A/C systems need to be serviced correctly for consistent performance.
    There is some good advise in this tread. But mobile A/C operation is a little less tolerant than a HVAC system.

    Our cars have a low mounted compressor, fill vapor only.
    The cans will get you a charge in there but who knows too much or little?

    The proper way would be to evacuate the refrigerant from the system completely, then draw a 30hg vacuum on the system for at least 30 minutes. Air/moisture is bad for the system. ( this is what breaks the oil down to destroy compressors it turns A/C PAG oil acidic)
    The vacuum step removes air from the system, & boils water vapor off.

    Another component important to the system is the receiver drier. It is the canister on the outlet of the condenser with the line mounted to it with the sight glass.
    That is the filter for the system. It is a desiccant filled filter. In other words it is hygroscopic. It absorbs moisture contamination in the system.
    If you open your A/C system & leave it exposed to the atmosphere for an extended period of time, this piece is garbage. On a humid day 15-30 minutes is enough no kidding.
    Once the desiccant is saturated with moisture it's done.
    Driers go bad with component failures, leaks, low systems & just from simple age.

    Any major A/C repair I do, the drier is replaced. Also the last piece installed to seal the system & it is put on a vacuum immediately after installation.
    They come new sealed under a vacuum, at least they should.

    Once the system is sealed & dry (evacuation/vacuum) the proper amount of refrigerant is added to the ounce.
    Then confirm proper system pressures Low & High per ambient temperature & system specs.
    If all is well pressure wise & the interior duct temp is correct on low or medium 1 fan speed set to recirculate(40-48 degrees dependent upon humidity/ambient temps) Then it is done.

    There is more to it then just adding refrigerant to get it to operate consistently & to allow A/C system components to have a long life .

    When you have a system that you keep adding to you do not know how much contamination is in the system. Or if the system can be over or under filled.
    Those in combination with a saturated receiver drier equals a poor performing A/C system.
  20. Jesse2012

    Jesse2012 Proven Member

    Joined Jan 25, 2011
    Rochester, New York
    You can PM me if you want, but what would I expect to pay for what you just described? Would a local shop even be able to get a new drier? I'd love ice cold a/c again

    1K  0

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    automatic · 2G DSM
  21. wrencher

    wrencher Proven Member

    Joined Nov 20, 2005
    Chicago, Illinois
    Yes the drier is a very common replacement component.
    They should be available local if not within a day.

    A/C compressor replacements require a new drier for a MFG warranty for example.
    (denso makes our compressors OEM)

    As for the need for a drier in an otherwise operational system?
    That takes an experienced tech to determine. Usual hint the drier is toast is during high humidity high ambient temps heavy sun load days.
    The duct temps rise dramatically along with high side pressures & low side getting too low.

    Most places do A/C evac/recharges for $70-120. The amount of required refrigerant affecting the pricing.

    The drier replacement will add a $100 likely.
    It sux but unfortunately like anything else on a car, doing it properly rarely equates to it being cheap.

    As for the do it your-selfer....
    You could invest & get some things to do this work yourself.
    If you have a regular air compressor, you can buy a air driven A/C vacuum pump.
    They're not bad price wise= Air Operated Vacuum Pump at National Tool Warehouse
    ( they're not as good as an electric dedicated vacuum pump but they work)

    Then a R-134 manifold gauge set, Ive seen them for $50ish.
    A cheap R 134 can tap Sears.com this is to connect store bought cans to the manifold gauge set, & a cheap postage scale or something that does ounces to get fill amount correct.
    A little knowledge & information & anyone can do this stuff themselves.
    knytespyder likes this.
  22. TurkF26

    TurkF26 Supporting VIP

    Joined Sep 6, 2003
    vacaville, California

    GREAT job Wrencher :D

    I have found from pulling down and fixing AC systems that if someone has cracked or replaced AC components in the AC system in the past, the biggest thing that fails are the O rings going into and out of the Condenser since its one of the most commonly replaced items (accidents). I have also found that people that live in places with lots of trees and debris, that leaves and such pile up between the condenser and radiator which causes them both to have restricted air flow. The Condenser cannot do its job (turn a gas into a liquid) therefore the AC system does not blow cold / doesnt work.

    HowStuffWorks "How Automotive Air Conditioning Works"

    How Stuff Works has a great article on the ins and outs on a vehicles AC system in case anyone wanted to do some reading. :)
  23. fastfred

    fastfred Proven Member

    Joined Feb 23, 2014
    carrollton, Ohio
    I wish our service advisors could explain things like wrencher just did. Im in ohio and a dealership but we charge 110 to evac/recover, vac w/ leak test and recharge the system and diagnose any problem with the system. Pag oil is included. Our machine recycles your freon so if your full theres no extra cost for it. Parts replacement would obviously be extra. Id say you could expect to be in the 100 range for a diagnosis

    Street Build 6K  0

    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    503 whp · 441 lb/ft · 2G DSM
  24. wrencher

    wrencher Proven Member

    Joined Nov 20, 2005
    Chicago, Illinois
    2G A/C system info..

    Compressor Type Non-Turbo
    Nippondenso 10PA17 10-Cyl.
    Compressor Oil Capacity Non-Turbo(Use DENSO/ND-Oil 8 refrigerant oil) 2.7-4.1 ozs.

    Compressor Type Turbo
    Turbo Sanden MSC105 Scroll
    Turbo(Use SUN PAG 56 refrigerant oil) 5.7-6.4 ozs.
    Compressor Belt Deflection New7/32-15/64" (5.5-6.0 mm) Used1/4-19/64" (6.5-7.5 mm)

    Refrigerant (R-134a) Capacity 24.7-26.1 ounces.
    System Operating Pressures (With ambient temperature at about 77°F / 25°C)
    High Side 107-160 psi (7.5-11.2 kg/cm2 )
    Low Side 20-31 psi (1.4-2.2 kg/cm2 )

    Oil fill amounts are new component replacement. Not operational system oil amounts. Do not overfill with oil.
    Ambient temperature rises, humidity, sun load & heat load from vehicle interior will primarily affect high side pressure, driving it higher.
    Seeing high side creeping past 250 on a really hot day is normal.

    The A/C control unit controls cycling of compressor clutch based on information received from fin thermo sensor, ECM, blower switch, dual pressure switch and engine coolant temperature sensor. The A/C control unit is located on bottom of evaporator housing.

    The A/C switch is located in the A/C control panel. . A/C switch light will illuminate when A/C system is switched on.

    Fresh/recirculated air selector control is used to select airflow source. With control at fresh air setting, outside air is allowed to enter and pass through heater and evaporator. With control at recirculated air setting, air is recirculated inside passenger compartment. Eclipse uses a control knob and cable for fresh or recirculated air selection. Recirculation position is used to achieve maximum A/C cooling or heating.

    Blower switch controls 4 fan speeds to regulate amount of airflow. Fan speed increases as switch is turned clockwise.

    2.0L Non-Turbo
    Compressor rotation sensor, sends compressor rotational speed information to A/C Control Unit (ACCU).

    Depending on position selected, air can be directed to both front and rear of passenger compartment. Airflow selection capabilities include individual areas or a combination of windshield (defrost), upper body, knee and/or foot area. Rear passenger air distribution is limited to foot area only.

    Temperature level is selected by turning selector knob clockwise or counterclockwise. Highest heat setting is attained when selector knob is turned fully clockwise. When temperature selector knob is fully counterclockwise, ambient outside air temperature or A/C cooled air is available through vents.

    Dual-pressure switch is located on top of receiver-drier. Pressure switch is wired in series with compressor clutch. When system pressures are within control points, switch is ON and compressor can be energized. When system pressures decrease to less than (low charge) or increase to more than (overheating) control points of switch, power supplied to compressor will be cut. Compressor operation will cease until pressures are back within operating range.

    Engine coolant temperature sensor signals Powertrain Control Module (PCM) when engine coolant temperature is 226°F (108°C) or less. PCM will then allow A/C operation until engine coolant reaches 239°F (115°C) or more.

    Fin thermo sensor is located in evaporator case. Fin thermo sensor provide a voltage signal to A/C control unit which it uses to control compressor clutch operation preventing evaporator freezing. Power to compressor clutch is cut, allowing evaporator to thaw, if temperature is 38°F (3.2°C) or less.

    Turbo & 2.4L
    A/C refrigerant temperature switch is located on compressor and is wired in series with compressor clutch relay. When A/C refrigerant temperature switch in ON compressor will operate. Switch is ON when refrigerant temperature is less than 320°F (160°C). Switch is OFF when refrigerant temperature is greater than 320°F (160°C) and until temperature drops to less than 266°F (130°C).

    Ensure system is properly charged with correct amount of refrigerant and free of air and moisture. Add refrigerant or evacuate and recharge system as necessary. Check dual-pressure switch. Check fin thermo sensor or A/C control unit. Check refrigerant temperature switch (Turbo). Ensure receiver-drier is not clogged . Ensure sufficient airflow through condenser and evaporator exists. Check compressor belt for proper tension. Check compressor operation. Repair or replace compressor as necessary. Check for clogged expansion valve. Replace expansion valve as necessary.

    Check for air or moisture in system. Evacuate and recharge system as necessary. Check for expansion valve malfunction. Replace expansion valve if necessary. Check compressor belt for proper tension.

    Check for air leakage at air duct joint. Check for frost on evaporator. Ensure blower motor is operating properly. Check for improper adjustment of mode selector dampers or incorrect installation of mode selector control cable. Check fresh/recirculated air selector. Check for faulty duct connections, or crushed, bent or clogged ducts. Check for obstructed air intake.

    Park vehicle out of direct sunlight. Install A/C gauge set. Start engine and allow it to idle at 1000 RPM. Set A/C controls to recirculate air, panel (vent) mode, full cold, and A/C button on.
    Set blower/fan on high speed and close doors and windows. Insert thermometer in left center vent. Operate system for 20 minutes to allow system to stabilize. If clutch cycles, take temperature reading before clutch disengages.
    Measure temperature at center vent, with ambient temperature at 77°F (25°C). Temperature must be about 37-43°F (3-6°C). Check that high side and low side pressures are within specification. See the A/C SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS table.

    Start engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Locate A/C Control Unit (ACCU) 3-pin (14-pin on 2.0L Non-Turbo) connector. ACCU is located under blower motor. Inspect connector and wiring for damage. Repair as required. See Fig. 2 or Fig. 3 . Turn ignition on, A/C switch to ON position, temperature control to maximum cooling and blower switch to high. Using a DVOM set to appropriate test function, backprobe ACCU harness connector. Test readings should be as specified. See A/C CONTROL UNIT CIRCUIT TESTS table. If all test readings are as specified and all other components are within specifications, replace ACCU. If all test readings are not as specified, repair circuit(s) as required.

    Terminal No. (Circuit)Value
    1 (Compressor Relay)Battery Voltage
    2 (ACCU Ground)Battery Voltage
    4 (ACCU A/C Switch Power Supply)Battery Voltage
    5 (ACCU Ignition Power Supply)Battery Voltage
    7 (Pick-Up Sensor)(1)
    8 (Fin Thermo Sensor Ground)Zero Volts
    9 (ECM Power Supply Output)Battery Voltage
    11 (A/C Switch Power Supply)Battery Voltage
    12 (Fin Thermo Sensor Power Supply)5 Volts
    Turbo & 2.4L
    1 (ACCU Power Supply Output)Battery Voltage
    2 (ACCU Power Supply Input)Battery Voltage
    3 (ACCU Ground)Zero Volts
    (1)Resistance between terminals No. 7 & 9, should be 185 ohms at 68°F (20°C)

    Disconnect A/C switch connector. With A/C switch in indicated position, ensure continuity exists between switch terminals.

    Switch Position (1) Terminal No.Continuity
    Off 1 & 5 Yes
    On 1, 4 & 5 Yes
    (1)Terminals No. 3 and 6 should have continuity in all positions (light bulb circuit).

    Disconnect fin thermo sensor connector at top of evaporator case. Using an ohmmeter, measure continuity between fin thermo sensor terminals. See FIN THERMO SENSOR SPECIFICATIONS table.
    If resistance is not within specification, fin thermo sensor is faulty and must be replaced. If resistance is within specification and all other components are okay, replace A/C control unit.
    Application & Sensor Temperature °F (°C)Approx. Ohms
    32 (0)11,500
    50 (10)7500
    68 (20)4800
    86 (30)3300
    104 (40)2300

    Disconnect blower resistor connector. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between terminals indicated in BLOWER RESISTOR RESISTANCE table.
    Application & Terminal No.Approx. Ohms
    3 & 2 (Low)1.83
    3 & 4 (Medium-Low)0.87
    3 & 1 (Medium-High)0.31

    With blower switch in position indicated in BLOWER SWITCH CONTINUITY TEST table, ensure continuity exists between listed terminals. See Fig. 6 .
    Switch PositionTerminal No.Continuity
    OFF(1) No
    Low1 & 8; 3 & 5Yes
    Medium-Low1 & 8; 5 & 6Yes
    Medium-High1, 4 & 8; 2 & 5Yes
    High1, 4 & 8; 5 & 7Yes
    (1)Continuity should not exist between any terminals.

    Disconnect dual-pressure connector and connect a jumper wire across connector terminals. Connect manifold gauge set to system and check operating pressures. Dual-pressure switch will allow compressor operation when system pressure is within specification. Check continuity between switch terminals when pressures are as specified. See PRESSURE SWITCH SPECIFICATIONS table. If continuity is not present when switch is on, replace dual-pressure switch.
    Application & Pressure SideSwitch Position
    Off To On
    psi (kg/cm2 )Switch Position
    On To Off
    psi (kg/cm2 )
    Low32 (2.2)29 (2.0)
    High370 (26)456 (32)

    Disconnect wiring to compressor clutch. Connect battery negative lead to compressor housing. Connect battery positive lead to A/C compressor clutch wiring harness connector. If click is heard, clutch engagement is okay. If click is not heard, pulley and armature are not making contact. Repair or replace compressor clutch as necessary.

    Turbo & 2.4L
    Discharge A/C system, using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment. Disconnect refrigerant temperature switch electrical connector from compressor. Remove compressor fitting block. Remove refrigerant temperature switch snap ring from inside fitting block and remove switch. Carefully heat a pan of oil and hold refrigerant temperature switch up to threads in oil.
    Temperature switch is normally ON (continuity) when temperature is less than 320°F (160°C). When temperature is greater than 320°F (160°C) switch should be OFF (no continuity). Temperature switch will stay OFF (no continuity) until temperature decreases to 266°F (130°C).

    2.0L Non-Turbo
    Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between revolution pick-up sensor terminals No. 1 and 2. See Fig. 7 . Resistance should be 185 ohms at 68°F (20°C). Replace revolution pick-up sensor if it does not test as specified.

    NOTE:For blower motor relay and high blower relay testing see the HEATER SYSTEM article.

    Compressor Clutch & Condenser Fan Relays
    Remove relay from under hood relay box. Using an ohmmeter, check that continuity exists between terminals No. 1 and 3. Check that continuity does not exist between terminals No. 4 and 5. Connect battery voltage to terminal No. 1, and ground terminal No. 3. Check that continuity exists between terminals No. 4 and 5. See Fig. 8 . If continuity is not as specified, replace relay.
    Last edited: May 16, 2014
    knytespyder likes this.
  25. killercolt

    killercolt Proven Member

    Joined May 23, 2008
    Acworth, Georgia
    watch this video. if you can not figure it out after watching it, it is time to pay for profession service.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UW1GDiOa0kE]AC Diagnostics - AutoZone Car Care - YouTube[/ame]

    here is the another one.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80jSH8VQZms]Using AC Pressure Gauges To Fix Car AC Problems - YouTube[/ame]

    get the gauge from harbor freight or rent it from autozone.

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