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ECMlink 98GSX/Billet 20g/FIC1120's/Built Long Block, Cannot boost past 20psi??

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I put a known working tps in, did the tps adjust an I got (2 then 99)??? "don't have link with me right now"
this is my 4th DSM, but this one has been the most fun. But fun comes with headaches... ill get it fixed.. its sitting 5miles from my house, and I will pick it up tonite, just not sure when.. possibly Early Sun Morning, like 1/1:30AM LOL.... anything in the name of DSM!!
 
I'm not sure you're understanding what I mean. in ECMlink before you touch your TPS you need to completely zero out the TPS adjust section. TPS offset 0. TPS scale 100%. trying to do any adjustments before doing that first will result in a lot of wasted time.

When I adjusted my TPS I just stayed in link, had it streaming with the key forward and adjusted the TPS until it read properly. having a USB extension helps LOL.
 
Well, my distribution block has a little side to side rock, but I doubt that was the issue. I pulled the 20amp MPI fuse, tested the terminals with a test light, and 1 was hot, and same with all of the other ones. I plugged the 20amp back in, then the sunroof 30amp, then the headlights 30amp, all good. Finally I plugged the 30amp fuse into the one that was blowing them.... and it didn't pop. Got in, turned my key everything lit up, CEL came on, then went out. ALL GOOD!! I did check the wires at the starter... all tight... I'm going to install some sort of grommet or rubber at the main grommet coming out from the passenger side floorboard. But, there is no shielding disruption where the 12volt battery wire comes through the firewall... I don't get it.. it's gotta be that distribution block.
 
GST with PSI:
I have a .log file for you. With the fuel added @ 200hz and up, from 2kRPM to 6500+RPM.. I will upload it in an hour or so. I diluted the race-gas mixture.. it's more on the 93octane side of things... Just so you know, I appreciate each and every link that you post here, to help. The last 2 about a draining battery (which thank goodness is not my scenario), and popping fuses. I read each and every word..... The battery re-location looks good... nothing taped, or raped. Again, thanks for the help.. 8D
 
while looking this _vapor-wareZ_ log, heck.. I didn't even rev to 5k.. unless I'm looking at the wrong one.. car should be back on the road early this week.. I swear to death, I WILL capture a log from 2000RPM to 7200RPM..
 
I put it back together, took it for a spirited 10 mile stop and go drive, and the moment I pull into my driveway, the shuts off. This time, I put another 30amp fusible link into the ignition slot, and it didn't blow. But as soon as I turned my key to ON I could see my dash info lights, dimly, come up, and I heard my fans come on, but then it blew..IM leaning more towards a frayed wire somewhere. I'm going to put new fusible links in tomorrow, and if it starts.. I'm going to come to the conclusion that it happens when it's fully+ warmed up. I do recall grabbing my key to turn it OFF, and it plainly shut off.. mebbe the tumbler, or lock cylinder??? _stab in the dark!!!??, let's throw (more) new parts at it..._
 
GST with PSI,
I have Link run both of my cooling fans the entire duration it's running. Does It matter where I tap them into? I'm using the passenger side harness, using the LOW+ and LOW- I know there are several diagrams on how to wire in aftermarket fans, but when I followed those, it would blow a blade-fuse in the engine compartment... I remember In my Talon, I twisted LOW+ and HIGH+ together, then LOW- and HIGH- together, then fans + to twisted + and so on... and it worked fine. I don't think my fans are whats blowing this ignition fusible link... just sorta lost now...
 
Yes, it matters.

I'd start by unplugging the fans, and running the car. If the fuse doesn't pop, you found your problem.

Sounds to me like you have them wired into a circuit they aren't supposed to be, and they're pulling too much amperage from that circuit, causing it to overload and blow the fuse.
 
well, just an update...
I was looking in the vicinity of where we installed the TPS, and just so happened to notice a wire with a spade connector on the end, near the firewall/trans side. So I got the test light out, and sure enough it was Live!! and I remember taping it up 3 month's ago. I guess when my buddy was BOSS'n around he, managed to pull the tape I put on the top of it.. I know this more than likely is just coincidence, and my vehicle will continue popping fuses. NOTHING is that e-z.... or is it?? The wire is some kind of aftermarket wire the previous owner ran... let's hope..
 
GST with PSI:
I cant unhook my fans and drive it. It will overheat.. eheheh and it doesn't pop the fusible link right away... sometimes it's 12/13/14 miles.. eventually it pops, and I have to have the flatbed pick it up, because putting another fusible link in it just blows. For some reason it has to cool down, replace fuse, and your good, until she decides to blow another one. This never happened until I replaced the tps.
 
There's almost no possible way the TPS is the cause. The TPS uses a 5v reference, and not nearly enough amperage to blow a 30A fuse...Not to mention, they operate on different circuits.

Honestly, it sounds like your car is an electrical nightmare. The battery has been relocated, the fan(s) rewired, and who knows what else. It's going to be nearly impossible for anyone to help you troubleshoot this issue remotely because the electrical system has been heavily modified.

Short of physically seeing the car, and testing with my own DVOM, there's literally nothing I can do to help you find the problem.

My suggestion to you would be to verify all the circuits you have modified are not screwed up. For example, if you wired the fans into another circuit that's NOT the fan circuit, that's obviously a problem, and needs to be undone.

Next, use the free wiring diagrams hosted and start back probing each circuit associated with the fuse that's blowing. Start on page 100, you're looking for the circuit labeled "Power Distribution System" : https://www.scribd.com/doc/17887698/97-99EL?ad_group=ONLINE_TRACKING_LINK&campaign=4417&irgwc=1&keyword=Skimbit, Ltd.&medium=affiliate&source=impactradius
 
Last edited:
GST with PSI,
The battery is relocated, and I wired the fans. Other than that, its a bone stock 98 5spd harness, but I fully understand what your saying. I understand that the TPS cannot blow the Ignition Fusible link, but I was referring to what had to be taken off to get to the TPS sensor, and then re-installed. Obviously a wire got pinched, stripped, or disconnected, because 3000+ miles on my build, and i had zero electrical gremlins. I was JUST starting to tune it.. Thanks, I have some routes I'm going to take... we'll see. i'll 100% keep anyone interestedl up to date..
 
IGNITION FUSE BLOWING OUT HAS BEEN RESOLVED!!!
Here the cable at the starter came loose, and was touching the starter body!! fixed!!

GST with PSI:
I will post a 2kRPM to 7kRPM log here, too pickup where we left off. You had made an adjustment to 200Hz and above, richening it up some.. more than likely tomorrow AM!!!
Thanks A lot, Brett!! :D
 
good catch , LOL im following this thread pretty closely I had knee surgery so I'm stuck in the house it helps me with my build and stir craziniess LOL LOL
 
GST with PSI:
Sorry I havnt posted a log in 3rd going WOT. I usually do that on a local on-ramp, my cooling fans are junk.. Mishimoto 12" pullers, with a mishimoto shroud. Replacing them this week, and I WILL have another log for you by mid week.. again, i'd rather install new fans, and not blow the head..
 
Keep up the work. You'll be more satisfied driving a car you know is in good condition, and have the knowledge to fix it, if something simular happens again!
 
90laser:
I mean I could of hopped on the interstate 2/3 weeks ago, grabbed the log, but the next exit's 5miles down the road, then back on for another 5miles.. speed limits 65, that's d@mn near 3k RPM's.... my new cooling components, literally, JUST arrived. Your right, ive built it this far, you Live and Learn.. mishimoto radiators, _may_ be alright, but there slim line coolin fans don't cut it in ~90F days... sorry.. not bashing, just stating the obvious...
 
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