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General Running Lean, 6 Bolt Built Block

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2gTurBoD

15+ Year Contributor
59
0
Jul 25, 2007
orange park, Florida
Ok recently I installed a 6 bolt engine, Wiseco/Eagle combo. Ever since I have installed it, It has idled lean and I never had this issue before, I always Idles around 14.8-15.2. Im not so worries about Idle as I read some threads that said this was ok. Can someone confirm that tho one more time for peace of mind.

Now the real reason Im hear, at WOT throttle my AFR is around 11.1-11.8, those are fine, but normal cruise, I am crazy lean 18.0-sometime -- on the wideband.

I cant get it to hold rev between 1k rpm and 2k rpm. The rpms will rise than they will fall as if, it loses power or something. I replaced my power transistor because it was doing the weird rpm thing, and that put the car back on 4 cylinders and I could actually boost, and move the car, but my afr seem still messed up. The only thing I added to the car was a MAFT, because my setup forced me to. I tried to put my 2g maf in, and it caused the same problem, so I eliminated that possibility.

Also another issue, but only in low rpms, like when I try to cruise at 1k to 2k rpm, the car will jerk violently. Ive never experienced fuel cut, but some people say its like hitting a brick wall and this is what it seems like. There are no boost leaks, and Im using the same injectors/turbos/everything that I was running before, with none of these problems. I was also running a cas setup on my last engine, but I changed it to a black top cas, and I guess I could troubleshoot that as well.

Im stumped with this car, Im about to replace the fuel pump and fuel filter, maybe someone could explain to me how this would cause these would cause these issues. Also Im going to have Injectors cleaned and checked, but wouldnt if they where clogged, the problem would show up all the time, at WOT as well.

Im sorry this post is drawn out, but Im at a lost what to check next, besides what is listed.
:notgood::ohdamn:
 
have you tuned the MAFT correctly?
 
First off 14.7 is correct for idle second The other issues you are having are from not having a properly set TPS. at low throttle either you are opening the T-body before the TPS registers or vice versa (its showing throttle when your foot is off the gas. this will cause some odd symptoms. TPS should be .63Volts at 0% throttle if i can remember right but please make sure to verify first. Good luck :thumb: http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3tpsadj
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I did replace my TPS, I do need to set it, Ill take a look at it tomorrow. Im tuning with SAFC, so until my LINK gets here, the MAFT is just there because I cant run a 2g maf. I should have stated that. It set up correctly for my car of course, but I dont need it to adjust fuel.
 
But then i think your going to be testing resistance at that point since it wont be powered. so the if i can remember right you just set it so that it is a zero ohms at no throttle of course. Just need aligator clips to clip onto the tps pins. and im glancing back down at your post and i cant see if you said that you did a boost/vacuum test. that would cause higher afr due to the extra air getting in.
 
Even though you are tuning with an safc you need to verify that the maft is zero'd out. It could have the low setting leaned all the way out.
 
The MAFT is completely zero'd out. Ive done a boost leak and it holds fine at 30 psi. I am not sure, what else it could be, unless, the power transistor I put in, is still faulty even though it fixed somethings. We are expecting rain the next few days, but I will get my tps set and see what that does. The timing is dead on as well. I plan on installing a new fuel pump, with a rewire kit, so there's constant power to that. When I start the car, It says at 14.8 afr for a couple of minutes, then it will go full rich, then slowly climb back to full lean. Im going to also check the wiring for the safc, would a loose connection to the maf wire cause this possibly?
 
The transistor will have nothing to do with the a/f ratio. If there is a wire issue with the safc that could cause a problem.
 
Would the loose wire issue show through the power band? Like I said at wot my afr are exactly where they are suppose to be. I cant work on the car for a couple days, have a storm moving through, so I can really only throw out some educated guesses. Ive looked over everything so feel free to point out some obvious things. More like a brainstorming.
 
Set my tps correctly, and the jerk went away in lower rpms, so the tps was directly related to that. The fuse for my AEM blew last night, so I didn't go to far, but so far, setting the tps took care of alot of issues. Now it doesn't look like I have no idea how to drive a stick LOL.
 
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