The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

98 gst wont start, no fuel, fuel pump is good.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kidwiththelaser

15+ Year Contributor
206
4
Jun 6, 2005
minneapolis, Minnesota
So my car isnt starting after a rebuild. Its sparking just fine. But not getting fuel into the cylinders.

I got it to run on carb cleaner.

I checked that everything was wired up, and its all good. Fuel is getting to the rail for sure. The injectors are getting 14v with the key on but not cranking.

I suspect either bad cam angles sensor, or maybe bad injector resistor pack?? I dont know how to test either one though...I know I should get a service manual but I just havent yet.

Can anyone help me real quick?
 
If you have a 7 bolt it could be a faulty cam or crank sensor, I believe it has to have a crank ref. in order to enable the FP on.
 
If you have a 7 bolt it could be a faulty cam or crank sensor, I believe it has to have a crank ref. in order to enable the FP on.

Fuel is being pumped to the rail.

Anyone know what exactly is needed to fire the injectors?

The injectors are getting 14v with the key on and engine not running, but they just arent firing for whatever reason.
 
Ohh, you said you had no fuel. What you should've said is that you have no injector pulse.

Anyway there is constant power to the injectors and the ECU grounds them out to fire them, it is told when to do it by the cam/crank/cas, whichever you may have.
 
Ohh, you said you had no fuel. What you should've said is that you have no injector pulse.

Anyway there is constant power to the injectors and the ECU grounds them out to fire them, it is told when to do it by the cam/crank/cas, whichever you may have.


yeah, thats kinda what I was thinking too, but I just dont know how to test the Cam position sensor. Or Crank angle sensor for that matter.
 
But its getting spark and doesnt the ecu get the signal for the spark from the cps and cas too?

Couldnt it be a bad ect too? Anyone know how to test an ect?
 
It is somewhat likey that your ECU's injector driver circuits have been shorted somewhere. First, check the injectors to verify that the resistance is roughly 2-2.5 Ohms, if you find one that isn't -that's your problem.

After (if) the injectors all check out fine, check the driver circuit while cranking the engine over. To do this, use a test light to confirm that there is a pulsed continuity between the negative battery post and the ground lead for the injector. If the light either stays on constant or will not light, you will need to first check the injector wiring for shorts/wear and then (if none) replace the ECU.
 
It is somewhat likey that your ECU's injector driver circuits have been shorted somewhere. First, check the injectors to verify that the resistance is roughly 2-2.5 Ohms, if you find one that isn't -that's your problem.

After (if) the injectors all check out fine, check the driver circuit while cranking the engine over. To do this, use a test light to confirm that there is a pulsed continuity between the negative battery post and the ground lead for the injector. If the light either stays on constant or will not light, you will need to first check the injector wiring for shorts/wear and then (if none) replace the ECU.

You are like my idol right now. I already tested the injector resistances and they all checked out, so ill check for continuity like you said.
 
I just tested the injector wires for continuity, and there is definitely none when cranking.

A quick visual inspection of the wires leads me to believe that I probably need a new ecu......:cry:

thanks for all your help everybody!

Illl go throw in my eprom ecu probably a bit later and hope that it works! I will update this thread and see if that does it.:thumb:
 
im beginning to suspect its a bad resistor pack...I am not 100% sure because I dont know how to properly test it. But I tested the resistance between various pins on the resistor pack connector and all I ever got was either 0 or no continuity.
 
ok, so I replaced the resistor pack with a good one. AND SHE RUNS!!!

But leaks a bunch of coolant, so time to continue the diagnosing!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top