hudsonjj27
Probationary Member
- 7
- 0
- Jan 12, 2010
-
virginia beach,
Virginia
I have a 98 GS-T picked it up a few yrs ago from a buddy that sideswiped a gaurd rail back in 2002 and it sat in his garage ever since. Car was burning oil like crazy so i did a leak down/compression test (results were not great). Last year I pulled the engine to rebuild, things done:
-stripped engine all the way down to bare block, had crank, cams, and fly wheel resurfaced. block honed and decked.
- head was rebuilt at a local machine shop (OEM Spec)
- new piston rings, bearings etc.
- new oil pump, thermostat, timing belt, BS Belt.
- new ACT Clutch, slave cylinder
- plugs, plug wires
- ARP Head studs
- Apexi Exhaust
- Apexi Turbo timer
- 1G BOV
- New CV axles and front rotors
So all in all the engine is pretty much stock, just freshly rebuilt. Put the engine in and fired it up, clutch would not disengage (think its the master cylinder) and it has a rough idle after about a min or 2 of running. Well im currently on deployment and I know I should get the car running right first but just couldnt resist so I started ordering parts, so when I get home I can get to work.
-Injen intake
- ETS 7" FMIC Kit
- Master cylinder
- Defi gauges (boost, oil press., EGT)
- Greddy Type-R BOV (Recirculating)
- Apexi Super AVC-R
- Avid racing motor mounts ( I know should have done this with engine out)
- Megan racing short shifter
Thats all for now, my goal is to have a 300whp daily driver. Still researching fuel system, pump "walbro 255", 680"ish" cc injectors, AEM rail and AFPR. Probably going to order the DSMLink V3 for tuning, and when I upgrade turbo its looking like the "FP green".
Just want your guys' input on this and make sure I'm somewhat on the right track?
Thanks for any advice!
-Jeff
-stripped engine all the way down to bare block, had crank, cams, and fly wheel resurfaced. block honed and decked.
- head was rebuilt at a local machine shop (OEM Spec)
- new piston rings, bearings etc.
- new oil pump, thermostat, timing belt, BS Belt.
- new ACT Clutch, slave cylinder
- plugs, plug wires
- ARP Head studs
- Apexi Exhaust
- Apexi Turbo timer
- 1G BOV
- New CV axles and front rotors
So all in all the engine is pretty much stock, just freshly rebuilt. Put the engine in and fired it up, clutch would not disengage (think its the master cylinder) and it has a rough idle after about a min or 2 of running. Well im currently on deployment and I know I should get the car running right first but just couldnt resist so I started ordering parts, so when I get home I can get to work.
-Injen intake
- ETS 7" FMIC Kit
- Master cylinder
- Defi gauges (boost, oil press., EGT)
- Greddy Type-R BOV (Recirculating)
- Apexi Super AVC-R
- Avid racing motor mounts ( I know should have done this with engine out)
- Megan racing short shifter
Thats all for now, my goal is to have a 300whp daily driver. Still researching fuel system, pump "walbro 255", 680"ish" cc injectors, AEM rail and AFPR. Probably going to order the DSMLink V3 for tuning, and when I upgrade turbo its looking like the "FP green".
Just want your guys' input on this and make sure I'm somewhat on the right track?
Thanks for any advice!
-Jeff
.
. I've also heard of some guys going with the AEM EMS series 2, any take on that? Or has anyone tried to integrate a Bosch type E-manage system w/ DDU's? <-- maybe later down the road if I'm able to fit one to it.