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Spyder 97 Spyder GS sohc turbo

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Spyder786

Probationary Member
20
8
Apr 5, 2021
Markham, ON_Canada
I own a bone stock 97 spyder GS (4g64) n/t - purchased a 97 spyder AWD (converted from a 97 talon) as a donor car - it barely ran.

Gameplan: turbo 4g64 sohc and fix/build the 4g63 (or just salvage the head) to eventually swap and AWD. lots of options, i know, having said that I'm only interested in turbo'ing the 4g64 at the moment.

Parts i have swapped over:
-ecu engine wiring harness
-stock 450cc injectors and resistor pack
-fuel pressure solenoid valve
-fuel pump

My next step was to swap over the 4g63 throttle body and fire up the car but i noticed the stock 4g64 front engine fusebox harness connector is different and wont connect to the 4g63 engine harness. the only difference i have found between the 2 harnesses, the turbo harness has a connector for the 'oil pressure gauge unit' and the fusebox itself is different.

If swap over the fuse box harness, do i also need to change the interior body harness as well? or can i somehow connect the stock 4g64 fuse box and hard wire the connector for the oil pressure gauge unit?

For the oil filter housing, is there an existing oil supply line i can tap or another place to get oil supply for the turbo? Also I have a non eprom ecu (gold) will this be good enough to get me running with the sohc setup?

I realize that there is a lot more stuff todo, i.e. swap the radiator, thermostat housing, side mount intercooler and evap canister (my stock canister is under the passenger headlight and the donor car has it below the battery), swap/tap the oil pan, turbo, manifold, exhaust and all of the piping etc.
 
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The turbo harness will have a boost gauge, injector resistor pack, knock sensor, cam sensor might be different so it's easier to just swap the engine harness. body harness is gonna be the same but turbo will have wiring for boost and oil pressure to the gauge cluster. You can run aftermarket gauges and be fine
 
thanks for your insight sierra5, i feel like after market guages are probably best. Please correct me if im wrong but from what i have read online, the cam sensors are the same between the 4g64 and 4g63 (for the same year). the 4g63 harness plug for cas will need to be extended for it to work with my sohc head for now.

swap update: front engine harness is in (with fuse box) had to fix a few harness connectors thankfully my 4g64 harness was mint so i was able to get what was missing. I also removed the factory charcoal cannister (box shaped can under the driver side headlight) along with the hardlines, replaced it with a cylindrical can that i got from the donor car - installed under the battery. Installed factory side mount intercooler and the appropriate piping. Got the turbo cluster and ecu installed along with an aftermarket aem boost guage from the donor car, the vacuum line was bent really bad at one end but i was able to salvage it and will upgrade once everything is up and running.

I found a sandwich adapter for my oil filter housing so i can hopefully pull the oil pressure sensor off the donor car and plug into that - still looking around for one that will work well for this but im open to any suggestions please. Also, the harness im using is from an ABS car, my spyder does not have ABS - do i need to worry about any of these connectors (abs ecu connector in passenger footwell, two hydralic connectors under driver headlight) should i leave them sealed tucked away? everything online says disconnecting the abs ecu won't affect my cars ability to stop but there is no definitive answer about the hydraulic unit connectors under the driver headlight, there are 2 connectors, any advise is greatly appreciated.

Next steps are to pull the 4g63 throttle body clean it up and put it on the 4g64 sohc intake manifold (along with all of the evap lines) and also put on the 4g63 thermostat housing and radiator. The way this swap is going im probably going to end up doing a head swap instead of the 4g63 bottom end LOL hopefully gona try and start the car once the throttle body is in just to see if everything works ok

I'd like to say, being a part of this community is amazing, im learning soo much about my car and doing stuff i never knew was even possible and am truly grateful for this resource and to be a part of it (even a small insignificant one LOL!)
 
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i need some help please!! been trying to figure this out for over a week now, fuel pump is not turning on and not not getting any power through 12v test connector on firewall. pump works with direct 12v from battery. ive tried 2 different relays and they both seem to be working (make a clicking sound when cranking). also the dash has 3 lights on when the key is turned (brake/coolant/battery) these lights are very faint and don't go away. any suggestions please?
 
Please make a profile.
Does ecu light come on with key on? Ecu like should come on then go out in 5 sec. If not and it isn't bulb ecu isn't getting power or isn't working.
 
thanks for the quick reply Paul, i filled out a bunch of stuff on my profile please let me know if there needs to be anymore info.

The check engine light cycles on like normal (turns on for 5 sec then goes away when key turned on) and i checked my voltage at the battery/alternator its 12.5v. Car cranks and has spark but for some reason no power to the pump or check connector.
 
Solved fuel pump issue, it needed to be grounded. the stock spyder gs fuel pump grounds somewhere between the engine wiring harness and fuel pump relay module (i swaped stock gs for gst wiring harness). ended up cutting the fuel pump @ the connector ground wire and stuck it directly to the chassis.

also the 3 lights on the dash turned off after the car started - does anyone know if those lights always cycle on when your turn the ignition on along with the check engine light? anyhow car fires up and runs a little rough to start but idles nice after a few mins (i have nothing hooked up to the intake right now)

Next step is to tap the coolant/oil lines and hookup the exhaust manifold with turbo!
 
if you end up swapping the head, i have a few things on mediafire that might help.
4g64_head_swaps

i know you got the fuel pump taken care of but i thought i would point out that
the problem you were having with the fuel pump is because of the fuel pump relay module.

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yes dustyboner, you're correct. also thanks for the links on the head swap.

i remember reading somewhere that interior wiring harness was the same for all fwd cars but the spyder gs is a little different i when it comes to the fuel pump i guess - even the rear o2 sensor wires under the drivers seat are different colours but they seem to work and be plug n play. there's also wiring for a fuel differential pressure switch on the 97 spyder gs that isn't used on the 97 gst - i just left these wires unhooked
 
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