97 GSX Project "Money Pit"

[colbyc]

This is the Build Thread for 97 GSX Project "Money Pit". Reply below.

 

[colbyc]

Hey all, I've been enjoying reading everyone's build threads I've kind of delayed doing my own.

I purchased this car back at the end of September 2024, I didn't need another project car, I just couldn't help myself. It also made a lot more sense to build this one to my liking versus my AWD Spyder. Now it's an Awd Spyder, Evo 8, and this 97 GSX in the stable. Glutton for punishment you could say.

So, with this one, when I purchased it, I was told it had a slight tick, which when I went to pick it up, I couldn't actually hear it. After getting it home and going over basically every inch of the car, it came with a lot of great stuff, as well as a lot of not-so-great things that needed addressed.

Several open boost leaks, exhaust leak from the downpipe to 02 housing, rear washer line was hooked up to the throttle body and not the squirters , throttle body shaft seals leaking, a bunch of small wiring issues, most disappointingly a spun rod bearing, and a tune that explained the spun rod bearing.

It is a rust-free chassis that came with quite a bit of good stuff with it, so I can't complain too much, especially the price point I got it for.

So, with all that off to work I go.

 

[colbyc]

So, my first order of business was fixing all the tedious smaller issues that plagued the car.

There were several open boost leaks, literal hoses that went nowhere, hoses pushed into other hoses to reduce down, leaky fittings so on and so forth, and a leaky throttle body. So I figured while I'm fixing all of these I might as well toss this JMF race intake manifold and S90 throttle body I've had laying around on and convert everything over to push lock pneumatic hose. During this process I also noticed the vacuum pump that it came with was hooked up wrong and was essentially doing nothing. I fixed this as well with new hose and check valve.

With that done I had to figure out something to do about the intercooler pipe, so I figured while I had this new Treadstone intercooler laying around I might as well install it too. Funny how that works. I also had some 3" pipe so I fabbed up a new Upper Intercooler pipe to go with it. In hindsight 3" was way too large for what I'm doing I've since ordered some 2 1/2" pipe and plan to remake this when it comes in.

I'm no professional fab guy, so please be kind.

 

[colbyc]

The engine had this very faint ticking sound that I could never quite locate, it didn't sound like much, but man was I wrong. After draining the oil, it looked like a gold mine. Cylinder 2 had spun. Luckily for me I already had a built 7 bolt long block lying around. Unfortunately, I didn't have space in my shop to complete this task, so I took it to my friends shop that was right down the road and had him swap it over for me. During this I redid all the timing components, O-ringed the block, and changed out all of the coolant hoses for new silicone ones. I also swapped the o2 housing for a new one flanged for a Tial MVS wastegate.

So now she has some Manley Rods, Wiseco HD pistons, GSC s3's, Kiggly springs and retainers, ARP L19's, and some AEM cam gears.

Once I got it back, I knew I needed to figure out something to do with the transmission cooler that was on the car. The one that was on it was really big and positioned to where you could barely get the bumper on. So, I had a spare slightly smaller setup lying around that will work in the meantime. I plan to get a larger one and find a better spot to mount it.

I also redid the fan setup and wiring to get it away from the exhaust manifold and changed out the alternator that was in it. The tensioner threads were completely stripped and had no real way to lock it in place.

Unfortunately, the connectors and everything on these wiring harnesses are broke, about to break, or the wiring leading up to is exposed and brittle. So, with that being said, while the car was at my buddies shop, I accidentally purchased a Fueltech FT550 with harnesses, Deutsch connector, and a Kiggly 12-1 crank trigger kit.

This is the part where my OCD, ADD, ADHD.....whatever kicks in. The planning for doing this conversion, as I want to make the new harness flexible to add various sensors I want/need. As well as add transmission control.

 

[colbyc]

So after getting the car back from my buddies shop, I had the most frustrating time keeping the car running once in gear. I did a ton of troubleshooting, playing with the tune, which seemed to quickly point to a mechanical issue. My initial thought was that when they slapped the long block in there, they didn't put the pilot bushing in.

Well, theyin fact, did not put the pilot bushing in.

This caused the torque convertor to be slightly off-center, and when any kind of load was put on it, it would rotate off balance. Super frustrating, careless mistakes irritate me. This is why I don't let people work on my cars.

Well, while I had it out, I figured I might as well freshen up some parts of the transmission as well as install this new Precision Industries torque convertor I had. Some new axle seals, AO silicone gaskets, filter, and pulled it apart to inspect some of the wear parts. It's a newer rebuilt transmission, and it all looked good with no visible wear.

So it all went together fairly seamlessly. I had one minor/major hiccup. When I got this torque convertor, it didn't have bolts like most PI convertors come with, apparently. I bought it new from them, so I called them up as I tried to use the stock M10x1.25, and it was not threading in. I called them, and they made me up some new bolts and assured me the pads were definitely m10x1.25 threads. They were not. They were m10x1.5. Which would've been fine had I not tried thread the wrong bolts in. This slightly messed up the threads in the pads, so I tried to use a thread chaser to clean the threads up. All were great, until the last one. The thread chaser snapped off inside the hole.

So I now I get to pull the transmission once again to extract a thread chaser

Other than my terrible luck, everything has been great with the car. I have everything I need to convert it over to FuelTech now. My plan is to sell my Evo to open up a bay in my shop and redo almost all the wiring in the car.

 

[colbyc]

Fueltech conversion part 1:

So update, I finally sold my Evo so I was able to pull the eclipse into my shop and I've started tackling the FuelTech conversion. I'll be using the FT550, and nano wideband. I've been acquiring parts for the conversion to do it correctly.

Parts Used:

FT550 https://www.fueltech.net/products/f...mRNKulXKxoCN-gQAvD_BwE&variant=39362559803457
Nano Wideband https://www.fueltech.net/products/w...2Pw4IppMNCJACoQsOOOIpLavZlAgfVwhoCz4QQAvD_BwE
Universal A+B Harness
TXL wire
Trans temp sensor(Rife) https://motionraceworks.com/products/rife-liquid-temp-sensor-1-8-npt-gm-connector-52-1060-coolant-water-oil-trans-fluid-fuel?currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=6699decc859e&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5PK_BhBBEiwAL7GTPTv8wOtb18_KE-j7VuccFIM9R8zQSRWsFSl3YWyr920Lg4D0y0YCKhoCS3AQAvD_BwE
Oil pressure sensor(lowdollar motorsports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BS4HF7XB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Fuel pressure sensor(lowdollar motorsports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BS4HF7XB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
GM coolant temp sensor
Kiggly 12-1 crank trigger https://www.kigglyracing.com/product-page/billet-12-tooth-crank-trigger-sensor-kit-v3
Sheridan engineering connector kit https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Sh...it-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-1997-99-DSM-Engine.html
Honda B Series IACV
Honda Remote IACV Mount https://www.xcessivemanufacturing.c...L5RuW9XYqW6OpfFF6YfDN_BjR664sQhVLhk6w6VYJbaA1
Harness Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBV3NNTM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Deutsch Connector Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7K8Q5CZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Kapton Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S32VKB4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Non insulated Crimp Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFFJRXT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Clear heat Shrink Tubing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089D6L839?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Crimp Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07476C1LD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Blox Racing K20 Coils https://bloxracing.com/products/coi...xw9XwAJ2dEVjmG1CLHeZ30&variant=44145694736628
CNC Innovations K20 Coil Plate https://www.cncinnovationsmy.com/product-page/cop-adapter-for-k20-coil-mitsubishi-4g63-evo123
Forced Four Smart PRDN Module V3 https://forcedfour.com/smart2prnd3.htm

Others I'll add to the list I know I'm forgetting. I'll include links for future reference for others.

Edit - This isn't a list of every single part used IE: Labels, all connectors, lines, AN Fittings, label maker...etc. If you're wanting to know specific things used, feel free to ask.

I started out with redoing the trunk mounted battery relocation, as it was hodge podged together and drove me nuts. I also made a relay/power distrubution panel. I'm using rivnuts where I can on this. Don't mind the wire routing/mess, I've got everything laying loosely for the time being and will be routed correctly and cleaned up.

I do plan on pulling out all this sound dampening material, but that's a project for another day. I've yet to find the magic sorcery to get it to come up easily.

 

[colbyc]

I've spent a good bit of time cleaning up and removing wiring along the way. I started out with doing some research on dsm fueltech conversions and came across @jdxnc thread which helped a ton and made it less daunting. So I really liked the idea of using the factory gauge cluster bezel as a backing for the fueltech screen and nano wideband. I modeled up a mount for it off his design.

At this point I've got the ecu/wideband mounted and harnesses routed but unterminated. I've still got to make the backing for the gauge bezel.

I had to depin the wideband harness to route it out through the firewall. Here's what that looks like and my technologically advanced depin solution.

 

[colbyc]

To do list:

1. Install remote oil pressure sensor
2. Install fuel pressure sensor
3. Install trans temp sensor
4. Install Honda IAC
5. Route Fueltech harnesses to correct locations
6. Make firewall plate for 47 pin quick connector
7. Cut/pin harnesses for quick connector
8. Loom, heatshrink, and label all connectors
8. Install input/output connectors for all sensors and solenoids

A ton of other stuff to do along the way. I'll document this better as I go as well.

 

[jdxnc]

I've spent a good bit of time cleaning up and removing wiring along the way. I started out with doing some research on dsm fueltech conversions and came across @jdxnc thread which helped a ton and made it less daunting. So I really liked the idea of using the factory gauge cluster bezel as a backing for the fueltech screen and nano wideband. I modeled up a mount for it off his design.

At this point I've got the ecu/wideband mounted and harnesses routed but unterminated. I've still got to make the backing for the gauge bezel.

View attachment 759760

I have another one of the 3D printed mounts ready to go if it would interest you

 

[colbyc]

Fueltech conversion part 2:

I started with routing the Fueltech Harnesses through the firewall with all the labeled Inputs and outputs I knew I'd need. Pre-planning what you'll need is a very critical step here. I knew I wanted to add an PWM IACV, and auto trans control on top of all the various sensors, and outputs required.

Here is where I set all my branches with roundabout lengths marked with Kapton Tape for both where the branches would break out and the lengths.

This is just the pass through to the engine bay with my spaghetti wiring mess.

I marked off where my firewall pass through for my 47 pin quick connector would go with painters tape.

 

[colbyc]

Next I essentially made sure everything was positioned correctly and tapped up well and chopped the harness at the marked spot.

Here the harness is pinned up to the quick connector and layed out designating branches.

Here is the interior portion of the harness pinned up as well to the firewall quick connector.

After I got the engine portion of the harness pinned up and layed out for the most part I test fitted it back in the bay so I could better mark all the branches and more precise lengths.

After getting everything set, here is the final product. I opted for split loom and harness tape just for the fact I wanted a serviceable harness, and if I wanted to add things later I can easily do so.

 

[colbyc]

This is the final dash layout I went for. I do plan on changing this to be cleaner at some point, but, it definitely works well. I went with a usb bulkhead as well.

While I had the car down, I wanted to change a few things as well. Mainly these awful fixed back seats and steering wheel.

I decided to go with some sparco R100 seats and a quick disconnect steering wheel. The wheel itself will be here tomorrow hopefully, but everything is ready to go for it. Here's some pics of the mount I made up for the driver seat, and the install.

I also decided while I was taking this on, I wanted to redo my AFPR. I had a fuel lab lying around and a bracket. So I swapped that over and made up some new lines. Now I can actually access my throttle body. The 3" intercooler piping was way too large, so I decided to redo that as well to downsize to 2.5". This was much easier to work with and route. I also got my COP plate in, so I threw that on as well.

 

[colbyc]

Next on my list of things to do. I've purchased new headlights that have come in, so I'll be putting them on this week.

1. Install wet nitrous kit (I'll probably do this in the next few weeks)
2. Order some track wheels and tires. I'm wanting a 15" setup, but it has outlander front brakes so unsure if any will clear these. I'll have to do more research on this, if not I'll probably downsize to a smaller front brake setup.
3. Redo exhaust. This is a single 1-piece exhaust from downpipe to the muffler. The downpipe section isn't in the best condition and has no flex section. So, trying to put a plan together to redo this.
4. Pull engine and trans to clean up and spray engine bay
5. Possibly convert to electric power steering
6. Wire tuck chassis harness and put in a new fuse box or PMU.
7. Clean up all surface rust and coat affected areas. This mainly applies to the engine bay and parts. Some front suspension parts
8. Pull turbo and manifold and have hot parts coated
9. Get new front bumper and wrap car
10. Pull drip moldings and hopefully restore, if not try to find some good condition used ones.
11. Purchase CF Hood
12. Purchase CF Trunk

I'm trying not to get into the circle of being in a constant state of building and upgrading versus actually enjoying the car. I'm open to input and suggestions on things to do.

 

[colbyc]

Slowly been making progress on things. She's been running well on fueltech, I've had a voltage issue though. When you start it, it doesn't start charging until you rev it to around 4.5k RPM. So I ordered a MCR 160 alternator, and plan on redoing the wiring going to it with 1 guage wire. I decided for the 160 due to the possibility of swapping over to electric power steering system (EPAS) like I have in my spyder, and room to grow some.

I finished up redoing the exhaust. What a pain that is without a lift. Definitely do not recommend it. I'll end up redoing a portion of the downpipe due to not being great at figuring out pipe angles, and lying at awkward angles trying to eyeball it. It turned out decently though.

I also got my steering wheel in, it got lost twice in transit from Amazon. Same location too, what are the odds. I'll probably end up getting a better quality wheel, this one isn't awful though. Its actually really nice sitting in it now with the sparco seat and new wheel.

 

[colbyc]

So while I was building the exhaust, and I was under the car for far too long I couldn't help but notice a bunch of grime all over the steering rack by the passenger inner tie rod. After slightly moving the boot a bunch of power steering fluid started pouring out. The joys of owning a dsm, it's literally always something. My plan is to convert over to electric power steering anyways, so I would need to depower the rack regardless. So this is what we did today.

Started with de-nastying it. Sealed off all the ports, soaked it in degreaser, scrubbed and scrubbed with a nylon brush and pressure washed it.

Here's my helper, can't keep her out of the shop with me

This is the pinion gear welded up.

I cleaned every thing with mineral spirits very thoroughly. I regressed all the of the bearings and seals as well. Everything was in good condition thankfully.

I reused the factory fittings and welded the ends of them up. I put thread sealant on them once installed.

Here's the finished product. I have new inner and outer tie rods and boots on order.

I would do a write up on this, but feel it's been covered many times. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

 

[colbyc]

I finally got around to putting the depowered steering rack back in, and I'll say for a street car I cant wait to toss this electric power steering in it. Im not sure how anyone would regularly drive a car with no power steering, kudos to you. Or I'm just weak, which is valid.

So I've put some miles on the car, and being an automatic being controlled through fueltech it's something I've been working through. Kevin collins has helped a lot with the trans control, it still needs some work though. It has been running very well though, it's so nice having a more modernized control of the car.

I opted to keep the stock coolant temp sensor originally and try it out, but the readings were inconsistent. The scaling for it was most likely not perfect, but I had this gm coolant temp sensor anyways so I decided to toss it in. I tapped the thermostat housing for the 3/8 npt thread, and fueltech already has the GM coolant temp sensor pre-configured so it was plug and play. I also defunked the housing to while I had it off.

I also mounted up the catch can setup for it. I had to make up a new bracket to put in off the firewall, and make up some new lines. This is probably a short term solution, but it should work for the time being. I ordered some P75 paint match paint, which I'm waiting to come in. I spent some time prepping some areas of the bay to touch up until I pull the engine and trans to respray it all. Headlights are installed too.

I wanted the ability to charge a laptop while I was out and about, plus I plan on doing some drag and drive events with it so found this PD 3.0 outlet which seems to work well so far.

I still have a long way to go from where I want it all, but it's slowly coming together.

 

[colbyc]

Just a small update. I've put close to 300 miles on the car so far, which doesn't seem like much, but it's 280 more than the amount I've been able to since I've owned it. Everything has been working well. I've had very little blow by doing several WOT pulls tuning. No dip stick popping out, catch can has barely had anything in it. Not sure if it's just everything is healthy, or the valve cover and crank case ventilation doing their job. Either way, it's pretty awesome coming from previous DSM's where I fought this alot.

Here's a small "low boost", low timing 2nd gear pull. Sorry for the bad quality in advance.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Just a small update. I've put close to 300 miles on the car so far, which doesn't seem like much, but it's 280 more than the amount I've been able to since I've owned it. Everything has been working well. I've had very little blow by doing several WOT pulls tuning. No dip stick popping out, catch can has barely had anything in it. Not sure if it's just everything is healthy, or the valve cover and crank case ventilation doing their job. Either way, it's pretty awesome coming from previous DSM's where I fought this alot.

Here's a small "low boost", low timing 2nd gear pull. Sorry for the bad quality in advance.

That thing rips, man. The FP Black seems like it hits hard. I love the FuelTech too.

 

[GHSTII]

Just a small update. I've put close to 300 miles on the car so far, which doesn't seem like much, but it's 280 more than the amount I've been able to since I've owned it. Everything has been working well. I've had very little blow by doing several WOT pulls tuning. No dip stick popping out, catch can has barely had anything in it. Not sure if it's just everything is healthy, or the valve cover and crank case ventilation doing their job. Either way, it's pretty awesome coming from previous DSM's where I fought this alot.

Here's a small "low boost", low timing 2nd gear pull. Sorry for the bad quality in advance.

This is rad!
Very similar to my feelings after switching to FuelTech. I was fighting electrical issues left and right beforehand, and a sealed catch can setup made a big difference with my blow-by issues too.

 

[colbyc]

That thing rips, man. The FP Black seems like it hits hard. I love the FuelTech too.

Appreciate it! It really does, once it lights up it just pulls like a freight train. Once Im finished with this setup I'll probably move on to a 6466 setup.

This is rad!
Very similar to my feelings after switching to FuelTech. I was fighting electrical issues left and right beforehand, and a sealed catch can setup made a big difference with my blow-by issues too.

Thanks! It's really nice knowing that if nothing else, the electrical portion of your worries are dialed away. I'd much rather deal with mechanical issues rather than electrical gremlins, and aged connectors.

 

[colbyc]

Its been busy lately, and I've been busy pulling transmissions I have a couple spare automatic transmissions so I decided I'd try my hand out in rebuilding one. I purchased the rebuild kit from IPT. Here's the finished product, it really wasn't awful, a lot of over thinking on my end during to not mess anything up. Which, hopefully I didn't.

The next time I take this on I'll document the whole process, now that I'm more comfortable with it. The spare transmission I have in the car right now was recently rebuilt, so hopefully it'll be a while before that happens.

I also sent my precision torque convertor back to precision for an inspection and restall. It was a #6, and I decided to go up to a #8 to hopefully be able to stall up without nitrous.

I also picked up an older punishment racing T3 manifold. I decided to go ahead and VHT coat it and the BEP .70 Hx40 hot side I had lying around.

 

[colbyc]

So on that note of using nitrous to stall, I've had this NX dry kit I've yet to install so I decided I might as well go ahead and knock it out before I completely button the interior up. Hopefully with the new convertor I won't need this, but I'd rather have it and not need it.

I also ordered an 1/8 npt weld on bung, not a huge fan of the sandwich style with RTV they supply with the kit.