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97 GSX 600hp Street/Drag/Restoration

Posted by maximum9898, Sep 1, 2013

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  1. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Well I've had this posted on dsmtalk for a while now, I just figured I'd share the beginning to end with tuners as-well. Now I might miss some of the pictures and details. But I'll post up a link to the other thread at the end of this. I'm not completely done with it yet. Have some tuning to do and misc. suspension. But other than that it is 98% done. It will probably never be "done" but it is very close to driving.:)
    This is what it looked like when I had first started this build. It was very faded, had lots and lots of rock chips, and to many little dings to count. And a blown motor:banghead:


    Anyway all of this really started when I had blown my stock motor with 170k on it. A few friends and I didn't really know why it blew at first. But after looking through logs through ecmlink. It was determined that my CAS sensor failed at roughly 6000rpm at 30psi on a holset he351ve variable geometry turbo. And with this it had knocked and bent a rod fairly bad, the worst I've seen on a blown motor. And that's pretty much where this begins.


    Here's the before/after of the motor when it was getting pulled. And at this time I still was unsure how bad the damage really was.


    I had already blew the trans up a couple years ago. At that point I had sent it to shep and the diagnosis was the center diff exploded and wrecked a-lot of the trans. So I had them do the stage 3 and added a couple extra things as-well. So I guess what I would call it a stage 3.5. We'll that ended up blowing through the case 5,000 miles after. So called shep and they worked very professionally with me and rebuilt it for the cost of parts.


    After I had taken the motor out I looked at the sub-frame and knew that it had to come and get cleaned up. And I always wanted to get rid of abs and I had finally ripped that out here as-well. Once all of that was pulled and I took a good look under-neath the car. I decided everything had to come down the rear sub-frame, gas tank, exhaust, abs, ect. The car was in a little bit worst shape than I thought it was.
    And now here are all of the after pictures, Everything was painted gloss black and then cleared with automotive clear I had laying around.

    I also had done just a little bit of polishing on the back of the diff cover.

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  2. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    And After seeing everything off the car and the bottom getting prepped for under-body coating. I figured I should fix the rust that is on the car. And prep it for getting painted, which I've been trying to do for a few years now. When I started I figured I had just some rust on the rockers and that would be about it. Man did I think wrong, this car was covered in it. Behind the rear bumper, the whole rear end pretty much, including inside the rear trunk area. I had done part of the engine bay a couple winters ago. But the other side finally had poked it's way through. Since I was in their and I was already welding some stuff up. I stitch welded the bay up ground it down. Then through a little bit of body fill over everything so it would be nice and smooth.


    Some of the rust that was removed in the process.

    My e-brake was always pretty crappy, so I went ahead and re-built them ground up. New cables, pads, stainless brake lines from proportioning valve to all four wheels. Braided stainless lines, e-brake spring kit, all the goodies but big brakes pretty much. I might upgrade in the coming years, I guess we'll see.


    I had thermal R&D exhaust on the car for a few years now. I was getting tired of how it sounded and needed to get a change. I knew that I didn't want to go out of the front bumper. And I really didn't want to run exhaust all the way to the back either. So whats the next best thing to do when the front or back doesn't work. You guessed it I went through the side skirt on the drivers side of the car. But I didn't go underneath it, I went right on through it. It took a fair amount of fab to get it where I wanted. And have it not melt the gas tank, or burn up my bum when I'm driving down the road. And it was kinda convenient, the car had a good amount of rust their and it had to be cut out anyway.


    And finally after all the fabrication was done underneath the car. I went ahead and painted it all with rust inhibitor, then a layer of gloss black. Then I finally came through and laid a quick layer of clear over it all. Also did the gas tank shield at this time as-well.

  3. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    And here are some of the parts that were purchased and installed on the car. All of these weren't purchased at the same time. I was placing order's throughout the whole build process.


    And like I said before I really wanted to paint the car. So off the local PPG painters supply I went, and bought myself some body work goodies.

    And along with that I had chosen a color that I had wanted. I was gonna go with a tealish color, but in the end I stayed white. But it was the brightest possible white that I was able to get from the painters supply. I'm not gonna bore you guys to death with me rambling about body work. So I'll just post in order a bunch of pictures of everything that came along.
  4. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
  5. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan

    And here is how it is sitting right now, like I said previously it only needs a couple things to make it street worthy. And man am I freaking exciting to get this thing running.

    I'll post up the rest of the build tomorrow, I still have the engine build and some other shots as-well.
  6. sypherzero

    sypherzero Proven Member

    Joined Feb 14, 2008
    Marion, North Carolina
    Awesome build!!! I'd really like to hear a clip of how the exhaust sounds!

    Street Build 810  0

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi
    manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 880  0

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 2G DSM
  7. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    I have a clip from the first startup, ill try and get it posted later today when I get home.
  8. Purple_Demon

    Purple_Demon Proven Member

    Joined Oct 18, 2011
    Chillicothe, Ohio
    Very nice build. Love the attention to detail.

    Street Build 2K  0

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi
    manual · 2G DSM
  9. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Thank you. And a quick update, I worked in the car a bit over the weekend. And I got a lot of stuff wrapped up and I should be able to drive it tomorrow or the next day. Ill defiantly get a video or two of it running and driving. This will be the first time in about a year since it blew up that I'm going to be able to drive it. And I'm not gonna lie I'm pretty pumped to start driving it again.:)
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014
  10. PrimerPLus

    PrimerPLus Proven Member

    Joined Jul 28, 2011
    Tokyo, Asia
    Great work!
    Your engine bay is super clean and tucked. Did you do all the wire tucking yourself?
    The white and black look great.

    Street Build 2K  0

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
  11. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Thanks man I put a lot of blood and sweat to get it where it's at. And yea I did all the wire tucking myself, I still have a long way to go. I really want to make a new harness. There is a lot of extra wires sitting everywhere and that's just more weigh to save. And the old wire is just brittle and it frays really easy.

    And small update, but I have gotten the car mostly road worthy and driveable. I should have a video of the car running this weekend.
  12. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Well the video of it driving didn't happen this past weekend. Got everything ready and was lastly bleeding the brakes. And I found out my proportioning valve is junk, and one of my flares isn't seating right. So That's not to bad as I ran all new stainless steel brake lines to all four corners and from the master cylinder. Anway I have a proportioning valve on it's way already, so that should be the last thing to get this thing moving.
    And here is a link to my original build thread on dsmtalk, there is more detail and in depth on that thread.

    But I do have a video from the first start up a few weeks ago. The idle was bouncing between 350-500 in the video.
  13. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Well just wrapping up little odds and ends on the car. And just need to get my last parts I purchase in the mail, they should be here this weekend. I'm hoping it can be driven for the first time next week. But we'll see what happens and go from there.

    I was able to get it dropped to the ground and pushed outside for the first time since its been painted. :hellyeah:


    And I also just picked up that Gem next to it for $300 dollars. It runs drives and rolls coal when I want it to LOL. Its a Mercedes 300d Turbo diesel.
    miliman13 likes this.
  14. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    I got a pretty good update, since the car was dropped on the ground I really realized how crappy my suspension was. The driver's side of the car was sitting five and three quarter inch's off the ground. And the passenger side was sitting just over six and a half inch's. So with that being said I went ahead and ordered me a set of Megan street series coil-over's. With that order was a new knock sensor because mine was toast.

    Here are some comparison pictures and some pictures of them installed as-well. The red on these matched the bay really well too, it made the bay just a touch cleaner.


    I've managed to get the car to actually idle for more than a few seconds LOL. But on the downside I'm a little bit at a loss at the moment. The car will run if I give it some gas to keep it going, but not so much if I'm not pedaling it. I know the tune isn't probably the greatest, but there isn't any boost leaks. I'm gonna try and give a buddy a call to see if he'll come help out. But that'll be later this week. Anyway I need some help I'm kinda at the :dunno: stage right now. so I need ya'll to throw out some things to try out. I've gone through pretty much everything I can think of so far and well here I am LOL.

    Like I said I was able to get it to idle for a little bit and I was able to film it. But I forgot to save the log from it and need to try to get it going again.

  15. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Well I figured I should post up the build of the motor since talking about it doesn't do much justice. So here it goes enjoy, give some feedback if you'd like.

    First I painted the block with por-15, and then took some clear left over from the car. And put a couple coats on it to really make it shine. And since I had the paint out I also decided that I would go crazy. And I painted the oil pan, cross-member, coolant housings and water pipe, turbo housing, and lastly all the motor mounts. And I again took the clear I had left over and laid a nice coat on everything.


    And I had ordered the balance shaft eliminator kit that came with new bearings, stub shaft and plug. The balance shaft really does work very well for re-moving the old bearings. I did some looking online and found that information on many different threads. And then I just used a socket I had sitting around that fit perfect to install the bearings.


    I was in the garage getting ready to port open my oil filter housing. When a friend of mine stopped by and offered to go to his place and open it up. He has done multiple housings prior and had nice bits to open up the bore.


    After scrubbing the block a few times, I finally was ready to get the torque plate attached and torque down. Once I was done doing that, the fun stuff was about to begin. And what I thought I would zip though in a quick hour or two. I ended up just taking my time with a six pack, and it took a little less than five hours. I mean I had to eat in between also. But before that, I grabbed the calculator. And it was time to start crunching some numbers for the ring gaps. At first I was just going to use one of the recommended gaps that Wiseco had sent. But after talking to Tim (A great machinist and good friend) who had helped assemble the head. We came up with a different Gap that would be a little more appropriate for my setup and over-all goal. And finally after a few phone calls, it was really just up to me to pull the trigger and go cut some rings.

    Here were the original gaps that I had pulled from the paper Wiseco sent.

    I ended up doing a mix of the full race and the strip gaps. Also after a little research on the internet I felt comfortable with the gaps. I did .19 on the top ring, and on the bottom I did .23. And here is what the table ended up looking like after everything was done and I was in clean-up mode.


    Using the feeler gauge to make sure it was the correct size.

    I assembled my pistons and rods inside where it was very clean and neat.
  16. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Here are the ACL grooved bearing's in place ready for the crank to be dropped in. And the main cradle with the bearings in and all lubed up. And I also had cleaned the crank three times before dropped in.


    I didn't get individual pictures of each piston being torqued in. It didn't cross my mind. But here is the bottom end assembled/torqued down to all of ARP specs and ARP Torque grease.


    What I had cut the rings with.


    Finally the short block was all finished and I was ready to do another clean up. And lay out all the parts that were going on to the motor. And built the oil pump, used the plug for blocking off the balance shaft.

  17. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    When I first got this turbo installed and was getting ready to build the exhaust. It was very noticeable that I was going to need a forward facing oil filter housing. And that I was going to need to relocate the alternator to the back of the motor. And at the time I had a bit more of a budget. So purchasing a relocation kit was out of the question. With that being that I knew I was going to have to make my own. I cut up brackets, thick bolts and other misc. metal to get this perfectly lined up. And added a pulley to put the bracket, to push the belt further way from the timing belt cover. Here is what I had come up with, it works great and it is easy to tighten the belt.


    With everything all buttoned up and the long block finished. All I had to do from there was drop the motor into the engine bay. And this also gives a good idea what the turbo housing looked like before it was painted.

    Here's the new charge pipe I made with the new Tial flange and GM IAT flange.

    Here are some of the -4 vacuum lines that were run throughout the engine bay. I also have two more ports that are off of the turbo manifold it-self. And I also had a lot of -6AN line sitting around so I used all of it to run the coolant lines to the turbo, and to the throttle body.


    And here are some more random pictures of the bay when I was doing some wiring.


    And here is the final build list that the car is at as of now. I'm sure that I'm going to be adding stuff here and there as this progresses so keep your eye out. I got many more plans for this car. :)

    Wiseco .20 over 10:5:1 Piston's
    2.0 Manley Forged crank
    Eagle H-beam rods
    ACL Rod bearings
    ACL grooved main bearings
    JMF torque plate
    ARP Main Studs, Align honed
    ARP L-19 head studs
    ARP Cam Gear bolts
    AEM Cam gears
    Clear Timing belt cover
    kelford 276/272's
    kiggly bee-hive springs/retainers
    Revised 3g Lifters
    Block and Head decked
    Cometic MLS Head Gasket
    OEM Oil pump
    OEM BSE kit
    All OEM Gaskets throughout the motor build
    New Dip stick tube, and stick
    OEM MLS exhaust manifold gasket
    Custom Alternator relocation to rear of motor.
    Forward facing oil filter housing
    All -6AN water lines
    All -4AN vacuum lines
    1g blacktop CAS
    New OEM harmonic balancer
    ARP Harmonic balancer bolt/washer
    New OEM heater core

    Holset HE351VE Variable Geometry turbo
    3" turbo back Stainless steel exhaust to a 3" Magna-flow muffler all V-band
    FP 4" intake pipe
    Cheap Exhaust manifold for now.
    JMF Race intake manifold
    S90 70mm Throttle body
    Tial 50mm Q BOV
    Turbonetics 38mm waste-gate
    ETS 2g Super short route intercooler 26x12x3
    All Custom made 2.5" inter-cooler pipe
    Custom catch can with -6AN fittings
    STM -6 push in fitting for valve cover
    -6AN lines ran from valve cover to catch can
    MSD spark plug wires
    Speed density
    ECMlink v3

    Stage 3 shep trans/With a few extra misc. add on's.
    Rebuild transfer-case
    Rebuild Rear Diff.
    New Carrier bearings
    New U-joints
    New Drive-shaft Yolk
    OEM Pivot ball/Throw out bearing
    OEM Clutch fork
    Megan Racing Street series coil overs
    ACT 2600/Sprung 6 puck disk
    All stainless brake line ran from proportioning valve to Braided stainless brake lines. Also got rid of abs for NON abs.
    New OEM brake calipers front and rear.
    New E-brake cables
    OEM e-brake pads
    Rebuild kit for E-brake
    OEM rear axle boots both inner/outer on both sides
    EBC slotted rotors front/rear
    EBC Red stuff pads front/rear
    Prothane Total bushing kit
    Moog upper ball joints
    Moog Tie rod ends
    Rebuild rack and pinion
    Rebuilt Power steering pump.
    Stainless coolant over-flow container
    9" K&N filter
    OEM thermostat and o-ring
    Mishimoto radiator cap
    Aluminum 3 core race intercooler
    Twin 1250CFM Slim fans

    Deatshworks 320lph fuel pump
    1250cc injectors
    Aeromotive FPR
    -6AN Feed
    -6AN Return
    Fuel Lab 818 Fuel filter
    Fuel Lab 40 Micron stainless steel Fuel Filter
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2013
  18. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Man did I just hit another set back LOL. I got all the boost leaks all buttoned up and was re-doing the pressure test. And since I plan on going to high 30's I redid the test and got to somewhere in the low 30's and BOOM. My intercooler literally blew open in 5 spots, there may be more but its still mounted in the car. When I pull it we will see how bad it really is.

    So with that BS happening I just figured it was another chance to upgrade to bigger and better parts. And I'm pretty glad it happened at home and not on the expressway or in the middle of a pull. So I ordered a ETS super short route 26x12x3" intercooler core with no piping. Which should be good enough for this setup and probably anything I'm going to have on the car in the future. So I think once that comes in I will be able to finally tune it up and see how it really runs and drives.
  19. Boost Demon

    Boost Demon Proven Member

    Joined Jan 2, 2006
    Tampa, Florida
    Nice project, sorry to hear about the setback:barf:. What intercooler were you running? What size ETS core you going with?

    1K  0

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    10.810 @ 134.010 · 2G DSM
  20. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    I'm not to sure what the brand the old one is, it could possibly be a old vrsf intercooler. I've had installed that one on the car when I got it about 4 years ago. And at that time I had bought it used and it was beat up. but it has defiantly served it's purpose for many years.

    So the new one that I purchased from ETS is the 3" thick core. And it is there super short route intercooler for the 2g, and is dimensions are 26x12x3.
  21. rvaughn

    rvaughn Proven Member

    Joined Apr 29, 2008
    Portland, Oregon
    Nice build man, I am really diggin the side exit exhaust, it adds just the right amount of extra flare IMO.
  22. iugrad92turbo

    iugrad92turbo Proven Member

    Joined May 22, 2007
    Kalamazoo, Michigan
    Nice build working on my body right now among other things gonna decide on paint color for next year good clean setup, love the turbo.

    1K  1

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM

    6K  4

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  23. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Thanks man, I defiantly was looking for something different and more my style. And I'm really happy with how it came out with looks and sound.

    Thank you, and I agree this turbo is pretty cool. A little more of a hassle to tune with but pretty fun over all. Do you have a build thread going?
  24. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Just got the tracking number today, I should be reciving my ets core thursday. So tomorrow I'm gonna rip all the old sh** outta there and get ready to pop the new one in and get the first drive in this thing.
  25. maximum9898

    maximum9898 Proven Member

    Joined Feb 24, 2008
    Macomb, Michigan
    Well I got the intercooler in last week. And I'm very impressed with the quality of metal and welds on this core. The aluminum on this core is far greater quatlity that the cheap junk I had installed previously. Just picking it up I could feel the weight difference on them. And between work and classes I found some time to get the old core one ripped out. It had blown open in 3 spots, one of the spots had already been bent in and fins all jacked up. Then the other two spots had actually blown open at the top where the bolts screw into. When I was pulling it out I seen those two spots right away. I'm quite sure that is where I heard the big explosion from the metal bashing into the bolts. But anyway with that old junk out of the place, I mocked up the new ets core where I wanted it to sit. Marked some holes on the supplied mounts drilled some holes and good to go. I just had to cut about 6 inches off my upper charge pipe to make everything fit perfect.


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