97 GST Engine is knocking alot worse (Video/Update)

[Falcon55]

Now I have made 2 previous threads on this matter (Another Eclipse takes a crankwalk dive! and Engine is knocking *Video* (Possible Crankwalk)), both of which have been locked due to controversy and unforeseen crankwalk arguments, which an argument in the second thread involved me. Due to the argument, I was temporarily suspended for 10 days but now i'm back and I apologize. Due to hands on experience during the time being banned, talking to people and research, I doubt it was crankwalk. So I retract my previous arguments with you 2 users (you both know who you are) and apologize for raising false arguments as well. Although I did have crankwalk symptoms prior in my car, I doubt this was a case of crankwalk. What I don't seem to understand though, is how I was the only user banned throughout the whole fiasco, while I didn't entirely start the argument or add fuel to it.

But w/e, that's in the past so what's done is done.

On with the videos of my engine knocking:

YouTube - Mitsubishi Eclipse 2G DSM, Crankwalk? (Cell Phone Footage)

That was cellphone footage, sorry. Here is better digi-cam footage:

YouTube - Mitsubishi Eclipse 2G DSM, Crankwalk? Pt. 3 (Engine Rev)

Any opinions on the videos? Now onto why my engine is knocking alot worse, is I had to drive my car to college last monday morning (i'm a full time college student, so now I get rides from my cousin to take me to college in the mornings). That morning, my cousin wasn't awake, so it was either take my car like that or miss class that day. I didn't want to miss and I thought "what do I have to lose?"

I took it and made it safe, engine was still knocking. But on the way back, my cousin was awake by then, so he followed me and it broke down near the same exact spot it first originally broke down (near the I-95 loop). I put more oil in the engine, it was hard to crank up but I finally manage and try to make it to my mechanic (home was further but I doubt I was going to make it there). By that time, the engine made extremely loud knocking noises, big attention grabber. Everyone was looking. At that point, I called my cousin who was in the car behind mine, and I told him "I'm riding this bi*** to the mechanic all the way until the wheels fall off, what is there to lose?" Well I finally made it, my mechanic was surprised my engine didn't seize yet since it was knocking hard as hell and louder than ever, but didn't give away yet. That was funny.

So now my car is nearly dead, over at the mechanics awaiting an engine swap, .

 

[jdd1231]

Well have the mechanic yank the oil pan off and inspect those rods & bearings. Will be interesting to see what you find. From listening to that vid,it definitely sounded like a crank/rod related knock.

 

[Nihad]

sounds bad start looking for a diffrent 4g63

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

Yeah sure does like a spun rod bearing...crankwalk is overrated.

 

[Backinajiffy12]

Sounds more like rod knocking to me rather than crankwalk. to see if it is crankwalk something to try is drive is a tight cuircle and if you here a tic tic tic tic tic then its most likely crankwalk.

 

[Falcon55]

Yeah, I know the crankwalk technique. To drive a tight circle to the left and if the clutch pedal sinks in, you may have crankwalk. Although I did experience this symptom in the past, I doubt my engine is messed up due to crankwalk. I would bet I had a oil leak, spun a bearing (or maybe even weared the bearing down thin enough) and caused rod knock.

Even if I try to drive in a tight left circle to listen to ticking sounds, I doubt my car will do it without stalling at this moment. The type of condition my car was last in, before getting to the mechanic, was when pressing in the clutch, weather in gear or not, the car would stall. If the car is in neutral, if I don't give it gas, it will stall. It was very annoying. I'm assuming it was the highway which finally nearly killed off my rod knocking motor, .

I'd be willing to bet that while going 65MPH at around 3,000 RPMs sometimes in diff gears on the highway, heading to class and back that day... That was enough stress to cause my rod knocking engine to almost explode, . At least I thought it would.

 

[TeeWX98GST]

I would put my money on it that you have a spun rod bearing. It's a very easy and cheap fix to replace it though if its just one. You may even choose to replace them all at once. Drop the oil first and disconnect your turbo drain pipe. Then just jack up your car as normal and remove your oil pan (take note as to where each screw goes as they are not all the same length). You may or may not have to remove your tranny dust cover to remove the oil pan. Once that is off you can remove the lower belt cover and get a 1/2 in ratchet to go on the end of the pulley and you can crank over the engine by hand and check out the bearings. Test them by seeing if you can wiggle the rod around by hand, if it moves at all you have a spun bearing. Just make sure that your crankshaft did not see too much heat by inspecting it for discoloration and scoring. If you luck out you'll end up with a very cheap fix here and be back on the road with new bearings in no time. Just take it easy for the next 5-600 miles if thats the case. And of course make sure you get everything back together and torqued to specs and seal up your oil pan with a gasket maker of some sort, 2g's don't use oil pan gaskets.

 

[nate379]

I must be deaf or something cause I don't hear any knocking in those vids.

 

[Falcon55]

I would put my money on it that you have a spun rod bearing. It's a very easy and cheap fix to replace it though if its just one. You may even choose to replace them all at once. Drop the oil first and disconnect your turbo drain pipe. Then just jack up your car as normal and remove your oil pan (take note as to where each screw goes as they are not all the same length). You may or may not have to remove your tranny dust cover to remove the oil pan. Once that is off you can remove the lower belt cover and get a 1/2 in ratchet to go on the end of the pulley and you can crank over the engine by hand and check out the bearings. Test them by seeing if you can wiggle the rod around by hand, if it moves at all you have a spun bearing. Just make sure that your crankshaft did not see too much heat by inspecting it for discoloration and scoring. If you luck out you'll end up with a very cheap fix here and be back on the road with new bearings in no time. Just take it easy for the next 5-600 miles if thats the case. And of course make sure you get everything back together and torqued to specs and seal up your oil pan with a gasket maker of some sort, 2g's don't use oil pan gaskets.

DAMN bro! Sounds good to me, I would say that your post so far is the best feedback I have received so far from all 3 of my threads on this engine knocking problem. Thanks man!

For sure i'm going to mention that to my mechanic tomorrow... But, one problem. Like I said in my topic post, I just ran my car to school and back on the highway that one day, basically f***ing up my engine alot worse. So my engine doesn't sound like that video above anymore, it's alot louder, harder and grabs attention big time. Sounds like my engine will give any minute. So shouldn't that alone have messed up the crankshaft? Also lets assume I drop the pan and take a look beneath, I see nothing visibly wrong with the crankshaft, then change all the bearings. Wouldn't they give away again in the next 500 miles or so due to my crankshaft wearing them down once again, from the additional damage that was done to me putting more stress on a knocking motor on the road?

 

[DSMopar]

so he followed me and it broke down near the same exact spot it first originally broke down (near the I-95 loop). I put more oil in the engine

Have we still not learned what caused you to loose a rod bearing in the first place?

DAMN bro! Sounds good to me, I would say that your post so far is the best feedback I have received so far from all 3 of my threads on this engine knocking problem. Thanks man!

So... the best feedback is basically what you want to hear? Just throwing bearings in a busted motor is the cheapest shade tree repair you could do. Typically left for $200 beaters, if that's how you feel about your car then fine. Rest assured there's more than a simple rod bearing problem with your motor, you've been circulating debris through it this whole time, all the lubricated components have possible damage (particularly your oil pump). Toasting a bearing = complete rebuild period. Do yourself a favor, do as we originally suggested and just find a used motor and toss it in, it'll be much cheaper in the end.

 

[Burnett03]

Did we really need 3x posts on the same issue from you? Ummm probably not.

 

[ArcaineGST]

It sounds like yes, it is most likely a rod bearing. Do what TeeWX98GST suggests as it is very easy to do. Mine sounded similar if not worse when I did mine. I see that your clutch is still stock but sit in the car when it is running and push in the clutch. Does the sound get significantly quieter? Or stay the same? If it gets quieter your problem could be in the clutch/flywheel and you may need to pull off the trany (fun fun).

And an FYI - this forum is filled with information and help from those who have gone through the same or similar problems in the past. So arguing with someone who is trying to help you doesn't help anyone. It may be frustrating yes, but keep searching, reading, and listening to those who can help. I still consider myself a amateur in the dsm world even though everything done to my car I did myself.

Good luck. Hope everything comes out good and you didn't ruin too much. Let see some pics when you find out the problem. Some destroyed parts are always nice to look at.

 

[mikelv]

I must have missed a question in the beginning of this thread.

You drove your car low on oil and blew it up?

Maybe you should post this in the hangout, since is sounds like you're telling a story of how you blew it up then took it to a mechanic.

Nothing to knock you, just read before posting. This forum is intended for the community to ask about problems they are having with their vehicles and to seek other's advice on how to maintain and work on them. Not to tell your stories.

Welcome to DSMtuners - DSMtuners

Good luck with everything.

 

[JusMX141]

Due to the argument, I was temporarily suspended for 10 days but now i'm back and I apologize. Due to hands on experience during the time being banned, talking to people and research, I doubt it was crankwalk. So I retract my previous arguments with you 2 users (you both know who you are) and apologize for raising false arguments as well. Although I did have crankwalk symptoms prior in my car, I doubt this was a case of crankwalk. What I don't seem to understand though, is how I was the only user banned throughout the whole fiasco, while I didn't entirely start the argument or add fuel to it.

Pfffft....Here we go again.

You were probably banned because of the arguments you started with myself and other members bragging about what an expert you are at identifying crankwalk, yet couldn't confirm it on your own car.

Knocking doesn't just go away, my friend. I suppose my question would be....WHY ARE YOU STILL DRIVING THE CAR?


I'm still unsure of the point of this thread. I suppose the lesson learned here is if you run a car without oil, it will blow up. Who woulda thought?

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[mikelv]

Pfffft....Here we go again.

You were probably banned because of the arguments you started with myself and other members bragging about what an expert you are at idenifying crankwalk, yet couldn't confirm it on your own car.

Knocking doesn't just go away, my friend. I suppose my question would be....WHY ARE YOU STILL DRIVING THE CAR?


I'm still unsure of the point of this thread. I suppose the lesson learned here is if you run a car without oil, it will blow up. Who woulda thought?

+1

LMFAO

I asked the same question. The answer is there is no point to this thread, no question about anything was stated, plus he took it to a mechanic anyway.
Why isn't this thread in the Hangout if anywhere? This doesn't belong in a problem forum. Problem forums are for guys who don't know what's wrong with their cars, or why....those who want to understand and achieve automotive repair. Not tell a story about how they didn't run any oil in thier car, and it blew up....

 

[vanilla gorilla]

New bearings isnt going to fix that. You might could have got away with it if you would have stopped the car as soon as you noticed the noise. But as this point, your motor is a boat anchor.

 

[TeeWX98GST]

New bearings isnt going to fix that. You might could have got away with it if you would have stopped the car as soon as you noticed the noise. But as this point, your motor is a boat anchor.

You might be right on this one. However I have put a quite a few bearings into cars that did the same thing and they've been running on just 1 new bearing for 10k or more and been issue free with knocking and engine problems. However I'm not sure about his driving on the engine with it knocking that bad. Usually when you blow a bearing like that you'll hear it bigtime and at that point you need to turn the car off at a moments notice and get a tow truck out there or you could easily damage your crank where the bearing seats.

I would suggest if you pull it apart and find no metal shavings and your crank looks normal still you could be okay just replacing the bearing. But definately take it easy for the next 500 miles minimum. No boost! And then if she still runs strong take it apart again the way I told you earlier and inspect the rods again and check for shavings, also do a compression check to make sure you haven't done any damage up top with the contaminated oil thats been running thruogh your engine.

I am sorry to tell you this but from running the car with the knock you may have furthered the damage beyond simple repair. Most damage happens over time, the shorter the amount of time you give it, the less damage can be done. For example, if you put a nail inside your oil pan and run it your going to do catastrophic damage. But if you put the same nail in the oil pan and put it together and you never run it or it only turns over a few times your probably not going to do anything. Please note that the nail is just a metaphor and if anyone seriously does that I take no responsibility and there is no hope.

Oh and, good luck! You'll want that on your side this time.

Might I add in. Engines don't usually just blow bearings, if thats the case I would have expected you at least lost oil in your car or ran it low for a period of time, if it was full on oil and this happened I would suspect a much deeper issue.

 

[DSMopar]

You might be right on this one. However I have put a quite a few bearings into cars that did the same thing and they've been running on just 1 new bearing for 10k or more and been issue free with knocking and engine problems. However I'm not sure about his driving on the engine with it knocking that bad. Usually when you blow a bearing like that you'll hear it bigtime and at that point you need to turn the car off at a moments notice and get a tow truck out there or you could easily damage your crank where the bearing seats.

I would suggest if you pull it apart and find no metal shavings and your crank looks normal still you could be okay just replacing the bearing. But definately take it easy for the next 500 miles minimum. No boost! And then if she still runs strong take it apart again the way I told you earlier and inspect the rods again and check for shavings, also do a compression check to make sure you haven't done any damage up top with the contaminated oil thats been running thruogh your engine.

I am sorry to tell you this but from running the car with the knock you may have furthered the damage beyond simple repair. Most damage happens over time, the shorter the amount of time you give it, the less damage can be done. For example, if you put a nail inside your oil pan and run it your going to do catastrophic damage. But if you put the same nail in the oil pan and put it together and you never run it or it only turns over a few times your probably not going to do anything. Please note that the nail is just a metaphor and if anyone seriously does that I take no responsibility and there is no hope.

Oh and, good luck! You'll want that on your side this time.

Might I add in. Engines don't usually just blow bearings, if thats the case I would have expected you at least lost oil in your car or ran it low for a period of time, if it was full on oil and this happened I would suspect a much deeper issue.

Can we give this guy a 'shade tree mechanic' title?

 

[TeeWX98GST]

Can we give this guy a 'shade tree mechanic' title?

I think someone is over reacting.

And as for your earlier post about toasting a bearing needing a complete rebuild period. If that is true then alot of certified mechanics have lied to me, but maybe you are right. This guy probably did the wrong thing here by running on it while it was damaged even if he was taking it to a mechanic to get fixed, but we all make mistakes, you don't have to bra beat him for it.

 

[GSTyler]

From what I can hear in the video, it sounds just like when I had a spun rod bearing in my 7 bolt. A very loud persistent annoying knock.

 

[Falcon55]

Toasting a bearing = complete rebuild period. Do yourself a favor, do as we originally suggested and just find a used motor and toss it in, it'll be much cheaper in the end.

Nah, I know. An engine swap was the first idea I ever went with before making any of these threads. I already called someone who is selling a 7-bolt motor (new timing belt, no sludge and was tested to run great) for around $600 (the first 99 GST motor I wanted was already sold) and he's local down here in Miami too, i'm going to check out the motor on Monday. He'll even ship it to my mechanic for free. So that's the best deal I have so far.

And an FYI - this forum is filled with information and help from those who have gone through the same or similar problems in the past. So arguing with someone who is trying to help you doesn't help anyone. It may be frustrating yes, but keep searching, reading, and listening to those who can help. I still consider myself a amateur in the dsm world even though everything done to my car I did myself.

Good luck. Hope everything comes out good and you didn't ruin too much. Let see some pics when you find out the problem. Some destroyed parts are always nice to look at.

Yeah I hear ya, thanks for the advice!

Pfffft....Here we go again.

You were probably banned because of the arguments you started with myself and other members bragging about what an expert you are at identifying crankwalk, yet couldn't confirm it on your own car.

Knocking doesn't just go away, my friend. I suppose my question would be....WHY ARE YOU STILL DRIVING THE CAR?


I'm still unsure of the point of this thread. I suppose the lesson learned here is if you run a car without oil, it will blow up. Who woulda thought?

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Nah, that's not why I was banned. Defiant recently pm'd me to let me know. I was banned due to mildly swearing at DSMopar and I already apologized to defiant, . As for why I drove the car, put yourself in my situation... I had to man, I had no choice. It was either take my car like that or miss class (which isn't good for an attendance policy in college). I was going to swap my engine anyway, so I guess it didn't really matter if my engine got worse.

New bearings isnt going to fix that. You might could have got away with it if you would have stopped the car as soon as you noticed the noise. But as this point, your motor is a boat anchor.

!!! Damn, it's sad but true, haha!

Might I add in. Engines don't usually just blow bearings, if thats the case I would have expected you at least lost oil in your car or ran it low for a period of time, if it was full on oil and this happened I would suspect a much deeper issue.

Yeah, that's 100% true, that's exactly what happened. I lost oil and spun a bearing, similar to how GSTyler stated he spun a bearing on his 7-bolt to the post above this one.

Can we give this guy a 'shade tree mechanic' title?

I think someone is over reacting.

And as for your earlier post about toasting a bearing needing a complete rebuild period. If that is true then alot of certified mechanics have lied to me, but maybe you are right. This guy probably did the wrong thing here by running on it while it was damaged even if he was taking it to a mechanic to get fixed, but we all make mistakes, you don't have to bra beat him for it.

True that. I even had to drive my car to my mechanic to try to get a solution to my problem before I took it out that second time I messed it up. I didn't just drive it around for nothing. There are some users here on DSMtuners that have a tendency of over reacting a little, it's a bit annoying. But at least I learned how to deal with it.

 

[Littlebeeper]

some people do overeact. being that you ran your car after the knocking started and its knocking bad now your right in getting another engine (or rebuilding your current one from the ground up if the crank passes inspection). I had a bearing go out too. i'm sure it was to high boost and high RPM. i had no boost controller in an Auto 1G with a 14b swap. I didn't do it but i warned the guy i sold it to. he proceeded to hit the highway and see what the car had. called me less that an hour after he took it that the car died and now its knocking. and i was dumb enough to give him his money back (man i'm a nice guy ). anyway, i drove it as little as possible, my car only knocked at 2000 RPM. i opened her up, the rod on #2 was paper thin. i replaced it, cleaned everything out, inpected the crank and everything went back fine. It is possible to just replace a bearing that went bad. its usually far beyond damaged to do it such as in your case i doubt its possible, but sometimes it is. some people believe you should just do the whole engine after a spun bearing, hey if you want to its your preference. i like Budweiser, other like Budlight, others like Coors or Miller. all are still getting drunk on alcohol, just your preference. it is better to do the whole rebuild but maybe a $5 bearing works too. my engine has the balance shafts off and head done and perfect compression. i figured an hour and a $5 bearing is worth a shot......and Knock on wood, she's running again.

ok enough with the rant. good luck on getting the swap done. bottom line is your a DSMer thats not letting engine trouble get you or your car down. Thats what its all about,,,,,,,,,now i would proof read but my other hand is still holding that Bud i mentioned earlier

 

[JusMX141]

A customer bought a crank kit for a '95 Civic at my workplace a few weeks ago, and just returned the old crankshaft core the other day. It apparently spun a rod bearing on journal #3, and it scored the crank journal so badly that it was discolored blue and was nearly .015" smaller than the other three journals. There's NO WAY changing the rod bearing alone would've fixed that thing.

The bearings are there as a buffer in case something goes wrong. They're soft, and intended to damage easily in order to save the crankshaft in the event that a piece of foreign metal reaches the crankshaft....however, if the engine has been deprived of oil, often the bearings are actually what damages the crankshaft.


They key thing to remember here is that rod bearings don't just fail on their own. Sure an engine with high miles may have some bearing wear, but when you're talking about a rod bearing with enough tolerance to allow it to *make noise*, something has gone wrong. Either you ran the car out of oil, something's clogging the oil passages in the crank, the oil pump is failing, or you have a stuck injector or extremely rich tune that is flooding the crankcase with fuel and ruining the oil's film strength.

 

[Falcon55]

Damn Justin, on that last paragraph... That's some indepth sh*t there, . Some of it was a lil too much for my knowledge to comprehend, such as the fuel running extremely rich and flooding the crankcase with fuel.

some people do overeact. being that you ran your car after the knocking started and its knocking bad now your right in getting another engine (or rebuilding your current one from the ground up if the crank passes inspection). I had a bearing go out too. i'm sure it was to high boost and high RPM. i had no boost controller in an Auto 1G with a 14b swap. I didn't do it but i warned the guy i sold it to. he proceeded to hit the highway and see what the car had. called me less that an hour after he took it that the car died and now its knocking. and i was dumb enough to give him his money back (man i'm a nice guy ). anyway, i drove it as little as possible, my car only knocked at 2000 RPM. i opened her up, the rod on #2 was paper thin. i replaced it, cleaned everything out, inpected the crank and everything went back fine. It is possible to just replace a bearing that went bad. its usually far beyond damaged to do it such as in your case i doubt its possible, but sometimes it is. some people believe you should just do the whole engine after a spun bearing, hey if you want to its your preference. i like Budweiser, other like Budlight, others like Coors or Miller. all are still getting drunk on alcohol, just your preference. it is better to do the whole rebuild but maybe a $5 bearing works too. my engine has the balance shafts off and head done and perfect compression. i figured an hour and a $5 bearing is worth a shot......and Knock on wood, she's running again.

ok enough with the rant. good luck on getting the swap done. bottom line is your a DSMer thats not letting engine trouble get you or your car down. Thats what its all about,,,,,,,,,now i would proof read but my other hand is still holding that Bud i mentioned earlier

! That's an excellent post bro! Your post actually made my night, seriously!

 

[GODOFTHEAUTO]

I have just caught my turbo 6 bolt engine starting to knock. I stopped it let it cool and for the #2 bearing bad, spun!!! other that the bearing nothing else looks damaged. I had this happen to a SBC 350 in a 88 TA and cleaned it's lube system out and checked sizes and the rod was at it's max tolerance but replaced just the bearing anyway.....in 2002, It has gone 100 k miles and still doesn't knock.
I guess this is something to give others hope and I'll see if it works in the DSM also.