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97 4G63T in a 93?

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fourgsixthree33

15+ Year Contributor
1,244
46
Oct 25, 2010
Athens, Pennsylvania
I just encountered rod knock in my 93 tsi awd 7 bolt. I have been looking around for the last week or so for a new short block. Found a few good deals on 97+ complete short blocks. I plan to use my 1G 7 bolt rebuild head and need to know if I can use the 97+ short block in my 93 with my 1G 7 bolt head.
 
I think you will run into some motor mount issues but I don't see where you would have any problems with using a 1g head on a 2g block but I would hold out till someone with some more experience on that combo chimes in because there may be a trick to it I don't know. But I have seen 2g guys that used a 1g head on their 2g block before and I have seen 6 bolt swaps that used a 2g head.
 
I figured I would have to swap engine mounts or something as they would definitely be an issue. What issues are there on putting a 7 bolt head on a 6 bolt block? Reason I ask is because I would love to have a 6 bolt but I am stuck with a new rebuilt 7 bolt head. So unless I sold it, I would be losing out on the money I put into the head.
 
I figured I would have to swap engine mounts or something as they would definitely be an issue. What issues are there on putting a 7 bolt head on a 6 bolt block? Reason I ask is because I would love to have a 6 bolt but I am stuck with a new rebuilt 7 bolt head. So unless I sold it, I would be losing out on the money I put into the head.

Why wouldnt you want to put a 2g head on a 6 bolt block? That's what I did. The 2g head flows better.
 
I figured I would have to swap engine mounts or something as they would definitely be an issue. What issues are there on putting a 7 bolt head on a 6 bolt block? Reason I ask is because I would love to have a 6 bolt but I am stuck with a new rebuilt 7 bolt head. So unless I sold it, I would be losing out on the money I put into the head.

I have a 7bolt engine out of my 93 awd, not sure if I want to sell it or put it in the stock gs-t I have to get it sold. Shoot me an offer.

Why wouldnt you want to put a 2g head on a 6 bolt block? That's what I did. The 2g head flows better.

He has a 1G 7-bolt head, which utilizes the same ports as a 1G, but not the same head studs as a 6-bolt, they are smaller. The 2G head does flow extremely well though. :thumb:
 
You would have to use your 1g 7 bolt head. Cause the 2g uses a actual crank sensor right?
As you know the 1g uses the Cam sensor as both a cam and crank. It controls both fuel and spark.
The 2g block will have a different timing tensioner and water pump I know for sure. So try to get that included with the purchase of the block. The 1g 7 bolt's do have a little bit different stuff in the front side on the timing system, location and bolt wise.
 
You would have to use your 1g 7 bolt head. Cause the 2g uses a actual crank sensor right?
As you know the 1g uses the Cam sensor as both a cam and crank. It controls both fuel and spark.
The 2g block will have a different timing tensioner and water pump I know for sure. So try to get that included with the purchase of the block. The 1g 7 bolt's do have a little bit different stuff in the front side on the timing system, location and bolt wise.

It's not necessary to use a 1G 7-bolt head. Yes, a 2G uses separate cam and crank sensors while the 1G crams the two into one unit (I will refer to it as a cam sensor since it sits on the cams), but you can bolt the 1G cam sensor to the 2G head without issue.

You will run into an issue with the front roll stopper bracket and how there is no place on the 2G block to bolt it up. If a 2G transmission is used, a custom mount can be fabricated to bolt up to it and the original 1G mounting location. Or you may be able to weld the 1G bracket to the 2G block somehow, also keeping the original 1G mounting location. Or you might also consider running a very stiff/solid firewall-side mount (at the very least, if not a whole set) and doing without the front mount all together.
 
It's not that I want to use a 1G 7 bolt head. It is because I HAVE to use it since I bought it new for $340. I am stuck with it. If it wasn't for me having bought this head, I would be doing a 6 bolt swap.

Sounds like I will have alot of issues with the engine mounts. Which would be the best way to go about fabricating the mounts?

Or should I just replace all the internals in the engine I have now?
 
It's not that I want to use a 1G 7 bolt head. It is because I HAVE to use it since I bought it new for $340. I am stuck with it. If it wasn't for me having bought this head, I would be doing a 6 bolt swap.

I understand that. I was simply making a point to the other guy. You could also use the 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block if you wanted to. All that is needed is to bore out the head bolt holes large enough to accept the 6-bolt head bolts and allow for proper oiling to the head.

Sounds like I will have alot of issues with the engine mounts. Which would be the best way to go about fabricating the mounts?

The only mount you need to worry about is the front (exhaust-side) engine roll stopper bracket. Because it's fabricated and custom, there are unlimited possibilities! Again, this is something that would work if you are using a 2G transmission. The 1G transmission won't have any provisions for the mount to attach to. You might contact the guy who started this thread to find out what he did: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/393099-1g-6-bolt-transmission-1g-7bolt-motor.html.

Or should I just replace all the internals in the engine I have now?

Absolutely nothing wrong with that. That would be my choice if nothing is too beat up in the bottom end. It's ultimately up to you.
 
It's not that I want to use a 1G 7 bolt head. It is because I HAVE to use it since I bought it new for $340. I am stuck with it. If it wasn't for me having bought this head, I would be doing a 6 bolt swap.

Sounds like I will have alot of issues with the engine mounts. Which would be the best way to go about fabricating the mounts?

Or should I just replace all the internals in the engine I have now?

This is absolutely the perfect time to replace the internals in your engine and do a nice little forged setup... You can do some eagle or manley rods and a set of pistons of your choice. I would absolutely go that route if funds allow.
 
You could sell ## head or buy a 6 bolt short block an drop ## 7 bolt head on or rebuild ## 7 bolt short block put some forged in there or if u just need to get it running to drive as a daily rebuild wit all race bearings an re ring it an throw it all back together n boom a great driver. Or if u could find a complete 6 bolt block id run it. I love my 6 bolt.
 
Alright, so I decided that I will be rebuilding my current engine IF the bottom end isn't beat up beyond being worth fixing. Now I need some ideas on some internals. What are some cheaper forged assemblies? I might just get new stock internals due to my financial situation.

My plans are to keep this as a DD but I would like to be able to lay down a descent amount of power to. Upgrading my internals will allow to do more down the road.

Have never rebuilt an engine in a fuel injected engine so I have no idea what kind of upgraded internals are out there for 4G63's. What is somewhat cheap besides OEM internals?
 
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