2G '96 Eclipse GS Right Rear tire scraping

[wtfhaks]

Heyo. so as the title says, I have a scraping sound from my right rear wheel, and the right rear of my car is lower than the rest of my car.

We are looking at a 1996 (aug 95) Eclipse GS (FWD N/A, Manual trans)

This problem started a few months ago. It slowly progressed until it got as bad as it is now, and I finally decided to chase it down, as the fender well is cutting into my tire. however its been extremely tough...
lets get this part out of the way though- I've replaced:
Rear Struts (shocks, springs, mounting hardware, bump stops)
All 4 springs
Installed camber correction kit ( washers between the upper control arm mounts and unibody ) //I installed this before, however the problem just started occurring right before I installed it.
Rear Upper and Lower control arms *
Rear Sway Bar *
Rear Spindles *
Rear Trailing arms * (starred* parts are from 3rd gen eclipse)
Polyurethane Spindle Bushings

I've had a 4 wheel alignment performed and everything looks very good.
After replacing the parts the car did get a little higher on the right rear but is still lower than the left side. Before it did this I had to loosen all of the bolts on the suspension and let it settle before tightening them again.
I also swapped struts and the problem did not follow them.

I am not going to just roll my fenders, and I am not just going to get different offset wheels. This has not been an issue before on the same fenders and wheels.

The last things I can think of is either my Cross member is either shifted or bent best case. worst case the unibody is twisted. (I have never been in a collision in this vehicle, but it is very old and has had many owners. there is also evidence of a body shop previously doing work on the right rear of this car on the strut tower)

Here soon I will be picking up a 3G fwd Cross member and we might see if that fixes my issue. However I will still be posting this in case you guys have better ideas and for others to fix this problem on their cars when a solution is posted here.

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

If all the shocks and springs are new then they cannot be the problem. we assume.

BTW new shocks and springs take a few days to fully settle when new so they will differ ever so slightly once installed!

are they lowering springs at all or just stock springs?

when you installed the oem type arms did you preset the arms at the correct angles before you did the bolts up? as doing this on full droop can cause height issues as it works against the bush and if its over the bushes limit could tear the bush meaning its not got any strength to retain its stiffness and cause a bit more movement vs normal. while this is very rare to happen its still possible to do in error. while in full droop it tends to raise the car up, if one side is different this can effect both creating an illusion the lower side is the problem when infact the higher side is the problem! Jacking one side up causing the other side to go lower in most cases

I would check that first. due to the fact the rest is new i would like to assume those will be fine but you can check them out anyway and confirm all the oem rubber isolators are on the springs and not cracked or damaged also at the same time

to reset the arms jack the car up and place all the wheels on blocks and then undo all nuts till its all free. then make sure to gently bounce on the rear for it to fully settle and the shocks to level off again. after a few mins waiting then go over the nuts locking them off. with the arms being in this resting location it allows the bush to have FULL motion both ways and not over work its twisting range.

( fine tuning tip here ) if you require a small aid in stiffness you can jack it up slightly from resting height and then do the bolts up and this puts a small amount of load on the bush and will help firm it up a tiny bit more. its not loads but works just enough without over damaging the bush.

 

[wtfhaks]

If all the shocks and springs are new then they cannot be the problem. we assume.

BTW new shocks and springs take a few days to fully settle when new so they will differ ever so slightly once installed!

are they lowering springs at all or just stock springs?

when you installed the oem type arms did you preset the arms at the correct angles before you did the bolts up? as doing this on full droop can cause height issues as it works against the bush and if its over the bushes limit could tear the bush meaning its not got any strength to retain its stiffness and cause a bit more movement vs normal. while this is very rare to happen its still possible to do in error. while in full droop it tends to raise the car up if one side is different this can effect both creating an illusions the lower side is the problem when infact the higher side is the problem!

I would check that first. due to the fact the rest is new i would like to assume those will be fine but you can check them out anyway and confirm all the oem rubber isolators are on the springs and not cracked or damaged also at the same time

to reset the arms jack the car up and place all the wheels on blocks and then undo all nuts till its all free. then make sure to gently bounce on the rear for it to fully settle and the shocks to level off again. after a few mins waiting then go over the nuts locking them off. with the arms being in this resting location it allows the bush to have FULL motion both ways and not over work its twisting range.

( fine tuning tip here ) if you require a small aid in stiffness you can jack it up slightly from resting height and then do the bolts up and this puts a small amount of load on the bush and will help firm it up a tiny bit more. its not loads but works just enough without over damaging the bush.

Thanks for the input man. I did do exactly what you described with the resting angles. The isolators are all brand new. All of the mounting hardware is new as well. I'll keep this thread updated on amy solutions I find. They are lowering springs however I have 2 sets of OEM springs and the problem is still just as bad at OE height. I only lowered the car 1.35" though

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Thanks for the input man. I did do exactly what you described with the resting angles. The isolators are all brand new. All of the mounting hardware is new as well. I'll keep this thread updated on amy solutions I find. They are lowering springs however I have 2 sets of OEM springs and the problem is still just as bad at OE height. I only lowered the car 1.35" though

Hmmm then this is a tricky one to imagine.

Do the shocks have height adjustable perches like some of the koni's do?

The shocks are connected to the knuckles so height would be effected through that and you changed those so that rules that out.

Are you 100% sure the spring is seated correctly in the perch and rubber parts.

If its all spot on then im struggling to suggest anything i would not of checked myself and i would then look into chassis related parts and see if the strut has been damaged or something causing this

 

[wtfhaks]

Hmmm then this is a tricky one to imagine.

Do the shocks have height adjustable perches like some of the koni's do?

The shocks are connected to the knuckles so height would be effected through that and you changed those so that rules that out.

Are you 100% sure the spring is seated correctly in the perch and rubber parts.

If its all spot on then im struggling to suggest anything i would not of checked myself and i would then look into chassis related parts and see if the strut has been damaged or something causing this

Yup everything is assembled properly. I have the car in the air right now and I'm going to try pushing my cross member toward the rear of the car.

Yup everything is assembled properly. I have the car in the air right now and I'm going to try pushing my cross member toward the rear of the car.

Also no they're not adjustable

Is it possible for the rear cross member to shift? I have it loosened right now and it seems very firm in where it goes. Is it worth buying a new cross member? This one is really flimsy. I can bend it very easily. I loosened one side first and I was able to twist the entire component

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Is it possible for the rear cross member to shift? I have it loosened right now and it seems very firm in where it goes. Is it worth buying a new cross member? This one is really flimsy. I can bend it very easily. I loosened one side first and I was able to twist the entire component

the FWD rear frame are a bit flimsy anyway so not much you can do there. sometimes they shift depending on how well the studs in the chassis align.

moving the subframe wont effect height of the wheels as the shocks not directly connect to any lower arm part like the Evo is.

 

[wtfhaks]

the FWD rear frame are a bit flimsy anyway so not much you can do there. sometimes they shift depending on how well the studs in the chassis align.

moving the subframe wont effect height of the wheels as the shocks not directly connect to any lower arm part like the Evo is.

I really can't figure it out. I'm tired of working on this piece of junk. I've lost 4 weekends and so much time after work trying to fix this issue.
A little context- I don't have any pavement to work on. Nothing. No garage no driveway no road. It's extremely tiring and frustrating I keep losing bolts and tools in this sand that I'm working in. Not to mention how dirty everything gets. I really just need this stupid problem solved but it doesn't seem like many other people have this problem. And their solutions are to roll the fenders and get different tires. That does not repair the issue that just hides it

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I really can't figure it out. I'm tired of working on this piece of junk. I've lost 4 weekends and so much time after work trying to fix this issue.
A little context- I don't have any pavement to work on. Nothing. No garage no driveway no road. It's extremely tiring and frustrating I keep losing bolts and tools in this sand that I'm working in. Not to mention how dirty everything gets. I really just need this stupid problem solved but it doesn't seem like many other people have this problem. And their solutions are to roll the fenders and get different tires. That does not repair the issue that just hides it

I understand no one wishes to have these weird issues. it is a weird one thats for sure. I dont know what else to suggest further as I mentioned everything I would of checked and done.

 

[wtfhaks]

I understand no one wishes to have these weird issues. it is a weird one thats for sure. I dont know what else to suggest further as I mentioned everything I would of checked and done.

Do you think my front suspension could be pushing the rear downward?

 

[wtfhaks]

I removed my camber correction kit and the scraping isn't as bad for now. I noticed on the driver side it's more difficult to fit my tools onto the bolts. There seems to be less clearance.. it could very well be the factory under coat but still a bit fishy. The passenger side I can fit a 14mm socket and a box end on the forward and rearward mounts but on the driver side the socket hits the wheel well

 

[wtfhaks]

I understand no one wishes to have these weird issues. it is a weird one thats for sure. I dont know what else to suggest further as I mentioned everything I would of checked and done.

The left side is starting to do it now... If I hit turns the left tire will scrape now. So wtf if wearing out that is causing my tires to scrape

 

[Dusty Landrum]

As Bobby mentioned before, on stock ride height struts/springs there is not much that can change the ride height unless the struts are blown out. You said you replaced both rears with new ones so shouldn't be that. Take a REALLY good look at your rear strut towers and look for any damage or any deformity. Also take a look at the knuckles and make sure the mounting point is not damaged or deformed. Take some pics to put on here as well.

 

[wtfhaks]

As Bobby mentioned before, on stock ride height struts/springs there is not much that can change the ride height unless the struts are blown out. You said you replaced both rears with new ones so shouldn't be that. Take a REALLY good look at your rear strut towers and look for any damage or any deformity. Also take a look at the knuckles and make sure the mounting point is not damaged or deformed. Take some pics to put on here as well.

Will do

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I removed my camber correction kit and the scraping isn't as bad for now. I noticed on the driver side it's more difficult to fit my tools onto the bolts. There seems to be less clearance.. it could very well be the factory under coat but still a bit fishy. The passenger side I can fit a 14mm socket and a box end on the forward and rearward mounts but on the driver side the socket hits the wheel well

this im trying to visualize but not quite getting it, so your saying the body might be bent?

 

[wtfhaks]

this im trying to visualize but not quite getting it, so your saying the body might be bent?

Basically our cars don't have a frame they're called unibodies. So essentially the entire car would be bent/twisted or distorted in some way. No way to tell unless you get it on a frame rack measure it or if it's extremely obvious. Maybe my strut towers are mushroomed? I heard your strut tower can get pushed upward over time. This chassis has 274496 miles as I'm typing this. Maybe it's just something that happens when you're getting this high in mileage

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I know what the chassis is , either way if the thing is bent it could perhaps cause an issue as i dont know who owned it, what they did with it. If they hit the wheel the upper arm mounting could of been knocked in / out or something else as this issue jist seems very odd thats all so something is a miss here.

Shock towers is 1 item to look at and i dont remember if i mentioned that or not if they are raised up etc.

 

[wtfhaks]

I know what the chassis is , either way if the thing is bent it could perhaps cause an issue as i dont know who owned it, what they did with it. If they hit the wheel the upper arm mounting could of been knocked in / out or something else as this issue jist seems very odd thats all so something is a miss here.

Shock towers is 1 item to look at and i dont remember if i mentioned that or not if they are raised up etc.

Yeah. I might have to have a frame shop look at it. I'm confident enough in my ability to replace the shock tower myself if I have to though.
Anyway I have some measurements here, sorry in advance as the tape measure I had is standard.
The right shock is compressed 1" more than the left.
The lower control arm mount on the left is 0.5" lower than the one on the right side.
The lateral link on the spindle and the subframe is the same height on both sides.
I also found some damage to my subframe as if it were towed by it.

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Ok so this is a tad confusing as im reading this and not plotting it in my head and it might be because of wording perhaps. So let me check this and confirm

Right shock is 1" compressed thats ok i got that

Left control arm mount ? Ie i take that as the inner bolt to the subframe is -0.5" down vs the right bolt on the subframe!

But here is where i get lost as you say the spindle/knuckle and subframe mount is the same height! This is tue bit that confuses me.

If the right shock is compressed 1" then the left will be raised but you are saying the left is lower then the right but cannot be as the right is sagging in the shock by 1"?

Where are you measuring from for these shock heights? Are you on level tarmac to make sure its as best of an accurate measure as possible

 

[wtfhaks]

Ok so this is a tad confusing as im reading this and not plotting it in my head and it might be because of wording perhaps. So let me check this and confirm

Right shock is 1" compressed thats ok i got that

Left control arm mount ? Ie i take that as the inner bolt to the subframe is -0.5" down vs the right bolt on the subframe!

But here is where i get lost as you say the spindle/knuckle and subframe mount is the same height! This is tue bit that confuses me.

If the right shock is compressed 1" then the left will be raised but you are saying the left is lower then the right but cannot be as the right is sagging in the shock by 1"?

Where are you measuring from for these shock heights? Are you on level tarmac to make sure its as best of an accurate measure as possible

I was on a drive on alignment rack so it's very level. And yes I shoulda specified, the inner lower control arm mounts have a 0.5" height difference. The bottoms of the shocks are the same height off the ground. But the right shock is compressed 1" more than the left. That would leave me with upper control arm, knuckle, the strut tower, or the upper control arm mount to the unibody causing my issue