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'95 TSI fuel/starting issues

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TSIflyer95

10+ Year Contributor
217
4
Feb 24, 2011
Columbia, South Carolina
Hey guys,

Yes I am new here, I have been searching but I just can't seem to find anything that is definitive.


I recently bought a '95 TSI with a 6 bolt swap. It has some mods too it. 1g rods, 2g pistons, he claims it has BC272's but I don't believe it as they are SUPER quiet, S-AFC, and it had a walbro 255 in it.

Well when I bought the car I knew it had an issue. I was pretty darn sure it was the fuel pump. He said it was about 2-3 years old and the problem was that when going into boost, around 5 PSI it would start to miss.

Well I was positive that it was the pump as my buddy was having the same issue in his car.

I took out the fuel pump and checked the filter, it was black as black gets. FILTHY. So I got a new one and then when trying to boost it would now go up to 12 psi then start missing.


So this is where I am at now:


I was driving today and the car just crapped out. It wouldn't stay running. If I got the car started and had about %50 throttle it would run but not idle. It would die out.

So I got my new 255 today. I was in the parking lot changing it where it broke down. The pressure line ripped so I replaced that.

Well now, with the BRAND NEW pump in, I turn the key, and the pump no longer primes, no noises, no nothing. I try to turn the car over. It turns over perfectly. But WILL NOT FIRE.

I am thinking the full pump relay shot due to over running the old pump. I am unsure.

I need help asap. This is the only car I have that is road worthy right now.


Also, I am newish to DSM. I work on cars a lot but have never owned a DSM.
 
I'm pretty sure I pinched the lines while putting in the new pump.

But I just put in the new filter. This is what's going on.

At idle, according to the gauge, the fuel pressure is at 20-22 psi. I'm pretty sure thats way low.

I don't know what the pressure is at when driving.

I try to roll into boost and it starts to almost fuel cut... I think its just leaning out... do to lack of pressure. That being said I am pretty sure I still need an FPR, I just don't wanna spend the money LOL.

And while I'm at it, what AFPR would you recommend? Make, model blah blah blah.


I am thinking about doing the AEM AFPR. And what pressure would I want to set it at? Would you set for idle psi to around 40? Or would it be set to under load psi?
 
2g base fuel pressure I believe is 43 with-out the vacuum line hooked up. Another way to test the Fuel system without the car running is to run a jumper wire to the black harness looking thing by the fuel filter. There should be white, tan and black single wire harness things. There in the harness that runs along the top of the firewall.
 
I actually replaced them today. I need to just order a base model fpr, I have a gauge and I can get line for cheap, so I don't need a full kit.

Is the tomioka any good?
 
Cool deal. I guess I'll order one tonight and hope to God that it fixes my problem. Which I think it's pretty evident that when at idle I only have 20 psi and there are NO leaks anywhere, that there is a pressure problem, and the fpr is the only thing left.

No experience with that brand sorry...where'd you find it?

It was actually on that site you gave me. On the second page.
 
Thanks man. Also, how do I set the psi with the afpr? Like I believe the stock psi is supposed to be like 40. Would I just set it at idle and go?
 
At this point it could be safe to assume that you are over running the stock fpr. With the mods you listed earlier hitting fuel cut when entering boost would be a pretty good guess. Do you have the stock turbo? Stock boost? Could definatly be the tune! I would be worried about how it is tuned. I would suggest finding a way to log or getting link. If the guy before you was running non-recirculative without the GM MAF I would be sceptical about his tunnig too. I would suggest doing a boost leak test also it's possible that its not fuel cut, but a bad boost leak. These cars are known for boost leaks. If you dont test for them early in diagnosing problems the can send you in circles. Even if you don't have any, which you will probably have a few, you can check testing for them off you list of maintinance.
 
I do need to do a boost leak test. And it is a Big 16G turbo. Running on WG spring of 16 psi. I ordered the AFPR so hopefully that will help.

I definitely want to get link. I just don't have the money at the moment. I would have had it if I didn't have to keep spending money on this piece LOL.

But I am scared for the tune as well. He actually didn't even have a wideband. he had a narrow band but i still don't like it. I got my Innovate in today. I am just waiting to install it until I get my 3" downpipe.
 
I've had 3 16g's your wastegate pressure definitely shouldn't be 16lbs, mine were all around 8 psi or even slightly lower until I turned them up..That 3" downpipe is definitely going to give you boost creep I would bet. Is your turbo ported??That will help..
 
It is a 38mm turbosmart external set up.

And as far as I know the turbo is not ported.
 
haha. I should have specified. But yeah he said that the car was fine, then one day it just started to act up and then it progressively got worse. Which makes me still lean towards the fpr going bad.
 
Any news on that AFPR? I'm interested to know if your car is running correctly yet!

Sent from my T-Mobile G1 using Tapatalk
 
I've been meaning to update this for a while. I've just been busy.

Turns out that I had the fuel pump half way out, or it had fallen halfway out. I forgot to put in the little black rubber thing.

I also had 2 major crimps in the hose.

So I still don't have the AFPR here yet... but the car is running right. The only issue, which someone on here helped me with, is that my CAS is messed up, I guess the guy didn't do the POT mod when he swapped the 6 bolt.

But I have link on its way so that will take care of that.

The only other thing is that my S-AFC is acting funny. I think there is a loose wire somewhere.

But poo is it hard not to boost the car. I don't have a wideband in it so it makes me VERY nervous to try to run the car.
 
Since the safc is not working anyway, just remove it and clean up the harness. You won't need that thing once you have link in your car. Sell it and get some of your expenses back! You'll be able to do everything a safc can do, plus a boatload more, with link.

Sent from my T-Mobile G1 using Tapatalk
 
Yeah thats my plan. I was needing to drive the car this weekend. I plan to send out the ECU tomorrow so I'll be taking out the S-AFC tomorrow.
 
had the same problem i was driving just fine and then out of no where she died. i did all the same things as you have so far went through the fuel system it checked out ok. then took out the ecm and one of the quad drivers where burned for the fuel injection system so i got a eprom for it. still no fix it turned out the crank sensor gave up. so thats what i would check if you have no spark to it. when i put the new crank sensor in she fired up without hesitation havent had a problem since. ok thats a lie its a money pit but it starts now.:thumb:
 
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