95 Talon NT losing power and almost dieing

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Ok so I just bought a 95 talon non turbo, it's my first DSM. The car was all torn apart when I got it except the engine and tranny. I got the car, started it up drove it on and off the trailer. let it sit a couple days, and today I was going to take it for its first drive. I was being pretty gentle since the car has sat for awhile. Once the car warmed up, the exhaust got crazy loud and sounds like a 2 stroke motorcycle, the car lost dang near all power. it drops to like 200rpm and then If I push in the clutch and push on the gas..it would get crazy loud and build up RPM's very very slowly, and I made it home slowly letting it die down like that. I was only 1/4 mile from home anywayz. As far as I can tell the car has a Stock OEM exhaust, It looks pretty rough. Other than that I dont know to much about the car. Please shoot me an Idea if u have one! Thank you *Chris

 

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More info I thought of and might help. The car before I got it has sat for a good 6-8 months...so there is stale gas in there, a 1/4 tank anywayz. were going to add some fresh gas! We cut off the cat and it was all kinds of bad shape, but I still have the problem it seems like it's missing maybe. The car has new Spark plugs and wires. Please help!

 

[Locke]

Change the fuel, check the oil level.

Do you have a CEL? If so, try the key-dance (or take it to AutoZone/Advance) and let us know what the codes are.

Check the timing. There is an inspection plate, top and center of the timing belt cover. Pull it, and rotate the crank to top dead center. The marks on the cam pulley's should be pointing at each other.

Check for spark. Obviously you are getting spark, or it would not run. But are you getting it on all cylinders? If not, it is important you let us know which ones are not.

Check the compression. Record what each cylinder builds to, how many cranks it took to get there, and the manner in which it raised.

Check your static fuel pressure. If memory serves me well, you are looking for 50psi. It should not drop much when you snap open the throttle.

Quite a few other things can cause lack of power and low idle. Let us know how these work out. Good luck then.

 

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Well when you get on the throttle the car backfires and just goes crazy. It starts slow, and as the car starts to rise in temperature, the power goes away and shuts the car off.
We added new fuel tonite, so we'll see how that goes tomorrow. The spark is good on all cylinders as we checked that and checked the coil. We checked the timing and it's correct. As of right now I do not have a CEL.

 

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Update!! today the CEL came on, as long as I didn't make any mistakes, here are the codes. 12, 25,43,54,11,& 55. I tried searching a find 2 of them. Any help to get htis thing running would be great!

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Update!! today the CEL came on, as long as I didn't make any mistakes, here are the codes. 12, 25,43,54,11,& 55. I tried searching a find 2 of them. Any help to get htis thing running would be great!

Code numbers :
11 - Heated O2 sensor
12 - Volume Air Flow Sensor
25 - Barometric Pressure Sensor
43 - EGR
54 - Not sure
55 - Not sure

The Volume Air Flow Sensor and the Barometric Pressure Sensor are both located in the MAF. It sounds to me like to need a new one. With a bad MAF, it would also throw the extra codes since the car will be running rich.

 

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Where did you get those at? Becuase I dont think my car even has a MAF...am I wrong? And the 2 I did find for the CEL do not match yours? Now im super confused....Please help add input

 

[EagleTalonTim]

The codes that i put are from my book. They should be correct. Your car does have a Mass Air Flow sensor since it is fuel injected. It is located inline with the Air Intake Hose.

what did your findings say about your code numbers?

 

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according to my Haynes, the manual says this..

11-Intermitent loss of crankshaft/ camshaft position sensor signals to PCM

25- Idle Air Control motor circuits, a shorted condition is detected

43- misfire on one or more cylinders detected

54- No camshaft Position sensor signal

55- End of sequence

So I bought a new Camshaft position sensor, I will reply with what happens!

 

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you did read that my car is a 95 Eagle talon, Non-turbo 5spd 2.0 DOHC ?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Yeah, i just noticed that the codes that i read were for up to a 94. the next page was for 95 +

 

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ok, haha, it's all good....Now seeing if this is a fix or not!

 

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well, the morons at carquest gave me the wrong one. So now I must wait until tomorrow to see about getting the right one. However, I was thinking Since the car does all this backfiring and bad driving at half and 1/4 throttle, and when I go wide open throttle it seems to gain it's power back. Could this be a timing belt going bad cause this?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

it is very unlikely that your timing belt is causing your problem. It would have already jumped time and would have bent all your exhaust valves by now. I would wait on the crank sensor and see if that fixes your problem. Be sure you check the wires going to the crank sensor to ensure none are broken and shorted out.

 

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well, I cant get another one for 3-5 days. AHHH! !!!

 

[totaleclipse_05]

I would check the wiring underneath the EGR valve pipe to make sure none of them are shorting out on it. Get the correct Camshaft sensor and let us know if that fixes it also. Are there not any Autozones, Napas, etc. around your area that you can look for the right part either?

 

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I have checked every part store and no one carries them in stock. However, Does anyone know if the Camshaft position sensor plug on a 95 talon is round or square, Because the one on my motor is round, and when carquest gave me one for the 95 talon it was sqaure and didnt fit. Maybe this is a 2nd motor? I am searching everything I can on this car, I'm finding new things about it everyday!

 

[TheCykotik1]

do not change any cam or crank sensor. THE TIMING IS OFF. either the previous guy did the timing belt he did it wrong. if not it jumped and you need to get in there and change the belt anyways. when ever the computer tells you cam and crank sensor arent communicating the timing is off. definately put on a new water pump while your down there. the cylinder misfire is because the timing is off. the idle is jacked because the timing is off. take off the little plastic inspection plate one the passenger side of the engine on the timing cover and see if the belt is torn up or loose. either way i would stop driving the car immediately before you end up damaging the valves or the head.

 

[TheCykotik1]

i know this because i made a bonehead move and got the timing wrong the first time i did my timing belt. CHECK THE BELT NUMEROUS TIMES TO BE SURE ITS POSITIONED CORRECT.

 

[Locke]

He said the timing was correct. Check the sensors.

 

[1PhatACR]

I have checked every part store and no one carries them in stock. However, Does anyone know if the Camshaft position sensor plug on a 95 talon is round or square, Because the one on my motor is round, and when carquest gave me one for the 95 talon it was sqaure and didnt fit. Maybe this is a 2nd motor? I am searching everything I can on this car, I'm finding new things about it everyday!

The old style cam & crank sensors were rounded. You need to buy the new connector & pigtail or go to the junk yard & hack one off of a 2gb. I haven't looked at it yet, but it may be the same as a neon. If it is, you can get one off a '97-'99 DOHC Neon.

I hope that helps.

- Jason

 

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ok, well after I thought about it, I decided why not unplug the cam sensor with the car running, then it would tell me if nothing happened, theres the fault. So I did that and the car died immedietly, So now I do not beleive the cam sensor is bad. I will recheck the timing belt but im 99% positive my timing is correct. I'll post later, on any updates. Where should the idle be? sometimes im at 1100 rpm....and then it sometimes fluctuates from 1100 to 1800 quickly.

 

[1PhatACR]

ok, well after I thought about it, I decided why not unplug the cam sensor with the car running, then it would tell me if nothing happened, theres the fault. So I did that and the car died immedietly, So now I do not beleive the cam sensor is bad. I will recheck the timing belt but im 99% positive my timing is correct. I'll post later, on any updates. Where should the idle be? sometimes im at 1100 rpm....and then it sometimes fluctuates from 1100 to 1800 quickly.

You car will die when you unplug it. Your cam & crank sensors control spark and fuel. When you unplug it, you lose both spark and fuel. I would definitely check the timing again, but I wouldn't rule out one of the sensors being your problem either.

 

[FasterImage]

But if that is true and the camshaft position sensor is bad, then Why would it make a difference whether the sensor was plugged in or not as long as it is still bolted on?

 

[Locke]

Having a bad sensor does not always mean it is not functioning. It just means it is not functioning correctly. The cam and crank sensors create a signal (pulses) that the ECU interprets to determine crank and camshaft angle at a given moment. If the signal was corrupt, or incorrect, the ECU will think the cam/crank are at a position they are not. The injector and ignition time would then be thrown off, causing drivability issues.