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95 Talon NT losing power and almost dieing

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hmmm, I see where you are coming from! I want to say thanks to everyone so far, Even though I still have the problem. Now I am starting to wonder if there May be a problem with my ECU? Were the 95 Talon's Known for a troublesome ECU?
 
Go to your local junk yard & snag the cam sensor, crank sensor and pigtails for both then swap them out. If they are not causing your problems now, they will in the future. It will also be an easy way to start your process or elimination.
 
ok, So I guess, I'll try and find a ECU for my car. I beleive the 95 Avenger, 95 Sebrings, also would work as long as it's a 5spd correct?
 
not having to much luck finding a used ECU. Does anyone make a performance ECU I could buy?
 
I have checked the local junk yards....and I am only finding the 97-99 style ECU's. How hard, Or can it be done and read right, If I would cut off the stock harness and start matching colored wires on a 97-99 harness plug for a newer ECU? Can it be done, by just matching colors? Or would that start to turn into a tedious amount of work and down time? becuase then I could use a Af/x ECU from howell. Correct?
 
I have checked the local junk yards....and I am only finding the 97-99 style ECU's. How hard, Or can it be done and read right, If I would cut off the stock harness and start matching colored wires on a 97-99 harness plug for a newer ECU? Can it be done, by just matching colors? Or would that start to turn into a tedious amount of work and down time? becuase then I could use a Af/x ECU from howell. Correct?

Nope
 
hmmm....well that defintely sucks. Well I think I may have located a ECU. I'll post tomorrow
 
I havent checked the compression, But im positive the motor is fine. Because at WOT the car pulls extremely hard, it just sputters and pops at part throttle
 
Well, I have been outbid on all Ebay ECU's and I cant find any in a junk yard so im at a crossroad. Anyone know what causes these to go bad?
 
ok I got an ECU, the problem still persists. It seems to run good when first starts, and then as the car starts to warm up it loses power, and when it really gets upto temp it just shuts off and dies and I must wait for it to cool down. Only takes 20 minutes from cold to shut off.
 
i would seriously look in to your timing being off. because with the code you have means there is no communication, if one of the sensors was bad it would directly tell you. i run codes on vehicles atleast 3 times a day. if it says no communication, or loss of communication the timing is off. if it says crank or cam sensor malfunction, then its what it is, a sensor malfunction. when they are not communicating to the computer at the right time then its not a sensor, its that the timing is not what it should be and the ecu has no idea what position it should be at and if you keep having early detonation like this your engine will eventually go pop. but if you must go waste money on sensors but it were me i would atleast move the crank around and see if the timing marks align before i got wasting the cash on the sensors. it would only take 10 minutes to take out the #1 plug and get the piston at top dead center, then look in the inspection cover of the timing belt to see if the two marks on the cam gears and facing each other and aligned with the top of the head/bottom of the valve cover.
 
i run codes on vehicles atleast 3 times a day. if it says no communication, or loss of communication the timing is off. .

Thats a bold statement since mine says that all the time do to a crappy port connection. It just takes a little jiggling. :)



if it says crank or cam sensor malfunction, then its what it is, a sensor malfunctION.

Well, when my crank sensor was failing the only code it stated was "Ignition coil #2 primary circuit", it never pulled the no crank reference code.
 
problem fixed....My Crankshaft position sensor was the fix, I changed it out for a new one, and all codes and everything went away! hope this helps everyone else that ever encounters this. thanks for the help guys!
 
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