Engine Dieing

[TurboXtalon]

I have a 1996 Eagle talon ESi (2.0L DOHC / 5spd) The engine started a while back just dieing while idling (engine warm) and started dieing while you where dring it down the road and has been getting alot worse. Now when it dies you have too crank it over alot just too get it too fire, but stumbles really bad and have too shut it off or it dies and do this several times before it will start and run fine. The ECU is a two plug setup. I put new plugs and wires on it not too long ago when it first started doing this and didn't do anything too help. Could this be and bad fuel pump or something? Any help would be of great help.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

As for the cranking issue, initial startup(after it has sat for a good while) I assume is pretty quick(not much cranking). When it's hot under the hood that plays a large part in the connection between your batter clamps and battery posts. Check the terminals for corrosion, if there is none check the wire on the positive terminal that is clamped down. There is most likely corrosion somewhere whether it be in the wire, or on the terminals themselves. The cooler temps allow the current to flow more freely, the hot temps(after the car has been driven and is warm) act as resistance.

As for the misfire, go ahead and replace your fuel filter first(assuming it hasn't recently been done), then if the problem is still there check the coil pack.

 

[Defiant]

Check for skipped (as opposed to jumped) cam timing.

 

[TurboXtalon]

I'm going too replace the fuel filter this weekend. It'll do the continuous cranking now both when it's cold and hot. I had alraedy replced the cable and are good and clean. The motor had 126.000 miles on it when i bought it about 2 1/2 years ago and now has 149,000 miles on it now and have now clue if the timing belt has ever been repalced. I had checked it about a year ago and it seemed good and tight and looked realy good.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Tension isn't the only important factor when it comes to the T-belt. The age of it(which you do not know) is a huge factor. Invest in getting that replaced as well as all necessary components ASAP.

 

[dr1665]

Tension isn't the only important factor when it comes to the T-belt. The age of it(which you do not know) is a huge factor. Invest in getting that replaced as well as all necessary components ASAP.

Hear, hear. Sounds like timing to me.

This is how bad timing affects a 2GNT, in order from a slight variance to the severe:
-slightly lopey idle
-very lopey idle (will sound almost like a Harley Davidsuck)

*Once the belt has slipped enough, you'll lose compression*

-engine will not lite off, but will appear to crank normally

*Lose enough of the belt and pistons will come into contact with valves, destroying the internals.

Sounds to me like you could be on the verge of losing all tension on the belt. You need to pull that cover and make sure all the timing marks line up properly. Good news is, this is completely free to do. Bad news is, it sucks doing it for the first time.

YOU CAN DO IT, THOUGH.

 

[Blitzeclips]

While you're at it, check the return line on your pump. If it's leaking you could be losing feul pressure. Also, I'd take a look at your plugs too. Especially if misfiring is involved..

If there is any corrosion on your terminals, theres an easy cleanup for it. DISCONNECT THE TERMINALS first, take your keys OUT of the car, and pour some soda where it is corroded. This will rinse everything away and leave you with a shiny new terminal. I've done it more then once and everything was just fine and dandy afterwards.

 

[TurboXtalon]

I'll check the timing marks in the morning. Today when i got too town and over too the car i put new spark plugs in it and now it wont fire at all. I also did a code pulling test on it threw the cars self test setup and gave me codes 12, 31, 43.

 

[1.8laser90]

From what my haynes manual says there is no code 12. But code 31 says evap system fault and code 43 says misfire on one or more cylinders detected. Spark plug, injector cylinder compression or air intake problem; primary circut problem in one or more ignition coils.. so it sounds like your coil is about ready to go..