95 GST 1G 7 bolt head no crank

[mkofthabeast]

I have been searching through the forums and have yet to find the answer to my issue. The harness on mine was cut and rigged by the PO. I have 12.5v coming to my starter relay. I have determined that my starter relay is bad. When I jumper the B/R pin 4 to the B/Y pin 5 with the B/Y wire unplugged under the hood the fuel pump comes on. As soon as I connect the plug under the hood the fuel pump cuts off and I still get no crank. The car has 1G 7 bolt head on it so I know that the fuel pump should not come on until the CAS senses the engine turning over. My question is I have continuity from the B/Y starter signal to chassis ground, should this be or do I have a short somewhere. I have checked all visible areas of the harness and the only other option is to either make a new run from the relay harness to the starter or completely remove the harness and check it all.

 

[luv2rallye]

You should not have continuity from the B/Y starter signal to chassis ground as that is going through the starter solenoid's coil. However the normal resistance there may be so low that a meter switched to the continuity position may beep indicating continuity. You'll have to actually measure the resistance to see if it's zero or not.

 

[mkofthabeast]

From the relay harness the B/Y wire to the dashboard frame and door post the resistance is between .2 - .4 ohms. Under the hood on the harness side its like 23k ohms.


Went out and double checked I guess I didn't make a good connection but now I am getting a steady 24k ohms at from the relay harness to chassis.

 

[luv2rallye]

Well 24k doesn't sound right although under the hood I'm not sure which half of the harness you're measuring, back to the starter relay on it's same B/Y wire or to the starter solenoid? Do you have a 1g (90-94) or 2g (95) wire harness? Because the 1g FP relay is also activated by the starter relay in the 1g. The 1g has a 10 pin MPI/FP relay where on the 95 it's 8 pin.

 

[mkofthabeast]

Ill have to check the MPI relay when I get back to the house. As far as I know its a 95 harness. I was told by the guy I bought it from just the head was swapped. The B/Y I checked under the hood was from the harness side. I will also check the starter solenoid side when I get home. I had the car running with the starter relay jumped and a wire coming straight off the battery to the signal input on the starter.

Ok ot home and double checked. It is a 2g harness with the CAS wired into it. The thick B/R wires going into the starter relay harness are hot as soon as the key is in the on position. Once the key is off and out of the car they remain hot until the MPI relay kicks off.

Ok I have continuity from the B/Y wire from the harness out to the B/Y under the hood. I made a test wire to plug into the harness inside the car and run outside. Now my snap on meter may be lieing to me but it had 0 ohms from the inside to the outside of the car. now What I am not getting is I have 12 volts from the B/r wire on the inside harness. If I were to jump them it should try to crank the car but it is not. I know the starter is good because I can jump straight from the batt to the solenoid and it will start the car. Now tih all the working the charge has drop to 11v but that should still be enough to do something. Now as soon as I connect the jumper wire from pin 4 to pin 5 on the starter relay harness I lose all voltage even with the key in the start position.

 

[mkofthabeast]

Ok new update. I ended up running a wire from the ignition harness B/R out to the starter signal plug under the hood. The car cranks. The first time I had to give it a shot of starter fluid, but after that she starts on her own. I havnt pulled the plugs yet but Im thinking they might be fubared. She idles around 1500 RPMs. I am waiting on funding but I found a complete engine/trans harness with ECU and TCU. I will be getting more info on it today and hopefully soon making the 2 hour drive to pick it up.

 

[1sick_gst]

Glad you got her running! My guess would have been something to do with the engine harness being that it was hacked up by the previous owner. Only true way to trouble shoot that would be to replace the engine harness which you will be doing of course. Let us know the outcome after replacing it.

 

[mkofthabeast]

Well got enough stuff out of the way and found that it is an entire 1g 7bolt engine. Found the original owner had placed a couple nails through the top starter bolt hole and JB welded them in place. I pulled it out and cleaned the hole up and put a new starter bolt in to find that now the starter will not engage the flywheel. Along with that the backing plate for the engine feels like it has been cut and hacked. I am in the process now of pulling the engine and trans so I can get a better look at everything and make it easier to replace the wiring harness while im at it.