7bolt Motor Seized! @ Low RPM After Minor Work

[BlackdOutGST]

Sorry for the lengthy thread, but just wanting everyones TWO CENTS on possible causes, before I pull the entire motor and rebuild.

Just finished replacing leaky head gasket, almost broke timing belt, and balance shaft belt yesterday. Started on the second crank. Was running better than before. I was out putting miles on the car to make sure it was going to hold up and work out any kinks. Well after about one hour of cruising around town and started to hear a low end chatter, sounded like a pulley that had come loose or something, it only did this between 1500 and 2500 rpms. I pulled over and popped hood, could not hear the chatter anymore. So I revved it up from under the hood just a little and the motor jerked and made a squeal like a belt hangin up on a pulley. Motor recovered and continued to run, did it again and same thing happened, but this time the motor died. Tried to restart and it would not turn over. Assuming the balance shaft belt came off and hung itself in the timing I towed it home, took crank pulley off and timing cover off, all the belts looked good, tried to spin the crank and it is locked up???? WTF Would make the crank (all-of-the-sudden) seize up? After the minor work I did to it.

 

[crensinivon]

Watch your oil pressure after the balance shaft delete though seems more I read the more I find out about haw bad this mod can be. Your car should have oil squirters though so shouldn't be a big deal.

 

[r1991_4g63t]

Watch your oil pressure after the balance shaft delete though seems more I read the more I find out about haw bad this mod can be. Your car should have oil squirters though so shouldn't be a big deal.

isnt the pressure ok as long as you turn the bearings to block the holes off?

 

[crensinivon]

Not too little pressure too much pressure.

 

[BlackdOutGST]

My plans right now are to keep the guts stock and get it running. Considering stroker kit way later. I had the crank resurfaced to OEM specs, got new rod, main and crank bearings. All other surfaces are flawless except for that #3 crank journal. The #3 rod surface was amazingly good, The bearings stacked on the rod end , which protected it, but the crank was not so lucky. I am also planning on removing the balance shafts. Anyone have any negatives on this issue?

 

[grail97]

check for crankwalk...

 

[No_Skillz]

check for crankwalk...

Can you give us a breif description on how to check for crankwalk?

 

[BlackdOutGST]

Get this sh*t. Put the freshly turned crank in the block yesterday. Set the crank bearing cap in and torqued down, left the rod caps loose. Crank was pretty hard to turn, (scratched head) torqued rod caps down, crank will not turn at all. Called the shop that turned it, come to find out they had another turbo crank being worked on at the same time and has the same problem. They suggest I have a bent crank or a twisted block. First of all, they would not have been able to turn the crank if it was bent, and second, it locked up at 1200 rpm, there is no way the block is twisted. No I gotta pull itout and have them check it out again.

 

[SpiralOut]

Wow.... That is lame man. I hope this is not your DD.

 

[talon187]

If i were you i would get a 6bolt motor do the balance shaft removal and call it a day

 

[BlackdOutGST]

Just what I have been thinking. I have had my eye on building/stroking a 6 bolt after I trash this piece 7 bolt. I am going to go ahead and get my 7 bolt goin, drive it till dies and then swap it when I get the 6 bolt built.

 

[BlackdOutGST]

Got it running today. So far so good.

 

[ShawnsGarage]

Did you rebuild or replace the motor?

 

[BlackdOutGST]

Rebuild. Resurfaced Crank, Rods. All New Bearings. Stage 3 Clutch & Pressure Plate