7 Bolt Block Build vs. 6 Bolt- 1997 Talon Tsi

[Jdbeast27]

I have recently done an engine swap from what was believed to be a 1997 Eagle Talon Tsi 4g63 motor to a 1994 Talon Tsi 7 bolt. My original engine had a rod bearing go out due to a blown t25 turbo which was soon replaced with an Evo III 16g. The swap is not what I am worried about as of now, but I am going to build an additional block on the side. The "1997" 7 bolt block is still in perfect condition, so I am stuck on the thought of building the 7 bolt with high performance internals and machining or simply saving for a 6 bolt block. All I ever hear is people complaining of crankwalk, but for as long as I have known DSM guys, I have never once heard of any of them recieving this. I would love some opinions on which would be better for a fast STREET car, but I would not expect to break 400hp. Thanks!

 

[spadepro22]

Crankwalk is overhyped in alot of situation, BUT I had my last 1g 7bolt fully built crankwalk with less than 1,000. I went back with a 6 and haven't had any problems. You can take your chances on a 7 and probably be good, but If I were you and have the choice I'd go 6.

 

[Jdbeast27]

When your 7 bolt crankwalked, was it an aftermarket Crank? and what year was the 7 bolt from?

 

[sypherzero]

You had a rod bearing go out because of a blown T25? Or because you swapped to an Evo III 16g? This just doesn't make any sense to me.

 

[Jdbeast27]

The entire situation was caused because I was still learning about cars and how the actually work, rather than just the parts. A friend told me maxing out a T25 turbo would be fine, but I had no clue the turbo was already going bad. So when the turbo went bad, it grinded itself away and shot metal into the engine. After all of this, there was a very short period of time I had no clue the turbo was bad and I drove the car for a day, which was my own stupid fault. It took a little while but I got the 16g swapped in, but by the time I had changed the oil and tried taking care of the car it was too late. All of the metal that had been a cause of the turbo going bad found its way into my first cylinder where it stayed and caused the issues such as the rod bearing going out.

 

[spadepro22]

When your 7 bolt crankwalked, was it an aftermarket Crank? and what year was the 7 bolt from?

Stock crank and it was 93 1g 7bolt which I read aren't bad as the 2g 7 bolt when it comes to crankwalk.

 

[Jdbeast27]

Well for my build. I'd obviously be using an aftermarket crank so if I'm correct, that would pretty well stop the possibilty of crankwalk

 

[DSML7dropkick]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here but I was reading on the crank walk issue and the factory had a recall on the 7-bolt that revised the main bearing to prevent crank walk. I had a 95 2G gst and got the car with 113xxx miles and run it to 146xxx miles with no issue of crank walk. I pulled the engine after an accident totaled the car. I checked for crank walk then and still was tight. I then did a slight rebuild and run it for 1000 miles before selling the car and still no evidence of crank walk and yes it was a factory crank. During the rebuild i had it polished only. Didn't need to turn it after 146xxx miles on it.