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600hp daily turbo setup help

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He is trying to make it a daily driver and if you take it on road trip e85 is not available everywhere. I know thats why im staying on pump gas with mine, cause there isnt many e85 stations between okc and where my daughter is as well as between okc and my family, and running out of gas is never fun. LOL

Lol dead on i actually thought about buying drums of it but if i have to go somewhere far away, it just isent practical, LOL and he actually messaged me about the red but im not trying to rush into this choice, though it is a great buy i know someone will take it off his hands.
 
Not sure why so many think a 600hp car isn't reliable. Honestly you can't even beat on a car with that much hp or you'll eat a guardrail.

Pretty much that^

DD'd a 59mm T4 Borg turbo on kill for a few thousand miles.. 37-38psi and 65-67lbs/min airflow with no real problems to speak of.

Only reason I took it apart was to go bigger.

Build it right and be pro-active. :thumb:
 
Boostdriven, I'll have to disagree with your comment. I suppose if you fab up everything yourself then you could do it or under 2k but that's the only way.

I agree that staying under $2k for a T3 setup would be difficult for most. At least using quality parts. You could just use a $60 wastegate and $100 manifold from China, but there goes the whole "reliable" thing. However, the bolt-on setup is a different story. I barely broke $2k total for my new setup, which includes cams/springs, SD conversion, and 400lph pump. My Punishment MVS O2 housing wasn't much help at nearly 600 bucks, so there's still room for improvement.

I also agree that horsepower doesn't always equal reliability issues. Especially if everything was built and tuned correctly. The vast majority of reliability issues I've had were a result of bad workmanship or low quality parts. Both of which could have been avoided to begin with.
 
Thanks for the words of encouragment guys, i would like to say i learned early on on life, I WILL NOT DO IT IF IT IS NOT DONE RIGHT. I know dsmers are cheap but i believe if done right and the precaution and time taken it can be reliable, i have no problem with spending the money once, and getting a quality part, rather than be constantly down and spending it Multiple times. Reliable and close to six hundred is my goal, im not going to say money isent a factor, i do not want to spend money that isent needed but i want it done right.
 
Thanks for the words of encouragment guys, i would like to say i learned early on on life, I WILL NOT DO IT IF IT IS NOT DONE RIGHT. I know dsmers are cheap but i believe if done right and the precaution and time taken it can be reliable, i have no problem with spending the money once, and getting a quality part, rather than be constantly down and spending it Multiple times. Reliable and close to six hundred is my goal, im not going to say money isent a factor, i do not want to spend money that isent needed but i want it done right.

That's certainly the right attitude, and the price of entry to the 600whp club is steep.

But the nice part about shooting for 600whp is.. even if you fall a bit short, you still own a rocket. :D
 
In reality if you build a car to handle 600 HP at the track, that car should last a lot longer as a daily driver then a bone stock car, that is if you drive it like a stock car of course. When you build an engine, you get better pistons and rings, better bearings, probably better valves and guilds, bigger radiator, better oil cooler, big exhaust manifold and larger exhaust housing which runs lower egts at mild load. With a big turbo you don't make as much power at low rpms as you would with stock 14b for example. If you floored it at every shift but shifted gears before 3000 rpms, there isn't enough power to put any excessive ware on the engine. Like WES said, if you use good quality parts and do things right, with intention of a long term use then there is no reliability issues.

Now let's talk about $2000 dollar budget. $2000 dollars will buy you a brand new Fp black with the oil line to feed it. And if you want to get better o2 housing which you should, well that will cost you another $250 dollars for a good one. So you have a big turbo on you car but that still leaves you with your stock manifold. Now the budget is $2250 dollars so let's see what we can do with that :)

DSM T3 Hot Kit - Punishment Racing
For $1300 dallars you're getting way better then stock exhaust manifold with external wastegate flange and tube, 3" o2 housing with 3" v-band, still a bolt on set up. For $130 dollars you can get godspeed 44mm wastegate. I run their 50mm and it work flawlessly, just as good as a 50 dollars actuator on the Fp turbo. For $230 dollars you can get bep t3 .70 a/r housing with 3" v-band. The turbo is where things can fluctuate in price, but I'm sure you can get a good used HX40 with out exhaust housing for about $450 dollars. A good used HX40 is just as good as a new HX40, they go for 250,000+ miles almost always in boost. Now let's add things up. 1300+130+230+450=$2110 dollars. $140 dollars less then the Fp rout. It's still a bolt on situation for the most part but you get all the goodies, manifold and 3" o2 housing, a turbo that WILL hold 40 psi of boost to 8500 rpms.

So what do you guys think, what would be a better option ;)
 
That's certainly the right attitude, and the price of entry to the 600whp club is steep.

But the nice part about shooting for 600whp is.. even if you fall a bit short, you still own a rocket. :D

Lol my thoughts exactly.

Also thanks a bunch on the info on the t3 setup boostdriven, im looking into it. 2K isent necessarily the cap but thats about what i figure a fp black for 2k then fp manifold for 200, then 02 housing, then wastegate. I think i will probly go hx40 juat because the reliability factor as well as cost. Even though i love fp turbos.
 
Lol my thoughts exactly.

Also thanks a bunch on the info on the t3 setup boostdriven, im looking into it. 2K isent necessarily the cap but thats about what i figure a fp black for 2k then fp manifold for 200, then 02 housing, then wastegate. I think i will probly go hx40 juat because the reliability factor as well as cost. Even though i love fp turbos.

If you want a highway monster that pulls like a train at 8000+ rpms and still can be driven on the street like a normal car, I promise you, you can't go wrong with that set up. I ran 6 blade HX40 for a number of years before I switched to HX52 and I can't say there was something I didn't like about it. Never had any issues and the sound of the turbo spoiling alone can make a guy buy one :) don't get me wrong I'm not saying that Fp turbos are bad, I'm sure its one bad ass piece but I couldn't stand to think that I'm breathing 500+ HP through a 8cm exhaust housing. Can you imagine the drive pressure you need to have to keep that turbo holding 30+ psi past 6000 rpms. More drive pressure = hotter egts = a lot more ware on your turbo, talk about cooking oil :)

There was another thread on here where a guy posted a YouTube video of his car on the dyno with Fp red I think. During a pull you can see in day light how hot the manifold and wastegate got by the end of the pull. It had to have been 1500+ degree egts to get it to glow that much. I barely hit 1400 at the end of my 3rd gear run letting off at 8500 rpms

You will probably make similar HP with Fp turbo but it will be in the lower rpms, it will hit full boost about 500 rpms sooner but you will lose that 500 rpms in the top end.
 
I've ran the hx40 60mm 6blade, it kicked ass! I now have hx40 62mm 7blade. I notice. A slight drop in spool speed vs's the 6blade but the topend power gain more than makes up for that tiny spool loss. Dollar for dollar pound for pound, YOU WILL NOT FIND A BETTER TURBO THAN A TRUE HOLSET HX40! Perriod.
 
Boostdriven, I'll have to disagree with your comment. I suppose if you fab up everything yourself then you could do it or under 2k but that's the only way.

Do you still disagree with what I said ;)

At least you didn't pay full $2000 dollars for your turbo so that's a plus, but I'm sure Fp still made bank on the price that you paid. How hard is it to copy a stock dsm or evo exhaust housing :)

Put that map sensor on your car to log drive pressure and you will see what I'm talking about. My guess drive pressure will be higher then boost through out all the rpms and through the roof at 8000 rpms at 30+ psi of boost.
 
^you really don't like fp do you. Constantly on every thread you gotta say something about it. Especially in the vendor thread... Hummmmmmm.

It's not about whether I like Fp or not,, its about the facts. $2000 dollars for a turbo with stock exhaust housing, come on you got to be shiting me :) if they want to sell them for $3000 dollars a turbo, I don't care, its not like I will be buying a bolt on turbo anytime soon, just don't make it sound like its bad ass deal,. Why do you think they sell their cast manifold for do cheap ;) cause no one in their right mind will spend $2000 dollars on a turbo and then buy a $1000 dollar tubular exhaust manifold that still keeps the turbo bolt on.
 
Fp's 8cm housing is bigger than the bep .55 housing just an Fyi
 
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