6 bolt vs. 7 bolt [merged] 6bolt 7bolt 6-bolt 7-bolt six bolt seven bolt

[asdfzxc]

All 6 bolt vs. 7 bolt threads are merged here.
How do I tell if I have a 6 bolt or a 7 bolt?
Will x part from a 6 bolt fit a 7 bolt?
Will x part from a 7 bolt fit a 6 bolt?
Which one is better?
How do I swap my x bolt for an x bolt?

What is the difference between 6-bolt and 7-bolt engines (aside from the obvious - 6 vs. 7 bolts connecting the flywheel )

Is there an advantage over either of the two engines?

Thanks,

-Mike

 

[ilikespeeding]

That is a good comparison but is the slut the 6bolt or the 7 im confused at this point

The 7 bolt is the slut. Shes gonna break up with you soon. Shes the easy way out.

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

Just get a 420a! Just kidding......

 

[1993eclipseGS]

The 7 bolt is the slut. Shes gonna break up with you soon. Shes the easy way out.

Typical answer. ANY engine can crank walk, What don't you get?

 

[keymaster]

Yeah any engine can walk, but why put in a motor that's proven to have a much higher rate than almost any other production motor.

 

[GreddyGst]

Keymaster again leave your personal buyer/seller discussions PM only.
No complaints should be posted about buyers and sellers in the classifieds section or in our forums
Read site rules.

 

[ilikespeeding]

Yeah any engine can walk, but why put in a motor that's proven to have a much higher rate than almost any other production motor.

This.

 

[TheArtist]

Question... when you all generally keep coming to the conclusion of "Driving Style" to be the factor in Crankwalk... then tell me... what "style" screws you over? Rolling at 44mph in third gear and dropping to second and shooting the rpms to 6100? Or what? What style causes crankwalk?

 

[keymaster]

Typically it's more like standing on the clutch at lights, standing on it traffic, etc.

 

[christiane]

Just to add my $.02 to this debate. I bought a built 7 bolt eagle rods, wiseco pistons and it walked in less than 1000 miles. I believe the issue was caused by the machine shop that worked on the motor prior to me purchasing it. But, with that said go 6 bolt. If your on that tight of a budget your a ways off from the 500 HP mark your after and the stock 6 bolt bottom end can hold up to something like 400 HP. Again just my $.02.

 

[knighteclipse1]

Typical answer. ANY engine can crank walk, What don't you get?

Amen to that brother!!! Just for curiosity sake, of those people who are bad mouthing 7 bolts, How many of you actually have had crankwalk? (I know there are a few) But the percentage is far lower then many would have you believe. If you all wanted to be totally safe, we'd all be driving Volvo's or Subaru's right? Life is a crap shoot, Don't get rid of a perfectly good engine because it may cause problems, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

[1badturbo]

Well the thing is i dont have the tools or the kowledge to do either the 6bolt swap or build the 7bolt, so a shop has to do it for me and I'll have $3000-3500 to work with so with that budget in mind what would be a better choice. I also plan in swaping to a bigger turbocharger in the future but don't want to run into problems when I do.

 

[knighteclipse1]

O.k.....on your first post, you said your engine did what exactly?

 

[Bo0O0ostedDSM]

I earlier said to go with a 6 bolt. If I was in your situation, thats still what I would do.

However, because you are on a budget the 7 bolt might be the better choice (for you). If your 7 bolt hasn't walked after 180,xxxx miles, you might as well stick with it. Generally, I would never suggest rebuilding a 7 bolt... especially if the reason for the rebuild is crank walk. But seeing as how your engine troubles are non-crank-walk related and you are on a budget, rebuilding the 7 bolt seems the most logical choice.

 

[1badturbo]

I don't know if it walked or just blew.Basicily as I was driving to work it felt like the clutch was starting to slip under a light load it did it in 2nd,3rd,4th, and 5th but i figured the clutch was starting to go out since it was a stock clutch, and i just babied it the rest of the way to work, no biggie. On my lunch break I went out to go to lunch and tried to start it and nothing, but while trying to turn it over I could here a faint buzzing noise(like an electric motor trying to turn but not being able to). I went to have it towed the next day and as I pushed it back there was a puddle of oil from underneith the car, and the area where the tranny connects to the block looked like it had been dripping oil and my d/p had caked on oil. When I got home and opened the garadge I noticed a puddle of oil on the floor where the car was sitting before I went to work, and it looked like as I had backed the car out the day before that it was leaking bad since there was a steady stream of oil that ran out the garadge and down the driveway from when I backed out the day before. (I have come to the conclusion that i locked the motor up because I'm not even able to rotate the crank with breaker bar.

 

[98evoIIIpwr]

Yeah 7 bolts walk... so what. If you build it then most of the parts are aftermarket and its much less likely to walk. So build it. a built 7 bolt I would take over a stock 6 bolt anyday. #### it they are both 4G's and can produce power. IMO its a car. Build it, make it fast, smoke some people and call it a day. A friend of mine around town has a 500+ awhp eclipse and drives it like 150 miles a week and hasnt had a problem for 2 yearz. Do what suits you and you shouldnt be dissapointed. my .02 cents.

 

[Trucloner11]

how many cases of 6-bolt crankwall have there been? many if any?

 

[keymaster]

Very very few. Most are due to assembly error. I still stand by saying I'd never build a 7-bolt. Many engine builders won't even touch them anymore, especially if they usually offer warranties. I happen to be a victim of crankwalk, so I think I've got plenty of room to bi*** about them.

 

[1badturbo]

O.k.....on your first post, you said your engine did what exactly?

I posted the answer already but never got a clear answer so I'm asking it again.




I don't know if it walked or just blew.Basicily as I was driving to work it felt like the clutch was starting to slip under a light load it did it in 2nd,3rd,4th, and 5th but i figured the clutch was starting to go out since it was a stock clutch, and i just babied it the rest of the way to work, no biggie. On my lunch break I went out to go to lunch and tried to start it and nothing, but while trying to turn it over I could here a faint buzzing noise(like an electric motor trying to turn but not being able to). I went to have it towed the next day and as I pushed it back there was a puddle of oil from underneith the car, and the area where the tranny connects to the block looked like it had been dripping oil and my d/p had caked on oil. When I got home and opened the garadge I noticed a puddle of oil on the floor where the car was sitting before I went to work, and it looked like as I had backed the car out the day before that it was leaking bad since there was a steady stream of oil that ran out the garadge and down the driveway from when I backed out the day before. (I have come to the conclusion that i locked the motor up because I'm not even able to rotate the crank with breaker bar.

 

[ilikespeeding]

Yeah 7 bolts walk... so what. If you build it then most of the parts are aftermarket and its much less likely to walk. So build it. a built 7 bolt I would take over a stock 6 bolt anyday. #### it they are both 4G's and can produce power. IMO its a car. Build it, make it fast, smoke some people and call it a day. A friend of mine around town has a 500+ awhp eclipse and drives it like 150 miles a week and hasnt had a problem for 2 yearz. Do what suits you and you shouldnt be dissapointed. my .02 cents.

No. No one knows what causes crankwalk. Usually, when rebuilding a motor, you replace the oil pickup, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, pumps, lifters (with nonticking), and various other aftermarket products. The top theories in crankwalk deal nothing with these parts. Really, the only part to prevent (only somewhat at that) is the clutch saftey switch removal, which helps your throwing out bearing.

Yes, a built 7 bolt would own a stock 6...however a built 7 bolt with no crank will only give you a 3000 dollar bill for an engine swap anyways. Might as well have the 6 bolt swap and then build.

 

[1badturbo]

No. No one knows what causes crankwalk. Usually, when rebuilding a motor, you replace the oil pickup, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, pumps, lifters (with nonticking), and various other aftermarket products. The top theories in crankwalk deal nothing with these parts. Really, the only part to prevent (only somewhat at that) is the clutch saftey switch removal, which helps your throwing out bearing.

Yes, a built 7 bolt would own a stock 6...however a built 7 bolt with no crank will only give you a 3000 dollar bill for an engine swap anyways. Might as well have the 6 bolt swap and then build.

so as long as i dont have crank walk and get a new or reman crank with pistons and rods i should be ok with the 7bolt

 

[hellotbone]

You can look at it this way as well if you wish. Both 6 and 7 bolt motors have been proven to make decent power on stock internals that debate is pretty well sqwashed. 99%of the guys on here will never need a built motor.

Secondly look at it like I did, there is a possibility of CW in any motor but the 7 bolt has had a larger failier rate. My 7 bolt did CW with an automatic transmission and also DsmJim's 7 bolt CWed but after a couple seasons of abuse at the track. We both basically blew our motors at the same time and both bought jdm 6bolts at the same time. He decided to build his motor for more abuse at the track and I just wanted a cheap daily driver engine to beat on.

I installed mine and started beating on it and his went out for rebuild we both paid 1500 bucks canadian for our motors drop in condition and running.

Now my question is to the guys debating if you don't need a built motor how can you turn down 1500 bucks for a motor? Its impossible to do. I since bought another 6 bolt and built it this one in running condition I have over 4000 into it now. My original 6 bolt is still running strong and I won't change it out unless it blows now. So really I could have a couple more 6bolts as dropins just for the cost of building the one engine. Doesn't make sense at all to me I would rather blow em up and drop in another one then spend money on a built motor ever again.

 

[knighteclipse1]

^^^Statements like that let us all know why your a wiseman! Well said!

 

[1badturbo]

You can look at it this way as well if you wish. Both 6 and 7 bolt motors have been proven to make decent power on stock internals that debate is pretty well sqwashed. 99%of the guys on here will never need a built motor.

Secondly look at it like I did, there is a possibility of CW in any motor but the 7 bolt has had a larger failier rate. My 7 bolt did CW with an automatic transmission and also DsmJim's 7 bolt CWed but after a couple seasons of abuse at the track. We both basically blew our motors at the same time and both bought jdm 6bolts at the same time. He decided to build his motor for more abuse at the track and I just wanted a cheap daily driver engine to beat on.

I installed mine and started beating on it and his went out for rebuild we both paid 1500 bucks canadian for our motors drop in condition and running.

Now my question is to the guys debating if you don't need a built motor how can you turn down 1500 bucks for a motor? Its impossible to do. I since bought another 6 bolt and built it this one in running condition I have over 4000 into it now. My original 6 bolt is still running strong and I won't change it out unless it blows now. So really I could have a couple more 6bolts as dropins just for the cost of building the one engine. Doesn't make sense at all to me I would rather blow em up and drop in another one then spend money on a built motor ever again.

So your saying to just get a stock 6bolt and be done with it

 

[hellotbone]

Its ultimately your choice, I cannot make up your mind for you only give you my experiences with the different engines. Myself personally with my feelings is that I would never use a 7 bolt engine to do a build up. If its in the car and running beat the crap out of it for all its worth. If it blows I would be swapping in a 6bolt. That is exactly what I did had 7 bolts beat the crap out of it now I have 6

 

[1badturbo]

Ok I guess a 6 bolt it is then sinceI dont plan on having more than 400-450whp. A stock 6bolt will be fine.