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6 bolt vs. 7 bolt [merged] 6bolt 7bolt 6-bolt 7-bolt six bolt seven bolt

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asdfzxc

Probationary Member
9
1
Jul 7, 2002
All 6 bolt vs. 7 bolt threads are merged here.
How do I tell if I have a 6 bolt or a 7 bolt?
Will x part from a 6 bolt fit a 7 bolt?
Will x part from a 7 bolt fit a 6 bolt?
Which one is better?
How do I swap my x bolt for an x bolt?


What is the difference between 6-bolt and 7-bolt engines (aside from the obvious - 6 vs. 7 bolts connecting the flywheel :p )

Is there an advantage over either of the two engines?

Thanks,

-Mike
 
I would probably just build the 7bolt if I were you. I agree with GreddyGST. If you get the 6bolt, and just run it the way it is, you'll probably end up blowing something. Unless you do an all out rebuild on a 6bolt to guarantee a good running motor. Also, crankwalk is pretty common in the midwest, but there are a lot of guys who don't know how to drive :). I'm not one of them though. I have the 6bolt and love it but it all depends on how much you wanna spend
 
GreddyGst said:
If thats what he meant then he is wrong. After market clutch does not affect/increase your chances of crankwalk.


You're...joking...right? Go read here: http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/crankwalktheory.htm. It's quite commonly known that some aftermarket clutches (ie ACT 2600) accelerate crankwalk. Just because YOU'VE never seen any cases doesn't mean squat. I'd never known anyone with it either, until it happened to me. The guys that help me put in the 6-bolt motor have seen numerous cases over the years.
 
keymaster said:
You're...joking...right? Go read here: http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/crankwalktheory.htm. It's quite commonly known that some aftermarket clutches (ie ACT 2600) accelerate crankwalk. Just because YOU'VE never seen any cases doesn't mean squat. I'd never known anyone with it either, until it happened to me. The guys that help me put in the 6-bolt motor have seen numerous cases over the years.

Well from experience, I've been through 3 after market clutches currently using ACT 2600. Yes is true that a stiffer clutch ie the 2600 and puts stress on the crank but crankwalk happens even with a stock clutch so it doesn't matter. Either you get crankwalk or not and from experience not the kind of 'I heard' or 'friends told' is something not to be paranoid about. Like I stated before how do you explain someone in my position? I have a stock 7bolt motor nearly 10years old with over 115k miles been modding my car since the day I had it and is pushing a lot of power with the 2600. I guess I should fear crankwalk too ROFL

KeyMaster, what clutch were you using when your car crankwalk? I'm going to laugh more if you say Stock
 
GreddyGst said:
... Like I stated before how do you explain someone in my position? I have a stock 7bolt motor nearly 10years old with over 115k miles been modding my car since the day I had it and is pushing a lot of power with the 2600....

You got an engine that was machined correctly.

Why take a chance with an engine that may have been machined incorrectly? Just get a six bolt, be nice to it, save money, then build an engine that is worth having. Do not take the chance with a seven bolt.
 
The motor that blew is a 7bolt and it had 180k miles on it. If it didn't by now how likely would it be to walk after a rebuild and also how would I be able to tell if it hasn't walked already. I dont think it has tho.
 
I guess you never know 1badturbo. You can get a not built 6bolt and after 50k miles have your engine blow again.. or vice verse with a 7bolt. If you really fear crankwalk then go for 6bolt. I fear blowing my motor or having a blown headgasket before crankwalk but thats me so up to you.
 
A heavier clutch doesnt necessarily cause crankwalk, but can help attribute to it quicker. It really just has to do with the motor, driving style etc. Ive read numerous stories of guys running heavier than stock clutches and walking the 7 bolt early. Ive also heard of guys running it with no problem. It sort of just a hit or miss thing. I personally would go with the 6 bolt, but its all about preference.
 
GreddyGst said:
Well from experience, I've been through 3 after market clutches currently using ACT 2600. Yes is true that a stiffer clutch ie the 2600 and puts stress on the crank but crankwalk happens even with a stock clutch so it doesn't matter. Either you get crankwalk or not and from experience not the kind of 'I heard' or 'friends told' is something not to be paranoid about. Like I stated before how do you explain someone in my position? I have a stock 7bolt motor nearly 10years old with over 115k miles been modding my car since the day I had it and is pushing a lot of power with the 2600. I guess I should fear crankwalk too ROFL

KeyMaster, what clutch were you using when your car crankwalk? I'm going to laugh more if you say Stock

I run an ACT 2600, thankyouverymuch. I fully realize that it happens on stock and aftermarket clutches. I was merely stating that if your motor is destined to walk, a stiffer aftermarket clutch will likely acclerate the process. I didn't check my endplay before I put the 2600 in, but after about 3500 miles, it was .030".
 
keymaster said:
I run an ACT 2600, thankyouverymuch. I fully realize that it happens on stock and aftermarket clutches. I was merely stating that if your motor is destined to walk, a stiffer aftermarket clutch will likely acclerate the process. I didn't check my endplay before I put the 2600 in, but after about 3500 miles, it was .030".

Ok, crankwalk here I come!
 
You don't read very well do you? If your motor is going to walk, it will walk no matter what. Obviously yours doesn't seem like it's going to. I never said they all will, nor did I say that an aftermarket clutch guarantees CW.
 
Id say save up and build a 6 bolt with gapless rings, new pumps, seals, gaskets and belts, new rods and pistons, and new cams. You'd have a beast. I looked into fully building a 6 bolt and estimated it at $6k for only parts... thats assuming you can get a 200 dollar motor from a guy at my school.
 
I would stick with the 7-bolt and just rebuild it. Cause if you get the forged internals like weisco heads, and eagle rods, and maybe a ported and polished head. It will run very nice, and be alot better for upgrades in the future. This also may help the engine run longer and more reliable. Another plus is that you wont have to worry about the mess of having extra junk every where in your garage, and one more... it might even be cheaper in the long run to get the 7-bolt.
 
Like someone said before guys... not all 7-bolts are prone to crankwalk. And this problem can be addressed during a engine revuild. Then wa-la... no more crankwalk phobia.
 
The common consensus is not to rebuild a walked motor. There's a high probability (not a guarantee) that it will walk again.
 
ilikespeeding said:
The truth is no one knows what causes crankwalk. Its just there. If you want to invest 3k+ in an engine and watch it fall apart, go for it. I think this situation is like choosing between girls. The first girl, you know is pretty easy to get along with and already wants your dick...but you know shes a slut and probably will dump you first chance she gets. The second is a little harder to break into to, but once in shes there for the ride and shes not a slut. Who do you pick?


That is a good comparison but is the slut the 6bolt or the 7 im confused at this point
 
i own a 2.4 spyder is my block good or is it better to swap the motor for a 4g63 or rebuild my motor with after market pistons,rods and swap the head for a twin cam???
 
keymaster said:
You don't read very well do you? If your motor is going to walk, it will walk no matter what. Obviously yours doesn't seem like it's going to. I never said they all will, nor did I say that an aftermarket clutch guarantees CW.

I read perfectly. On my previous post I said that crankwalk will happen even with a stock oem clutch so like you said walk is going to happen regardless if you are prone to walk.
 
so in building lets say a talon... which is a 7 bolt.. i want to just build a new engine so am i right to say just stick with the 7 bolt and build it right?
i also want to keep it an auto to throw people off

and if anyone can tell me which is the best way to get 500 hp+
2.0 or 2.3 (stroker)
 
NitroTalon said:
so in building lets say a talon... which is a 7 bolt.. i want to just build a new engine so am i right to say just stick with the 7 bolt and build it right?
i also want to keep it an auto to throw people off

and if anyone can tell me which is the best way to get 500 hp+
2.0 or 2.3 (stroker)






Are you trying to highjack my threadWTF LOL
 
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