2G 6 bolt swap Misfire/cut out when giving more than 1\4 throttle

[Schwebe101]

Hello everyone, I was decently familiar with my 420a when I was into DSM's but now my roommate picked up an extremely cheap and rough GST with some mysterious background. I am hoping you guys will be able to help some!

First of all from what I know the car is a 6 bolt swap with a unknown but new 16g (probably cx racing ). It also has a walbro 255 and stock injectors with a FMIC. I had to drive the car home which was quite a challenge considering how this thing runs. I will include videos in a bit. The car seems to idle okay, it will drop and shake a tad but that is not the problem. It seems that anytime you increase the throttle over 1/4 it will misfire or cutout and start popping. I can start the car and slowly rev it almost to red line and it is smooth, but if I push it down any harder it pops and is unhappy.

When I was driving home I could barely give it any gas because of this issue and it was insanely hard to get any speed. I didn't want to drive it but it was a decently short drive and my roommate wanted me to take it home. After looking it over when I got home I can't see any major boost leaks, I scanned it and got some pretty basic codes which included some basic O2 sensor stuff from not having a cat, codes were: P0303 P0136 P0141 P1400 P0505. I also noticed the exhaust manifold was missing a bolt/stud but I didn't think it would make it run this bad.

This is my first time working on a 4g63 so I really can't really say I am familiar with where my vac lines should be and what not, I have included 3 pictures, 2 of which are unplugged connectors that I have no clue where they go. The other picture is some vac lines that I am curious to where they should go.

The two links show what the car does when I give it gas.

Not moving

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Driving

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[sirbow2]

Check for boost leaks imo.

 

[Schwebe101]

Is there a place I can purchase a tester that fits a 16g, I'm working at my college this summer and am 3 hours from my garage so id rather buy instead of build. I have one at home but it is for my vr4 and goes in the intake bubble so it won't work.

 

[waterlance]

I would figure out those connectors, check out the throttle body, and definitely check for vacuum and boost leaks.

And one of those connectors definitely doesn't look good

 

[Schwebe101]

Yeah I wish I knew what they were! I wonder if they're not left over from 6 bolt swap? I can't find much on them.

 

[waterlance]

yeah. I dont know how much of help this is going to be since it's been 6-bolt swapped, but i'm sure there are a lot of similarities. Might help you identify some things. The virtual tour seriously helped too.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/index.htm

 

[Schwebe101]

That first link is perfect! The triangle looking connector is the ignition power transistor, the other one looks like an evap thing. Wonder why the power transistor would be unplugged.

Correction, I think it's the coil pack plug, which makes no sense to me if that's the case.

 

[Schwebe101]

Another question, I went out and looked at my firing order and it was way off of what it was supposed to be. I changed it to 4123, 4 being closest to the valve cover on the coil. Now it won't even start just back fires? What am I missing, is the firing order different for the 6 bolt?

I flipped the wire order and it started back up. In guessing it's because it's the 1g CAS with the 95 ecu.

 

[renovatdkitchen]

What are colours of the triangle connector? It's in the location of either the A/C or crank sensor (2g 7 bolt).

Is the base timing set correctly?

 

[Schwebe101]

When I return back home I'll check the colors, also I am not super familiar with timing systems is there an easy way to check?

 

[renovatdkitchen]

Yes, with a timing gun and adjusting the sensor on the passenger side of the head that goes into the intake cam until it's at 5*BTDC.

 

[Schwebe101]

On a 95 does the ecu need to be grounded out or something?

 

[renovatdkitchen]

To set base timing? Physically, no. Go to the "Misc" tab on the right side and ground the two options there. Then adjust the CAS till it reads 5*BTDC on the crank pulley with a timing light zeroed out.

Stephan

 

[Schwebe101]

Sorry not sure what you mean by misc tab?

 

[renovatdkitchen]

Ah, I made the assumption you had ecmlink. I've never done it without ecmlink, but suppsedly the is a way to ground the timing without it on the firewall with '95 cars.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-timing-adjustment-ground.277373/

 

[Schwebe101]

Haven't had any time to run and get a timing light but I unhooked the battery to reset CEL's and the car started up and revs completely fine now? No missing or stumbling. I can't test drive it yet due to a broken ball joint but what would cause that?!