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6 Bolt Stock Rebuild need advice

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SpoollinAwd

Banned Member
35
0
Apr 19, 2011
Austin, Texas
Ok well im looking to get aropund 400-450 awhp I have 110 compression on three cylinders and 60 on one what would you suggest on a rebuild i wanna do it while in the car would

rings
arp rod bolt,head studs and main studs
kiggly girddle
272 cams
evo springs and retainers
my car has 190k miles on it was stock when i got it should i punch out .20 over or leave stock bore?
thats what I have as a list so far any input would be great certain kind of rings anything thank you
 
Well i will provide my suggestion.. I have experience in many car builds and i can only adivse JUST DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. Ive made my fair share of mistakes building all kinds of cars.

Drop the motor, Forged internals and spend the money up front.. You will be much happier. Punch the block as well.
 
The Kiggly girdle is useless on your power expectations. Boring it out depends on your how you walls are. It's possible but in my most cases you'd have to bore it out to 0.020". In that case I would pick up some EVO 8-9 pistons. It's absolutely needed but it's the extra insurance for your power goals. You will however need to bore out the bore for the wrist pins to 22mm to accept the 22m wrist pin of the EVO pistons. You could go ARP rod/main studs, but you will need at least ARP head studs and a mulit-layer head gasket. Button it all up with an engine gasket kit and you are good to go.

If you've never rebuilt an engine before. I would suggest allowing the machine shop assemble it for you.

Well i will provide my suggestion.. I have experience in many car builds and i can only adivse JUST DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. Ive made my fair share of mistakes building all kinds of cars.

Drop the motor, Forged internals and spend the money up front.. You will be much happier. Punch the block as well.

No, you don't need forged internals on these cars. He has a 6-bolt and what the crap is "punch the block"
 
So the girdle will not help me at all?
I just want 450 awhp thats why I didnt wanna spend the money on forged stuff when I wont be going over that.Its my dd and i just want to make sure that i spend the money on parts that i need and can trust.If I could find a good price for a forged piston rod combo I would get it just can find the combos like some people say they can find them for like 600 for the combo but ive had no luck
 
"punching" is boring the block. Which really serves little purpose for power. It should only be done to straighten and square the bores on these motors. Remember, this is only a 4 cylinder, when you bore one out to try to make more displacement, you only get half the extra displacement that a v8 of the same stroke would get. It is really not worth it unless it is required to make the rings and pistons fit up properly.

Your HP goals are easily attainable with the internals listed above. Forged internals are only required if you plan on boosting it at some super high numbers. Next, I would read as much about turbos as you can find. Research how they work, what factors affect what with respect to "lag", ramp time, etc. Then research different turbos and find the one that will do what you want it to do, when you want it. You don't just want to go buy the biggest turbo out there and call it a day.

EDIT: Also, as stated above, don't cut ANY corners. Cutting corners and taking short cuts just makes you have to do it again later, and usually costs you out the ass in the long run.
 
I was thinking about a HX35 with bep housing for a turbo.I have some stuff im trying to get rid of the stuff i bought is gonna exceed the power Im wanting.But thanks for all your advice might go 1G big rods and forged evo pistons?
 
Laserspeeddemon... are you lost? Lol I know you think you know everything because you have a lot of posts but clearly you are clueless.. if have nevrr heard of the term punch the block?? Haha your little head must be stuck in your little DSM world. And in order to obtain a reliable daily drivable 450whp car I STRONGLY SUGGEST forging the motor. But thanks for trying to flame me and make me look stupid on my first day of the forums. Hopefully your actions arnt a good reflection of all members of the DAM forums..

^^
Off to a good start... WTF

If you know how to tune well, or have it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing, your 450hp goal is fine for your listed setup. There's a thread on here right now of a car with over 600hp on stock internals. If its built right, and tuned right, and supported with the right mods (not cheaped out) you will be fine.
 
A budget motor build for your HP/TQ goals would be the following...
Code:
[INDENT]Bore - .020" if you have to.
Pistons - stock 2g (8.5:1 CR) pistons
Connecting Rods - stock 1g rods
Crank - stock 6-bolt (polished)  
Camshafts - 272/272 in. & ex.
Valves / Springs / Retainers - engnbldr SS valves & stock Evo VIII/IX beehive springs
Head Gasket - Mitsu composite
Head studs- H11 MAP head studs[/INDENT]
Of course you'll want to have a fuel system that can support the airflow of the turbo as well as a way to tune it.

:dsm:
 
Valve Guides are not a bolt-in affair, it requires a special tool to get the old ones out and the new ones in. and then a special tool to get the valves fitted to the guides .... in fact none of that is "bolt in."


I'd rock the valves tho :cool:

I'm getting mine from Strictly Import Motorsports. They are doing my Stage 2 Port/Polish.
 
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