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1G 6 bolt flex plate parts question

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enriquez2000

Proven Member
2,411
1,020
Oct 5, 2014
fort collins, Colorado
Im looking for the diagram of what i need for the flexplate.. i know there are bolts(obviously) and i think a spacer or bushing of some kind... Just want to make sure I have everything i need when I start building.
 
Well Matt, my son, http://www.dsmtuners.com/members/black97spyder.141625/
has a 2g.
I haven't seen a 1g auto :( so I don't know if they use them or not.
His car is very quick and I love his instant shifts. He has a Metro transmission and a Precision converter, I think and a FF shift box too. Instant shifts. You guys are gonna love it. If I could find all the parts, that would be my next "upgrade".
 
Well Matt, my son, http://www.dsmtuners.com/members/black97spyder.141625/
has a 2g.
I haven't seen a 1g auto :( so I don't know if they use them or not.
His car is very quick and I love his instant shifts. He has a Metro transmission and a Precision converter, I think and a FF shift box too. Instant shifts. You guys are gonna love it. If I could find all the parts, that would be my next "upgrade".
I already love mine with the chipped tcu. The instant shifts are hard and fast. I may switch to a box when this tcu finally craps out.. they are all getting old.
 
Oh if your tcu is chipped it does all the work for you. How nice! Don't get me wrong its fun to bang gears but the autos stay spooled and just keep pullin. Love em but hard to find. I missed a 95 auto awd a month ago...kick myself for being lazy about calling about it.
 
If you want to get wild with it you can program the chps for all kinds of things.. there is also a standalone tcu you can program with a computer. You can make shifts firm up by tps percent if you want so youre not clunking around town while cruising. By the way the pilot bushing is MD732972
 
He's 24. He likes "Clunking Around" LOL.
Good job on the pilot bushing #!!
I need to tell the son to update his profile, his car is a little more aggressive now, quite aggressive. You can't tell I'm proud of him....
 
My 8.8 grade torque converter bolts had the heads bend back ever so slightly that my converter began to wiggle on the kingly plate.. Buschur Racing sent me the 8.8 grade bolts with their bolt retainer kit. Let me tell you, that sounds like horrible rod knock! I upgraded to 7/16-20 ARP converter bolts, no need to worry about those bending or flexing!
 
My 8.8 grade torque converter bolts had the heads bend back ever so slightly that my converter began to wiggle on the kingly plate.. Buschur Racing sent me the 8.8 grade bolts with their bolt retainer kit. Let me tell you, that sounds like horrible rod knock! I upgraded to 7/16-20 ARP converter bolts, no need to worry about those bending or flexing!
I think kiggly says 10.9 or 12 for grade on bolts... but atp should do the trick
 
I think kiggly says 10.9 or 12 for grade on bolts... but atp should do the trick

I thought the same but thought Buschur ran them with their kit.. So now I said screw it and drilled/tapped the converter for the 7/16-20 bolts. I had to grind the bolts down to fit as ARP does not make a bolt for the DSM converter..
 
I thought the same but thought Buschur ran them with their kit.. So now I said screw it and drilled/tapped the converter for the 7/16-20 bolts. I had to grind the bolts down to fit as ARP does not make a bolt for the DSM converter..
Ya the head would be too tall... in only going 4-500hp so i should be ok... if i buy another daily this will go higher and ill upgrade
 
For the ARP bolt, it is not the head that is too tall but the length of the bolt is too tall. The 12-point ARP bolt has a this style head to fit! Never hurts to over build the converter bolts/flex plate area, it will only benefit over and over!
 
I thought the same but thought Buschur ran them with their kit.. So now I said screw it and drilled/tapped the converter for the 7/16-20 bolts. I had to grind the bolts down to fit as ARP does not make a bolt for the DSM converter..
Thanks for getting us back on subject.
@Boomdeeze. How did you space your flexplate. My son was just here and he is a 2gb. After talking to Kiggly, he mounted the flexplate up to the back of the crank with no spacer but used the outside spacer. It sit the snout in better and still engaged the front pump fine. Thin heads on his converter too, from Kiggly. How did you install yours if I can compair??
 
I used the same setup as Kiggly suggested. My setup went as such CRANK/FLEXPLATE/SPACER/BUSCHUR BOLT LOCK KIT/BOLTS. I honestly don't like the Buschur kit as it makes it even a tighter space which made me have to grind the heads on those 8.8 bolts more.. Without the spacer, I won't need to grind the ARP bolts at all. I will just use the red locktite. The bolts were not going anywhere with the red locktite on those 8.8 bolts, it was the shaved down heads that failed. I had to weld on a piece of metal to get leverage enough on those bolts to break them loose!
 
Wow. Thanks nice to know. That's how his is in the order you did it with the spacer so that must be Kiggly's standard way. Good info.

He deleted this with his Kiggly plate...

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I have an older Kiggly kit so I also used the OEM trans spacer between the block and transmission. So my spacing went BLOCK/KIGGLY SPACER/OEM SPACER/TRANSMISSION. I have heard rumors that the new kit allows you to delete the oem spacer to use just the kiggly spacer plate. So be sure you know which version kit you have so it spaced the pump correctly and the starter.
 
Exactly why I asked. It is working great right now with no issues. My son has had enough setbacks that I wamted your view of it. Thanks a lot!!!
He has the same car, just in Talon trim.
 
Be careful on the red locktite. Matt did that with his and liked to NEVER got it back apart. I know if Kiggly suggests it, he means it but boy we liked to never got the converter loose after he did. I personally, and my son will agree, would use blue locktite. It's just something to be aware of.
 
From kiggly himself a few minutes ago

With a 6 bolt and 1g trans you will need our normal flexplate. It goes directly against the crankshaft and using an oem shim plate between it and the crank bolts is optional. All 1g transmissions had the same spacing. The late 1g 7 bolt flexplate had a unique offset to make this all work together.
 
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