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6 bolt block build questions/feedback

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SikhDSM

Probationary Member
28
25
Apr 13, 2025
California
Hello everyone, currently have my 6 bolt bare block out getting machined with the builder.
I am specing out a 2.0 long rod combo aiming for at 900-1,000whp, boost peak around 45-46psi, ethanol fuel.

s3 Haltech
Compression: 10:1
85.5 bore
156mm rod length
Epoxy half fill block

Feedback 1:
That being said, the builder recommends stock 6bolt crank will be sufficient (if it checks out inspection) I say other wise. So curious on feedback on experiences running stock crank with high power.

Feedback 2:
Acl OPMB1096 front cover/oil pump is not recommended to be used with high power applications per the stm website. What is everyone running alternatively?

Feedback 3:
O ring vs headgasket? Do many o ring the 6/7 bolt 4g63 block-Or the head? Vs running a Vulcan headgasket?

Question:
Since this block was purchased bare - I am needing to install a cam sensor and crank sensor with housings/sensor/wiring. What do you guys recommend (links greatly appreciated) on setting up these two sensors properly.


Any recommendations and information will be greatly appreciated. If I missed something, please let me know happy to clarify - Thank you in advance.
 
1) Stock crank with no cracks will handle 1000hp all day, I've run nothing but stock cranks, car has pushed 58 psi and no issue with the crank my frtiends car, stock crank, currently #2 quickest auto 2g in the world, again, no issues at all with the stock crank. Many others I know running deep in the 8's on stock crank.

2) A good used oem pump housing with oem straight cut gears or new straight cut gears from RSB Racing is your best be other than the Frontline Fab gear rotor pump.

3) Vulcan gasket is proven and is more forgiving for surface finish than MLS.

Kiggly 12-1 crank trigger kit + oem 2gb/Evo8 cam sensor seeing as you're on a standalone ECU.
 
1) Stock crank with no cracks will handle 1000hp all day, I've run nothing but stock cranks, car has pushed 58 psi and no issue with the crank my frtiends car, stock crank, currently #2 quickest auto 2g in the world, again, no issues at all with the stock crank. Many others I know running deep in the 8's on stock crank.

2) A good used oem pump housing with oem straight cut gears or new straight cut gears from RSB Racing is your best be other than the Frontline Fab gear rotor pump.

3) Vulcan gasket is proven and is more forgiving for surface finish than MLS.

Kiggly 12-1 crank trigger kit + oem 2gb/Evo8 cam sensor seeing as you're on a standalone ECU.
Thank you for the feedback Jason, very much appreciated!

3) I cannot find a Vulcan Gasket in 85.5 bore for the life of me??

On the Cam sensor - I assume I would need the Cup as well. I was looking at the cherry sensor - how have those been doing?

Also, Side note on what bearings do you recommending on running -ACL or Kings?
 
Thank you for the feedback Jason, very much appreciated!

3) I cannot find a Vulcan Gasket in 85.5 bore for the life of me??

On the Cam sensor - I assume I would need the Cup as well. I was looking at the cherry sensor - how have those been doing?

Also, Side note on what bearings do you recommending on running -ACL or Kings?

There's only one size, it fits all.

Yes, you need the cut that bolts to the end of the cam and you need to cut off one of the tabs on it so it's a single blade.

You can run the cherry sensors as an alternative, they work fine. You need to buy additional adapters to use them though in the 2gb CAS housing and the Kiggly crank trigger bracket, MCR sells them.

I've always had good luck with ACL but in my honest opinion, it doesn't matter, the crank/rods run on a film of oil, if they touch, brand doesn't matter, either will be damaged.
 
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