550cc on Stock ecu?

[undefined0000]

Now that my idle is ALOT better and I fixed my backwards intake manifold gasket I can worry about this stuff.

I've looked and looked and there are some people that say you can and some that say you can't. My situation is that I have a 16g ebay turbo (yikes) guy before the guy that I bought it off of put it in, It has atleast 570 miles on it(from me) and its been treating me fine, however. When I'm taking off there is BAD lag (probably normal?) then when I get to about 2k rpms, it picks up and when it hits the top of first gear at like 4.5k rpms, it feels like I'm hitting a wall, then it goes into second and sends you back in the seat. I know its probably a boost leak (testing tomorrow, boost gauge only reads 10psi when the wastegate is hooked right up to the intake, should be 12?) and I was just wondering, can I run the 16g on the 450cc safely or can I get 550cc and still keep the stock ecu? I'm thinking that I want to get

255lph wally
550cc injectors
Dsmlink/speed density

Good idea?

Also, should I take it back to a 14b or am I safe with the 16g by now?

Thanks!

 

[91stocker]

You can run the 550's on a 2g maf. Or you can run the 16g with 450's on low boost.

 

[undefined0000]

What would be considered low boost?

 

[91stocker]

What would be considered low boost?

Stock-ish. A wideband and a logger would be a good investment right about now. Then you would know for sure.

 

[johnovision27]

What would be considered low boost?

I'd say ~ 8-12psi should do you ok.
Remember, as soon as you start fiddling around with the fuel, you NEED some way to control or compensate for it. An example that really made it clear for me back in the day was this; Your ECU tells your injectors to open in %s. For simplicity sake lets say you're running 400cc injectors. Your ECU says "hey injectors, give me 25%" So they start flowing 100cc of fuel. ECU says "75%!" you get 300ccs of fuel. Following me? 25% x 400 = 100 75% x 400 = 300
Now you throw in some 800cc injectors. ECU says the same thing but now 25% = 200cc and 75% = 600cc. So you're DUMPING fuel, running extremely rich, and chances are your'e starting to wash out your rings.

So, IMO, I would leave the injectors stock until you have a way of controlling them (ie link, as you mentioned). Play around with some low end boost with your 16G. Also, I'd seriously consider a wideband A/F gauge with your purchase of link.

I'm running a 2.3L stroker, and my e3 16G hits 22psi around 3800rpm. You won't get much out of first gear because it's so short. Second gear, if your rpm is still high enough, should give you what you're looking for "push"wise.

 

[undefined0000]

I guess I'll look into that, would something like this work?

INNOVATE MOTORSPORTS 3795 DB-BLUE WIDEBAND KIT | eBay

and where would I be drilling that sucker into?

 

[undefined0000]

I'd say ~ 8-12psi should do you ok.
Remember, as soon as you start fiddling around with the fuel, you NEED some way to control or compensate for it. An example that really made it clear for me back in the day was this; Your ECU tells your injectors to open in %s. For simplicity sake lets say you're running 400cc injectors. Your ECU says "hey injectors, give me 25%" So they start flowing 100cc of fuel. ECU says "75%!" you get 300ccs of fuel. Following me? 25% x 400 = 100 75% x 400 = 300
Now you throw in some 800cc injectors. ECU says the same thing but now 25% = 200cc and 75% = 600cc. So you're DUMPING fuel, running extremely rich, and chances are your'e starting to wash out your rings.

So, IMO, I would leave the injectors stock until you have a way of controlling them (ie link, as you mentioned). Play around with some low end boost with your 16G. Also, I'd seriously consider a wideband A/F gauge with your purchase of link.

I'm running a 2.3L stroker, and my e3 16G hits 22psi around 3800rpm. You won't get much out of first gear because it's so short. Second gear, if your rpm is still high enough, should give you what you're looking for "push"wise.

Ahh, thank you thank you. I'll get that wideband before I do anything else. I think I'm running a little rich or something. Whenever I rev in park just to see if I have any missing or to try and hear vacuum leaks more, when its settling, it backfires quite a bit, just about as much as my roommates small block when we're working on his truck.

 

[BoostKrazy]

Just got my blue led innovate afr kit, has alot of components and looks well put together, i bought mine from maperformance and paid $20 more than ebay i believe but dont regret buying it.. looks like a good package.

You weld the bung into the exhaust, ideally the down pipe

 

[johnovision27]

Ahh, thank you thank you. I'll get that wideband before I do anything else. I think I'm running a little rich or something. Whenever I rev in park just to see if I have any missing or to try and hear vacuum leaks more, when its settling, it backfires quite a bit, just about as much as my roommates small block when we're working on his truck.

Making sure your intake track is nice and tight is key. There are a lot of "how to do a boost leak test" threads out there. For a couple of reasons I'm going to let you go and seek them out A) It's good practice to hunt down the info you need from this forum and B) It's late and I'm lazy.

You don't necessarily need the WB just yet. With out a way to use the information it gives you, it's pretty much just driverseat bling. Get DSMlink and the wideband then worry about the injectors. When you have link, you can simply install the WB O2 sensor where your stock one is. The user manuals say "NONONO" but many DSMers say "yes yes yes" You don't need to weld a bung anywhere, it won't burn out, and hell, it looks clean in the stock O2 housing. Just remember to simulate narrowband operation in link when you do this. (but that's a story for another day) Do lots and lots of research on link before you get it and install it. You need to be very familiar with how to set it up, basic operation and tuning, as well as dialing in your injectors. With out that foundation you aren't going to get very far.
The ecmlink (dsmlink, just upgraded the name) website has all the information you will need. Dig in.

As long as you seal up all your boost leaks and keep the stock injectors you should be ok. So lets start there and see how it goes, deal?

 

[undefined0000]

Just got my blue led innovate afr kit, has alot of components and looks well put together, i bought mine from maperformance and paid $20 more than ebay i believe but dont regret buying it.. looks like a good package.

You weld the bung into the exhaust, ideally the down pipe

I don't know how to weld. How much would a shop normally charge for something like that?

Making sure your intake track is nice and tight is key. There are a lot of "how to do a boost leak test" threads out there. For a couple of reasons I'm going to let you go and seek them out A) It's good practice to hunt down the info you need from this forum and B) It's late and I'm lazy.

You don't necessarily need the WB just yet. With out a way to use the information it gives you, it's pretty much just driverseat bling. Get DSMlink and the wideband then worry about the injectors. When you have link, you can simply install the WB O2 sensor where your stock one is. The user manuals say "NONONO" but many DSMers say "yes yes yes" You don't need to weld a bung anywhere, it won't burn out, and hell, it looks clean in the stock O2 housing. Just remember to simulate narrowband operation in link when you do this. (but that's a story for another day) Do lots and lots of research on link before you get it and install it. You need to be very familiar with how to set it up, basic operation and tuning, as well as dialing in your injectors. With out that foundation you aren't going to get very far.
The ecmlink (dsmlink, just upgraded the name) website has all the information you will need. Dig in.

As long as you seal up all your boost leaks and keep the stock injectors you should be ok. So lets start there and see how it goes, deal?

Sounds good! I'll be back with a thread tomorrow in the hangout probably with the boost leak results. I have a buddy in town with an evo 8 and a 91 tsi that he's got at like 300hp, so hopefully he can help me kink out those leaks and gain 404052590 hp .

I'm a waiter at Perkins around here, so my money comes in spurts, so I have to plan big purchases (anything over $100) WAYY ahead of time .

 

[BoostKrazy]

Well if you get dsmlink when you get your wideband, you can put the o2 in the stock ones location (take oem out).. if not, a muffler shop will weld it in for probably $25..

 

[johnovision27]

You can make the boost leak kit for ~10-$20. Pretty simple. Good luck with the test, and there is no better investment for your car then link. (Aside from ALL of the maintenance that you or the previous owner has slacked on).
Good luck !

 

[undefined0000]

ECMTuning, Inc.

My pockets hurt.....

and do I want the socket eprom ecu OR the conversion?

 

[johnovision27]

Well, we all link new and shiny things, but try looking in the classifieds for a used one. Saving dollars is always nice

 

[WES_393]

do I want the socket eprom ecu OR the conversion?

This depends on what ECU you have. DSMLink replaces the EPROM chip in the ECU. It's connected by a socket which lets you easily remove/install chips. So a non-eprom ECU needs to be converted to eprom and then socketed in order to accept the new chip. You'll need to pull the ECU and pop the cover to see if it's EPROM or not. Check out this link for how to tell them apart.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ecu-eprom-vs-non-eprom-visual-comparison.html

 

[spyderturbo007]

Don't run larger injectors without some way to compensate for the additional fuel regardless of what some people say. Will the car run....yes. Is it the right way to do things....no.

You'll be pumping in 18% more fuel than you should and the ECU will go nuts trying to adjust the fuel trims to compensate.