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50 trim not that fast. please bring some ideas.

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97gstnick said:
im going to be buyin the jmf smim for my car. i am thinkin of buying the 1g smim as it has bigger runners. will i be able to port match my 2g head to the smim without breaking into a water jacket or anything?
that is intirely up to you. i wouldnt recommend it. it will completely change the angle entry to the valves. just get the 2g jm smim. i do have a smim for a 1g if you want it i will give you more info. pm if interested.
 
97gstnick said:
im going to be buyin the jmf smim for my car. i am thinkin of buying the 1g smim as it has bigger runners. will i be able to port match my 2g head to the smim without breaking into a water jacket or anything?


It might honestly be more cost effective to just swap on a 1g head. You can pic them up for relatively cheap, you'd still need all the labor to remove and replace the head if you ported out your stock one and all the things that should get changed at the same time.
 
well the thing is that i have a spare 2g head that i plan on building up. i figured i would get the 1g manifold and port match the head to it. my question is, can i port the 2g head that much without busting into a water passage?
 
yes its fairly simple with a good understanding of airflow and attention to detail. I just recently did this for someone else and it turned out nicely. The majority of the material can be removed quickly with a die grinder and an large ALUMINUM PORTING BIT. as you can see the space is there
 
JKG ULTIMATE MOTORSPORTS is where I got my DSMLINK, got my forum name and password as well. I wonder how accurate is the HORSEPOWER meter and torque, so far the most I have gotten is 335HP.
 
it shows me around 450hp all the times ive looked. I dont know if it means AWHP or flywheel but id like to believe its around there. Though i wouldnt use this computer guesstimation to go bragging with.
 
alexg1323 said:
yes its fairly simple with a good understanding of airflow and attention to detail. I just recently did this for someone else and it turned out nicely. The majority of the material can be removed quickly with a die grinder and an large ALUMINUM PORTING BIT. as you can see the space is there
hey alex, thank you very much for the pictures. this definitely convinces me that i will be ok. i very much appreciate the help.
 
There is a thread on DSMLink forums about the HP estimate. It basically said that it is pretty close to actual dyno figures, proven by those who actually dynoed and compared to what DSMLink was reading out. But make sure to apply the appropriate settings to match your vehicle. weight, wheel size, tire, etc.
 
RedTurboEclipse said:
There is a thread on DSMLink forums about the HP estimate. It basically said that it is pretty close to actual dyno figures, proven by those who actually dynoed and compared to what DSMLink was reading out. But make sure to apply the appropriate settings to match your vehicle. weight, wheel size, tire, etc.

i did put in the correct settings though. 245/40/18 car weight 3450. and its way off, i dont get why mine is so inaccurate
 
97gstnick said:
i did put in the correct settings though. 245/40/18 car weight 3450. and its way off, i dont get why mine is so inaccurate
I believe the only 2 inputs the horsepower calculator uses is RPM and Speed. It then inputs those variables into an equation which uses your tire size and weight to determine how much power you are making, approximately.
 
97gstnick said:
i did put in the correct settings though. 245/40/18 car weight 3450. and its way off, i dont get why mine is so inaccurate

Have you dyno'd your car?
 
Ultimatedsm said:
JKG ULTIMATE MOTORSPORTS is where I got my DSMLINK, got my forum name and password as well. I wonder how accurate is the HORSEPOWER meter and torque, so far the most I have gotten is 335HP.


I don't put much faith in it myself. I've had the HP estimate tell me i had around 450 before and that's not quite right im sure. I went ahead and got it somewhat close to what my actual dyno numbers were when i went. But i haven't changed the settings at all and i certianly havent done enough to gain over 100 hp at the wheels since then.
 
90blacktsiawd said:
I don't put much faith in it myself. I've had the HP estimate tell me i had around 450 before and that's not quite right im sure.

Other than an actual dyno, the best test is actually taking the car to the track and using one of the many HP calculators to determine whp by 1/4 mile speed :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
Other than an actual dyno, the best test is actually taking the car to the track and using one of the many HP calculators to determine whp by 1/4 mile speed :dsm:


I agree. I personally will go back to the dyno again to find out the real numbers. But i do see the usefulness in the dsmlink hp estimates for making changes in your setup. But just general more or less numbers not anything concrete.

The one time i actually felt it might be somewhat close was when i added a cold air extension to my intake. It guessed about 10 more horse but i won't say it's wrong for the simple fact that i was flowing 42 lbs/min over he 41 lbs/min previously.
 
project_tsi said:
Wow. I am F U C King (escuse my french but its really starting to piss me off) sick and tired of hear "your car should be faster" BS. You have AWD, I do not, I have NO LSD, and no setup of stiff suspension in the rear, so my car squats horribly, which hurts traction. Even w/ slicks I can only manage 1.9-2.0 60's right now. Not 1.7's like you AWD guys. I can spin the tires on the highway at 70mph. When my turbo hits, it hits hard, and pulls all the way to redline. Whereas the srt turbo pulls hard down low then falls of, so he doesn't spin all the way through. I am sick of getting PM's all day long about "Your car should be faster, this and that", and "I did this w/ only this mods BUT on AWD.", ETC, ETC. Stop it, Im sick of it. Try stepping into my car and controlling its torque steer and running it straigt down the track while trying to get a decent launch. On top of that I still to this day have a Horrible tune on my car. I can't hold decent boost to get a good tune on, which is why I am going external this winter.

So please, stop telling me my car is not fast or should be faster. Maybe you could do better then me, well thats great, I don't care its my car, not yours. When I get my high 11 sec timeslip next season I will post it for you all to see.

However, unlike you AWD guys, I love my trap speeds. Besides, w/ a FWD, trap speeds are more important any day rather than ET's. I give mad props to FWD guys that run high 12's or low 13's at 115mph or higher. Thats insane of a trap for that ET. If he could hook up thats easily a low 12 sec run.


Yes you have a point but as a wiseman, should you be getting excited over what a car should do? I thought forums should be based off of facts? I myself have cut 1.9s on drag radials, and 2.0 on 17inch rims, in fwd turbo cars. Why shouldn't people ask you, why isn't your car faster. As a wiseman you should have more of the correct answers and be held to a higher standerd then the rest of us. If you can drive and dial a car in, know more then the average dsmtuner, you should have a car that proves it.
 
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This Picture shows perfectly why putting a 1G Intake Manifold on a 2G head is a bad Idea. Notice the 2g head unported and how it has a nice clear shot at the valves, and then when it is ported to match the 1G IM all that extra size is just slamming into head and creating alot of turbulance.
 
rhamlinii said:
As a wiseman you should have more of the correct answers and be held to a higher standerd then the rest of us. If you can drive and dial a car in, know more then the average dsmtuner, you should have a car that proves it.

First off, way to go dragging up a 5month old post with an off-topic and inflamatory reply to criticizm not even remotely directed toward you :notgood:

Second off, Dan became a "wiseman" 12/24 with was after this post was made.

Third strike gets you sent back to the minors, thanks and please drive thru :rolleyes:
 
CanadianTSi said:
This Picture shows perfectly why putting a 1G Intake Manifold on a 2G head is a bad Idea. Notice the 2g head unported and how it has a nice clear shot at the valves, and then when it is ported to match the 1G IM all that extra size is just slamming into head and creating alot of turbulance.

Good point. Also doesn't the 2G manifolds have shorter runners for a reason (clearance issues :confused: ) :dsm:
 
johnfsmith said:
I see you have the rs49t turbo. I had that turbo too and was really disappointed(my evoIII 16g was quicker). The turbo blew after about 5000 miles and had to replaced it. I went with the dual BB scm 50 trim and man it was night and day difference! I still need to send my rs49t in for warranty and sell it. Hope it's not the turbo but thought I'd post my experience with it.


Very Impressive numbers for an At awd. Gives me hope .
I have a somewhat similar setup . Hoping to see numbers like those soon
 
man, where the hell did this argument come from? talk about out of left field. anyways, i dont see how you can say the air is slamming into the head with a ported 2g, you can say the air does that when its unported. i think this another assumption that someone has brought that made sense to others so it became popular. unless i see scientific proof that it does it, im not gonna take anybody's word 100%. i will respect the sharing of advice and ideas and will definitely keep it in mind. but i think most of the theories floating around are bogus. in no way am i putting anyone down, im just saying... please provide proof.
 
97gstnick said:
anyways, i dont see how you can say the air is slamming into the head with a ported 2g, you can say the air does that when its unported.

When it is made bigger, it flows more. But high flow doesn't always mean good flow. When it flows more, if it doesn't flow properly it creates turbulence. Haven't you seen all those adds for the 'tornados' that you put in the intake to reduce turbulence and "guide" air in? Same principal.
 
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