4g63 Problems

[@TDC]

Hey guys! I got my car running but am encountering some problems. First I filled my coolant and bled the system with the heater on. My problem is when I left the cap off of the thermostat housing the water would fill up to the top. Then I would put the cap back on and go for a drive. Shortly after there would be smoke coming from the radiator. When I take off the cap there would be no visible coolant. What am I doing wrong here?

Next my car idle surges bad from 1000 RPM's to 1500 RPM's. Then when I drive it shutters around 2000-3000 RPM's I have a cruise log on the highway and streets that I will attach. I will also attach my settings that I am using in link. Please let me know if I have something thats making this happen. I also have 3 DTC's. What could make these DTC's show. I never had any CEL's before the turbo upgrade and before I used DSMLink my car ran perfectly fine. It was completely stock but now has a TD05H-20G, VRSF FMIC kit, 3 inch exhaust, LC-1, Stock BOV, Stock 1G MAF
Any help is appreciated!! Thanks guys!


0012 Volume air flow circuit malfunction
0013 Intake air temperature circuit malfunction
0025 Barometric pressure circuit malfunction

Here is the Datalog and settings

 

[gophishy10]

The idle problem is probably that BISS screw and boost leaks combined. That code is still basically for a bad MAF, or bad connection. I actually had that code once and it ended up being the ECU. I'm pretty sure the intake off doesn't throw that code. That code (to the best of my knowledge) is electrical based, hence circuit malfunction.
For the o2, you really need a idle log to judge it the best. I don't believe that boost leaks would cause o2 voltage problems, that would also be electrical I believe. Where did you get the Eprom ECU from? Is it correct that all these problems started after you put Link in? And do you still have a stock ECU?

 

[@TDC]

The idle problem is probably that BISS screw and boost leaks combined. That code is still basically for a bad MAF, or bad connection. I actually had that code once and it ended up being the ECU. I'm pretty sure the intake off doesn't throw that code. That code (to the best of my knowledge) is electrical based, hence circuit malfunction.
For the o2, you really need a idle log to judge it the best. I don't believe that boost leaks would cause o2 voltage problems, that would also be electrical I believe. Where did you get the Eprom ECU from? Is it correct that all these problems started after you put Link in? And do you still have a stock ECU?

The EPROM I got was the original ECU that was in the car I bought V3 online from here. I sent in my V3 chip and EPROM to ECMTuning to have it socketed and to install the chip. They also replaced the caps. When I got my ecu back the injector settings were changed to 1253cc injectors that's why I couldn't get it to start! This is why I also posted the settings file so someone could look over it and tell me if everything was correct for a 1g DSM. Before I installed Link my car ran perfectly fine! I will get an idle log for the o2 this weekend!

 

[habitatguy187]

If the ecu is throwing a mas code it will set itself in limp mode, making the car run extra rich, making your o2 stay rich and not cycle. Every dsmer' NEEDS to read this - The Essential Primer on the Diamond-Star Engine Control Units - Table of Contents

 

[@TDC]

If the ecu is throwing a mas code it will set itself in limp mode, making the car run extra rich, making your o2 stay rich and not cycle. Every dsmer' NEEDS to read this - The Essential Primer on the Diamond-Star Engine Control Units - Table of Contents

Thank you so much for that info! I hope thats the issue. I actually tested the MAF harness yesterday. For terminal #2 I got 5.0v. For terminal #3 I got 11.9V. For terminal #4 I got 5.0v. For terminal #6 I got continuity to ground. So my MAF harness is producing the proper voltage to all pins along with continuity to ground. It must be the MAF then correct?

 

[habitatguy187]

IIRC isn't there a similar way to test the mas itself?

 

[@TDC]

IIRC isn't there a similar way to test the mas itself?

I also was trying to find something like this!

 

[habitatguy187]

Yeah I'm pretty sure it's in the Haynes manual, every dsmer needs one if they don't already have it, not the chiltons either, make sure you get the Haynes. Also the factory service manuals (fsm) can be found online in PDF format, they go even more in depth than the Haynes but can sometimes be hard to navigate.

I'd look it up for you but I'm on the iPad and feeling a little lazy . I'm sure you'll find it.

 

[gophishy10]

If you got the ECU done at ECMTuning, then I'm sure it's not the ECU itself. They are very good at what they do. I just think it's really weird that you are getting these codes now as soon as you changed this ECU. My car had that circuit malfunction code too and it turned out the ECU was shot.

I don't know myself how to test the actual sensor, but like habitatguy said, get a haynes manual if it's in there.
"If the ecu is throwing a mas code it will set itself in limp mode, making the car run extra rich, making your o2 stay rich and not cycle." ...I didn't even think of that, but yes that is correct.

And now that you checked voltages of the harness, you know that it's either the sensor or the ECU.
Check the classifieds and see if you can pick up a spare MAF sensor for cheap. Ebay has them sometimes too.

 

[hotrodssnova]

Can you get this DTC by having the intake tube off of the car and just having the MAF plugged in not connected to the turbo? I ran out of time to put it all back together and just ran a small test and got the one DTC.

You need to have the maf hooked up to the turbo inlet, and then start the car.

 

[d1prospect]

I have a 3" maf for sale if ## interested

 

[habitatguy187]

You need to have the maf hooked up to the turbo inlet, and then start the car.

This!

 

[@TDC]

This!

I will give this a try once I get all the boost leaks fixed and get the BISS screw adjusted properly!

 

[dsmvenge]

Idk if any one looked into this, but try using the maf comp tool in link. And see how it runs.

 

[gophishy10]

Any updates on this?

 

[@TDC]

Any updates on this?

I picked up a biss screw. I also tested my ISC and it checked out fine. I am awaiting my injector seals to plug up those boost leaks. After that I will BLT again and if there are no more I will start the car again and post an update! Here's some pics if my nasty injector seals.

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[@TDC]

I got all the boost leaks plugged up so far! I cannot test past 20 psi due to my BLT cap blowing off the tool. I bolted everything up and put the car to operating temp. I adjusted the BISS screw using the vfaq writeup. After I got the idle to sit as close to 750 as possible I took it for a spin. The CEL's are now off and do not come back on. The car does feel alot better and not as sluggish but the front o2 still does not cycle. Here is a log of the car idling with a couple short pulses of the throttle. At this point I'm beginning to think that I am going to have to purchase a new o2. I am also trying figure out my LC-1 problems. My DB gauge is constantly reading 10.4-10.8 no higher or no less. My log shows to be reading decent. Maybe I need to adjust the LC-1 settings?

Here is a new cruising log guys! Please help me get it right! Do you guys see anything out of the ordinary?

 

[habitatguy187]

If your wideband is reading that rich and your o2 isn't cycling then it means you really ARE running that rich. I know it sounds weird since you're on stock injectors but try taking some fuel out of the global and see what happens. Maybe you have an automatic ecu or your fuel pressure is too high but I doubt both the wideband and o2 sensor are malfunctioning together.

 

[@TDC]

If your wideband is reading that rich and your o2 isn't cycling then it means you really ARE running that rich. I know it sounds weird since you're on stock injectors but try taking some fuel out of the global and see what happens. Maybe you have an automatic ecu or your fuel pressure is too high but I doubt both the wideband and o2 sensor are malfunctioning together.

Well if you take a look at my logs my AFR is in the 13's. My gauge reads no higher that 10.8. My sensor doesnt cycle at all. Are there any tests I can perform with my multimeter to verify that the o2 sensor is actually working? My ECU is the last thing that I'm guessing thats causing this problem. It was the original ECU that came with the car and it ran fine before I sent it to ECMLink to be socketed and have V3 full installed. Could my ecu be in limp mode? Or some other mode thats causing the Front o2 not to cycle correctly? My next step I thing will be to try another o2 sensor and see if that works! I am not sure about my fuel pressure.

 

[fwbt]

A easy way to rule out the O2 sensor would be to enable the Narrowband simulation and unplug the front O2 sensor. That would take it right out of the equation, If the car began to run correctly after that, then you've found your culprit. As well, I'd use the Link TPS adjust feature and simulate the idle switch from the TPS as that had not changed during your cruise log.

 

[@TDC]

A easy way to rule out the O2 sensor would be to enable the Narrowband simulation and unplug the front O2 sensor. That would take it right out of the equation, If the car began to run correctly after that, then you've found your culprit. As well, I'd use the Link TPS adjust feature and simulate the idle switch from the TPS as that had not changed during your cruise log.

So it won't matter that the LC-1 o2 is about 8 inches lower than the front o2? Ill also look more into the TPS adjust feature! Thanks for the help!

 

[fwbt]

I wouldn't necessarily keep it like that, you could just use it to see if it actually comes out of open loop. If your O2 doesn't cycle it'll lock in open loop, by enabling the narrowband sim, you're just going to make sure that it's not the front O2 locking you in open loop.

 

[@TDC]

I wouldn't necessarily keep it like that, you could just use it to see if it actually comes out of open loop. If your O2 doesn't cycle it'll lock in open loop, by enabling the narrowband sim, you're just going to make sure that it's not the front O2 locking you in open loop.

Got you! It's a way to test without actually having to purchase anything! So the front o2 not cycling is showing in my logs that I'm running in open loop?

 

[habitatguy187]

So the front o2 not cycling is showing in my logs that I'm running in open loop?

When the o2 doesn't cycle it automatically puts the ecu in open loop. (also called "limp mode" sometimes, since it's put into open loop because of a problem)

 

[@TDC]

When the o2 doesn't cycle it automatically puts the ecu in open loop. (also called "limp mode" sometimes, since it's put into open loop because of a problem)

Got you thanks for the clarification!

 

[@TDC]

Alright guys I took the car out for a spin and it was in closed loop! Sometimes during idle the front o2 will not cycle but when I am cruising it cycles as if it were normal. I am going to try and get my parameters straight this weekend! Heres the log!

I tried the narrowband sim and the car feels so much better!!! It actually feels like its running a lot better. Heres the log!