4g37 problems

[Judaspriest22]

I've Got 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8L 4g37 with 200,000k+ miles.

only had the car for a month, knew it needed motor work. but it was still reliable. then my head cracked due to over heating. (Coolant leak) so after inspecting the rest of the motor for any damage i went and got a used 1.8 head for 120$ off a DSM junkyard website. (Fixed the leak in the meantime) along with new head bolts and head gasket, the motor itself has plenty of life left it due the fact that when i change the oil last it was pretty clean for the cars age with no sludge. everything on the motor was still in good shape. (walls, pistons, valves, springs, ect. even the old head was in good condition.

Ive now got the new head on and everything (doesn't even look used) and so now its all aligned. Dizzy, camshaft, and crank, it wont start. checked every hose and every plug make sure its right, checked for spark. and checked for compression. all 4 cylinders were between 140-150 (Repair Manuel says should be 130-145) everything is good. we crank and crank and crank...but it wont start. i have ignition and every thing but its starting. when i give it gas the RPMs start to rise and the motor pretty much starts, but as soon as i stop trying to crank it dies.

the car is now at my friends garage and i go over there and work on it when im not at work and not in school. my friend told me to ask around and find out if there was a Fuel Cut off Switch, because he had a similar problem with a Ford Escort and it turned out to be the Fuel Cut Off Switch.

sorry this was so long, please help.

P.S. if i accidentally broke any rules with my posting im sorry this is my first post. (I did read rules)

 

[viperlp01]

You did fine with the rules... So you do have spark, compression, and gas??? sounds kinda odd but it could be a maf wire or something came unplugged. I would look at sensors around the engine bay. Something had to come unplugged if you have the 3 essentials...

 

[Judaspriest22]

thx for the help, ill make sure ill check again, it must be hiding if that is it.

but is there a fuel cut off switch on the 1990 eclipse 1.8L?

 

[viperlp01]

Nothing like that in dsms as far as i know.. We have fuel cut problems but not at start up

 

[Judaspriest22]

alright well i dont know new to DSM's, im a Hondaist converting to the DSM religion

 

[DSM1G90]

Bet you didn't get the belt timed right with the sprocket-the cam is lagging behind the crank causing the dist to be horribly retarded and the ECU can't compensate to bring timing up.

But, if you did get the belt on line, did you do the *BTDC timing instructions with the ECU lead grounded.?

Doing belts on a 4G37 is a 3rd grade job being a SOHC.

I would check this area first, for timing issues.

but is there a fuel cut off switch on the 1990 eclipse 1.8L?

Nope

 

[Judaspriest22]

oh i have re-done timing several times, i had it 180 out. but fixed that, then it was off, then i re-aligned dizzy,cam,crank. i did i think the dizzy might be off. I'm not sure. because i set the number 1 piston a TDC and looked at the dizzy and it was aligned. but when starting it my buddy retarded the dizzy and advanced it back and forth, retarding it from the normal set point . and it seems to get closer to actually starting. so i think I'm just gonna try realigning every thing for the 3rd time. see what happens.

i still welcome any ideas or suggestions that might fix this. i want my baby to run, i have new suspension on the way and I'd really like to test it out.

KYB adjustable gas shocks with new Eibach springs.

 

[DSM1G90]

And easy way to check the 'dizzy' is to roll the crank to where your crank pulley mark is on the 5* BTDC mark on the belt cover and pull the 'dizzy' cap.

That rotor tip should be directly under No.1 sparkplug wire contact in the cap. (And the sparkplug order runs right to left with No.1 next to the cam pulley. Hondas have their motors laying the other direction under the hood...). If not, loosen the adjuster nut and roll the 'dizzy' to match.

This is what's called "static", or mechanical, timing - an old way bikers used to have to tune their bikes up with the motor off.

Also, with the belt: on the long (right side) of the belt, if you can twist it and it stops at 90* of the twist, the belt tension is correct. But, if you twist it shorter or longer than 90*, then the belt tension needs to be adjusted.

Also, did you do the oil pump timing when you did the belt due to the new head? For if you didn't, that motor will vibrate since you got a eccentric balancer behind that sprocket.

good luck-DSM

 

[Judaspriest22]

never heard of oil pump timing but yeah ill check it out.

 

[Judaspriest22]

I got it running, i just had the firing order reversed, on the distributed it was the bottom spark is #1 but in my Repair Manuel it says number #1 is top. and i just now noticed the number one. a very careless thing but it happens. it runs great and much stronger, all help is and was appreciated