The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

420a first engine rebuild

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ryan95eclipse

10+ Year Contributor
123
0
Jul 13, 2010
lorain, Ohio
Got tired of searching and searching. This will be my first engine rebuild. Trying not to spend over 800 if my rods and pistons are re-usable. they are said to be je/eagle with only 5k on them. Car engine is over heating. Cant figure out why. changed both pumps. rod bearings. blah blah blah. no fix. good compression. no leaks. PITA!!! 420a. I plan on getting the block hot tanked. Not sure if im gonna hone or have it decked unless it needs to be and is cheap. the hot tank is 45 bucks. rods n pistons checked is free. As for the build i plan to buy a new stock crank and a felpro gasket kit. Im not sure how to tell if my engine is from the car or not. the car is a 95 but i have reason to believe the engine is a 96. how can i be sure when i strip it down? Im gonna either get oem head bolts since i have a budget. or arp if i can find em cheap an new. ###### clevite main and rod bearings and new rings.. is there anything else i should be looking for? this is gonna be my first rebuild. ive watched the videos. did a lot of reading and the engines are pretty simple. i can go up to 1200 max right now. take note that i plan on going turbo after winter or before if i can.


any input?


also, any chance an e3 plug can cause a 420a to over heat?
 
Ok so for the 95 block it wont have those notches he cut into the block?
The shop i believe was call Ricks speedway in south amherst ohio. Ill verify next post i got it all written down. also the website you listed the main and rod bearings is has on their, are those just as good as the clevite bearings? i dont want to put bearings in that are gonna burn up. after turbo i want to run 12-15 psi daily on either a 14b or 16g turbo for starters.

Another question is do i lube/oil the cylinder walls when i re-ring and put my pistons back in?

my engine is still waiting to be pulled. i have all but 4 sensors and the heater core hose unhooked. and the axles still need pulled once i roll it out of my garage. I plan on pulling both the engine and tranny through the top.
 
sure thing. LOL is actually been fun and easy

No replies isnt helping any :( I need to no if I lube the cylinder walls when installing pistons? and if i lube the block when installing main/thrust bearings? how well do OEM head bolts hold up under boost? If theres a link i missed that answers these please direct me to them. im trying to be extra cautious before my rebuild which is being delayed. :/

what would be a decent set of bearings to use? rod and main/thrust? that are good up to 400hp per say?
 
Last edited:
sure thing. LOL is actually been fun and easy

No replies isnt helping any :( I need to no if I lube the cylinder walls when installing pistons? and if i lube the block when installing main/thrust bearings? how well do OEM head bolts hold up under boost? If theres a link i missed that answers these please direct me to them. im trying to be extra cautious before my rebuild which is being delayed. :/

what would be a decent set of bearings to use? rod and main/thrust? that are good up to 400hp per say?


yes u need to lube cylinder walls, actually need to lube everything. any place where friction is. period. they have oil made just for that. just like cam lube for new cams. i would recommend arp head bolts if you are planning on boosting it. also you need to buy the highest grade head gasket you can find if you plan on boosting at later date. DO NOT buy the cheap felpro, not even the one from the dealership. they are not made for turbos. they will blow alot.
 
Yes Make sure everything is lubed inside that engine. And I believe some companies make head gaskets especially for boosting the 420A. Cleavite bearings should be fine.

I honestly dont know why you are tearing down the whole block for an overheating issue. Replacing the HG would be the farthest you would have to go for an overheating issue. The problem behind that most likely lies elsewhere.
 
Honestly its cause im fed up with it. Me my father, my papa and a few other people have looked at the car and tried fixes and nothing. It doesnt leak, smoke at all, has good compresson and says no oil psi. sometimes once it fires up i hear a slight knock and then it goes away after a second. sometimes i dont. i dont think its the headgasket cause of those reasons. i think it has to be a worn out crank. the mechanic said the oil could be slipping past the bearings or something wierd like that. but i found a set of cp pistons over bore of .20 and eagle rods brand new with a hahn stage 2 turbo mani and 20g turbo for 600 bucks so im buying them monday and going from there most likely.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top