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400 miles after rebuild, and..

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GrattinoDSM

10+ Year Contributor
219
1
Apr 10, 2009
Watertown, New York
so i've put about 400 on the motor i rebuilt, and have decided to get it checked out and fixed by someone who knows alot more of what they're doing and then i'm going to drive it as is until tax time and buy a daily and then mod the crap outta it... anywho!

i've put about 400 on it, and did a compression test it read as follows 150-150-130-150 could the 130 on cylinder 3 be just because the piston rings arent set yet, or what?
 
so i should recheck torque, probably round it up to 90ft/lbs? would that maybe help raise my compression numbers?
 
I would check them, but I dont think that would cause you to have 20psi less compression IN ONE CYLINDER.
 
You rebuilt the motor right? Are you sure that you did EVERYTHING right?
 
i followed all the torque specs and sequences and ring gap specs as the haynes manual said and what john from DSMgraveyard said, and what a mechanic at a shop where my mom used to work found, to double check i had him look up torque specs and sequences on the estimator/repair guide they use..
 
did you assemble the rings on the pistons and all that jazz? I guess what im asking is did you assemble the shortblock or did a mechanic?
 

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the mechanic who was helping me assembled the bottom end, i torqued rod bolts, because he didnt want to have anything to do with it if a rod bearing spun, but other than that i installed pretty much everything and torqued it down
 
so the mechanic did EVERYTHING with the bottom end, except for torquing the rod bolts?
 
word of advice is when youre gana build an engine fine the shops that are known for doing good work talk to them and see what your getting your self into.

i had dsmgraveyard send me a build head with cams so if anything goes wrong with head (as long as its not related to my install) i know who to call.

the block and its components i had assembled at a local machine shop, same thing if anything goes wrong with that or if they didnt install parts correctly i know who to call.

the rest is pretty hard to mess up if you read up on what youre suppose to do unless you where too hammer or your 5.

normally any mechanic will send these things to go get prepped and assembled by machine shops since they know torque specs and all. so make sure if that was the case or if he really did everything from scratch which i dont think is the case..
 
hey that thing was pretty helpful, LOL
i did "beat on it but not really beat on it" when i first rebuilt it, im leaning towards HG issue :( because my car overheats, but theres no coolant in oil or oil in coolant so i dont know, mom took off with my tools so i have to wait til she gets home to dig into it again
 
just a small update, i read that the molylube will run out after one or two oil changes, and since i've done only two, and haven't put barely any miles on the engine i torqued the studs to the 120 ft/lbs. as per ARP directions and wired in the 2G MAF so i can run a good intake so i can recirc my BOV. waiting on the injector insulators for the 560s that i am installing, will update again after i get her back together and do a compression test
 
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