#4 spun rod bearing... use 6 bolt bottom end?

[watchdog153]

Hey I just did a re-ring on my 95'gst and 50 miles later spun the #4 rod bearing. It was my fault i mixed up the rod caps when i took them off... (Wish someone would have told me not to mix them before i took it apart)

Im trying to weigh my options now, ive put alot of time and money into this car. Ive had the head off twice now, did all the work myself, plus i still have probly 1300 in parts still waiting to go on the car.

So heres my options:

(1) I have a 6 bolt bottom block sitting in my garage i could build up. Its complete but it needs rods (I'd use my 2g head which has been rebuilt)

(2) I had a very good mechanic tell me could try to measure all clearances and slap on another set of rod bearings. Also change the main bearings while hes at it for $225 labor. He says 50/50 chance it will work

(3) Stick with the 7 bolt bottom end. Get new Rods and Crankshaft (replaced or machined)

How hard is it to use the 6 bolt block with the 2g head? Ive read its as simple as boring out the headstud holes and changing a motor mount? Thats all i know about it

Thanks

 

[Boostinsideways]

You need to use the hyundai front case and oil pump as well so you can mount the 7 bolt crank sensor.

Either that or run a cas harness like the Magnus one. But that is the old school way of doing it, and its less accurate, causes random missfire codes, and the only up side is adjustable base timing.

 

[Alex7747]

I thought the Hyundai oil pump wasnt a direct bolt on for a six bolt? I thought you had to modify the oil pan?

 

[watchdog153]

Damn a Hyundai front case? Is that the timing belt cover case? Are there any threads on this? I havent seen them.

Thanks

 

[Alex7747]

Yeah its the case with the front main seal and where the timing belt pully goes. And yeah theres a thread on here. Id try and find it and post a link but Im on my phone sorry..just look under 6 bolt swap, or Hyundai front case. Something along those lines.

 

[jimbob_843]

I would 6 bolt swap. Just need to mod a motor mount, drill head holes, and use a black 1g cas. The rod end that spun will need resizing and crank is most likely trash. So if you have a good 6 bolt bottom end it would be cheaper to build it instead of getting new rods or resizing them all and a new crank. Machine work is pricey and you would be taking a chance of stretched rod bolts, crank and rod caps being out of round. A good set of forged p and r runs about 650 and comes balanced, arp'd, new rings. Only machining cost then would be boring/honing. Not to mention it will give you a solid reliable bottom end to start from.

 

[Alex7747]

Op, what are your plans for the car? If you're not looking for insane amounts of power, just do a stock rebuild on the six bolt. Theres no sense in doing a forged bottom end if you dont need it. Save the money and do a stock rebuild on the 6 bolt.. My .02

 

[jimbob_843]

This is true but a forged set is beter balanced and arp'd and stronger for not too much more than new oem.

 

[watchdog153]

I would 6 bolt swap. Just need to mod a motor mount, drill head holes, and use a black 1g cas. The rod end that spun will need resizing and crank is most likely trash. So if you have a good 6 bolt bottom end it would be cheaper to build it instead of getting new rods or resizing them all and a new crank. Machine work is pricey and you would be taking a chance of stretched rod bolts, crank and rod caps being out of round. A good set of forged p and r runs about 650 and comes balanced, arp'd, new rings. Only machining cost then would be boring/honing. Not to mention it will give you a solid reliable bottom end to start from.


That makes good sense, Thanks. I just need to find the details on how to do the swap then

I have a forced performance big t28 on the car. I was planning on 300-350whp. This is my commuter car no crazy power goals

 

[Boostinsideways]

I will try and find you some links

RRE Swap :

6 Bolt in a 2g

Hyundai Front Case method :

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...front-cover-6-bolt-2g-crank-angle-sensor.html

I still maintain that getting the Hyundai is oil pump and modifying an oil pan is the better/easier way to go in the end, unless you allready have DSM link and can just cancel any random misfire issues.

I have helped or done half a dozen swaps, and the random misfire can be pain, especially after you have the car running and going fine for a week or two and it pops up, it never seems to go away by itself. You have to pull over and reset your ecu, which involves pulling the battery leads, so you loose all your radio settings etc.

 

[jimbob_843]

Yeah stock can do that all day long but when new oem is as close in price to forged, why not go forged? Lol

 

[g4ebguy90]

What I don't get, is if your con rods are reconditioned that you can still spin a bearing by swapping big ends. Are you sure you just didn't install the big ends the wrong way with the tabs on opposite sides rather then close to each other. If i remember right I installed mine with the tabs on the same side.

 

[watchdog153]

Thanks for the link. Forged sounds good if its within $200 of stock. Should i Stay with stock pistons, or does it matter?

I dont think i turned any of the caps backward. But maybe that happened without me realizing it. i just remember i was keeping the side with the writing facing cylinder #1... I did pop the pistons back out after tho because i was second guessing myself about the rings being upside down. This was the first time i ever messed with a bottom end, it was a learning experience

In my mind i was thinking the tabs should be on the opposite side from each other... but like i said i just tried to keep all the writing facing one direction toward cylinder #1

 

[g4ebguy90]

Yeh, I spun a bearing. No fun.
This was the result after a late night run to indiana from IL to pick up a 6 bolt. *Look in the trunk* btw this car died as I left to pick up a friend with that engine in the trunk... Let me say pushing this thing lookn like this was bad.

What were the symptoms of yours??? just knock or what???

 

[watchdog153]

I will try and find you some links

RRE Swap :

6 Bolt in a 2g

Hyundai Front Case method :

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...front-cover-6-bolt-2g-crank-angle-sensor.html

I still maintain that getting the Hyundai is oil pump and modifying an oil pan is the better/easier way to go in the end, unless you allready have DSM link and can just cancel any random misfire issues.

I have helped or done half a dozen swaps, and the random misfire can be pain, especially after you have the car running and going fine for a week or two and it pops up, it never seems to go away by itself. You have to pull over and reset your ecu, which involves pulling the battery leads, so you loose all your radio settings etc.

I have dsm link but its not installed yet. Someone had swapped my ecu with one from a gsx... No eprom

Yeh, I spun a bearing. No fun.
This was the result after a late night run to indiana from IL to pick up a 6 bolt. *Look in the trunk* btw this car died as I left to pick up a friend with that engine in the trunk... Let me say pushing this thing lookn like this was bad.

What were the symptoms of yours??? just knock or what???

Great pic, the symptoms were knock yeah. Alot louder then a lifter tick, but it sounded like it was coming from the head. The knock sensor was retarding timing so I had no power at medium or full throttle

 

[Boostinsideways]

Well my suggestion would be to snatch up the next socketed EPROM you see on the classifieds, and drop a six bolt in her.

Plus that way when your talking with the ricer kids you can be all like "Hurr Hurr I got a 6 bolt swap in my car. Yeah its a cyclone motor over night parts from japan, came outta a 35k miles evo 2"

 

[watchdog153]

Well my suggestion would be to snatch up the next socketed EPROM you see on the classifieds, and drop a six bolt in her.

Plus that way when your talking with the ricer kids you can be all like "Hurr Hurr I got a 6 bolt swap in my car. Yeah its a cyclone motor over night parts from japan, came outta a 35k miles evo 2"

Lol your right, some fast and furious type shit Then i could go to race wars and burn some VW's

 

[g4ebguy90]

Man, if I only had a oil pressure sensor in my car, this would have been avoided... I had no power at medium and full throttle to.... Man.... Of all the sensors to not work when I bought my Gs-GST. ... Live and Learn.

 

[watchdog153]

Man, if I only had a oil pressure sensor in my car, this would have been avoided... I had no power at medium and full throttle to.... Man.... Of all the sensors to not work when I bought my Gs-GST. ... Live and Learn.

Huh yeah that suks, you ran the car out of oil? i always check mine before a long trip. I feel your pain if i would have know about the rod caps i would be turning up boost by now. My car was burning a quart of oil every 300 miles thats why i did the re-ring... live and learn

 

[g4ebguy90]

, no oil was full. Balance shaft bearing failed, got torn to peices, ended up in the bottom of the pan, engine lost oil pressure on highway, after driving 20 miles home, rod knock started as soon as I pulled into my driveway. Pulled the pan, peices of metal everywere, and number 3's rod was clunking. 5th day of ownership

But before that, I had symptoms same as yours.