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4 puck sprung or 6 puck sprung?

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I love my 6-puck unsprung with the ACT 2100. I'm FWD with about 230-250whp.
 
It's simple. the more you have to clamp, the more the friction will help. After that you have to decide if you like a little street feel with a loss of total strength, or if you want balls to the wall launches with no regard to parkinglots. . .
 
I have driven a few cars with a 6-puck, I must say the engagement on the 6-puck is a little harsh for a dd. The 4-puck would not be as harsh but will be a pretty stiff engagement. In my experience with cars and DSM's I would much rather have a clutch that can be streetable but can take abuse on truck days. My DSM now has a act 2600lb pressure plate and street disk. It holds up great to track days and is very easy to drive on the street. For me running 25lbs on a FP green I would say it does its job quite nicely. My brother used to own a 91 Tsi with 6-puck sprung. It was hard to get used to the engagement at first, but after I got it down it was easy to tell that it was meant more for a track vehicle with such snappy engagement.

It really all boils down too what you wanna do with the car and what your goals are power wise. The biggest thing of all is personal preference and how you want your car to drive. If I were deciding between the 4 and 6-puck clutches, I would go 4 since it would be better suited for more what you want to do with the car.
 
I have driven a few cars with a 6-puck, I must say the engagement on the 6-puck is a little harsh for a dd. The 4-puck would not be as harsh but will be a pretty stiff engagement.

You've got that backwards. A 4 puck disc is pretty much like having an on/off switch for a clutch even with a light pressure plate clamp and with a sprung hub.

Remember, the less area that contacts the flywheel, the more aggressive the clutch disc will be since the pressure plate's clamp load is distributed over the total area of the disc. As a rule of thumb in sequence of aggressiveness, it's usually: full face < sprung 6 puck < solid 6 puck < sprung 4 puck < solid 4 puck < solid 3 puck. The other option is a multi-disc clutch, where you can have easy engagement AND high torque holding power.

If you plan to drive this car on the street very much, go with either a full face street disc or a sprung 6 puck. If it's a track car mainly, go with the most aggressive clutch you can stand.

Also, if you're spending money on a lightweight flywheel remember that a puck style disc will wear the friction surface much more rapidly, and more rapidly yet the less surface area the disc has.
 
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Also with a twin you usually have easier engagement, I.E. less grindage at high rpms. they usually are a win win, but not with the budget :( .

I'm sure a 4 puck is lighter, but considering the weight of 4puck ans 6 puck, and either sprung or not; realistically, they are all far too heavy for good shifting at really high rpms. the 6 puck does better on the street typically. And it clearly has more clamping area. . . It's a better option if you're looking at a puck style disk.
 
I have 375hp FWD. Id say go with the 4 puck, it allows for more power to hold down if you plan on putting down around 350+. The difference between a 6 puck and a 4 puck life span wont be much either, so dont buy it on that note. I like my 4 puck more because it withstand more hard launches at the track before it got hot and started to slip. In my opinion a hot day and a lot of hard launches on sticky tires on the street are just as harsh as one day hot lapping at the track.
The pressure plate(PP) will affect the pedal feel. My ACT PP was harder on my foot than my CompetitionClutch(CC) PP. My CC stage 5 4 puck ceramic disc and PP feels just like a stock clutch set-up and hold great. I have no on/off characteristics at all.
The on/off feeling comes only from the unsprung hub which I personally didn't like, but you dont have to worry about the springs breaking off inside and causing a problem.
 
i'm on a 4puk sprung clutch atm.... after run in its fine, ever so slight slip but enough that you can drive every day.... 1st gear makes you look like a noob almost every time to the normal person, but to a car person they will know why......

match your clutch to your power level.....
 
You've got that backwards. A 4 puck disc is pretty much like having an on/off switch for a clutch even with a light pressure plate clamp and with a sprung hub.

That was my bad I thought i had that down right just had it all backwards. I in all honesty though hate puck clutches.
 
I DD my awd with a 2600 6 puck sprung and I know it is all about the drivers preference between say a street disk to a puck style, but honestly, its not bad at all. I actually switched from the street disk to the 6 puck and it was choppy until I broke it in. Now I can't even remember the difference. If you are looking at a clutch to hold 400+ but you still daily drive the car, get the 6 puck. If you want to push 500ish and really don't drive in on the streets much then I see the 4 puck being a little better. The PP choice is also something to consider as well because it is the clamping force that makes the clutch feel soo "on and off". A 2100 with a 6 puck vs. a 2900 with a 6 puck are very different.

So basically, its the combined components that really start to make a difference in the feel of the clutch. Not just the disk.
 
I am on a XTD Stage 4 Unsprung 6 Puck, and love it. Engangement is nice, and not real harsh. I also dd mine. Clutch pedal is heavier than stock, but lighter than the act 2600.
 
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