3rd gear wont go past 5k rpms?

[faulkner]

Okay so...first my car wouldn't go past 5000 rpms in any gear.
There was a tapped hole in my 1g bov. I put a bolt in there
With some sealer and now 1st and 2nd will go past 5k rpms
But 3rd won't? And I'm pretty sure fourth won't either. So sick
Of this car already....any sugestions?

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

Do a boost leak test. Check spark plugs and gap. Check base timing, check mechanical timing. Do you have a check engine light?

 

[eclipse420ags]

Sell it buy a 420a I couldnt resist. Do you have a picture of the hole you sealed?

 

[grudgedoutgsxr]

I had a similar problem, and what i did to solve that, was super glue the recirculating tube back to the BOV. Then after fixed my boost gauge leak. I hope this helps.

 

[faulkner]

I had a similar problem, and what i did to solve that, was super glue the recirculating tube back to the BOV. Then after fixed my boost gauge leak. I hope this helps.

Have pictures of this that your talking about?

Everything is good but a tear in one of my plug wires.
And can you take a pic of what you super glued and where did your boost gauge leak

 

[Abe'sGST]

Do a boost leak test. Check spark plugs and gap. Check base timing, check mechanical timing. Do you have a check engine light?

^^^^

 

[Breezio69]

So it didn't end up being the tune then huh... is it running better at least setup, aside from this issue?

I am going to have to agree now that the tune really can't be to blame, its gotta be a boost leak.

You said you did one before in the other thread, but how long did it take to get the gauge back to zero? Once you stop putting pressure in the pipes your looking for 1:1 on time in seconds vs psi. Example, you put in 20 psi, you want it to bleed down in at least 20 seconds. If it takes a significant amount of time less then there is a leak for sure. Also have a soapy water spray bottle handy, if anything you'll have a nice clean bay when you're done.

Another big indicator is if the turbo sounds like its putting in some serious work but your only pushing a small amount of boost. Beacause its got to make up for the air leaking out its over working itself.

Also, not to cheer you up anymore, but any fine tuning you did the other day with the boost leak will need to be re tweeked if that's what it really is. But you should have that safc down now

Edit: what he was talking about super gluing up top is the reciculating hose off the bov, I just run hose clamps on mine. And also, the recirc line being loose or leaking would really only affect between shifts... similar to if you ran vta without supporting mods

 

[faulkner]

okay, so i will do another boost leak test, can my boost guage leak?
and yes my car is running alot better after fine tuning it.
i just still dont understand how i can only not go over 5k rpms after second gear?!
and how would i go about making my turbo do less work haha

 

[Breezio69]

and how would i go about making my turbo do less work haha

Fix your boost leaks

The reason a boost leak is bad, well first off because its a leak... when you have a leak the turbo just keeps spooling trying to hit your mbc pressure or wastegate pressure, that in turn draws more air through the mas than you need or are actually using (because the leak is lowering your psi pre motor) then when the airflow readings go up, fuel trims go up, you hit fuel cut.

Make a little more sense on why even a tiny one can cause this... ill show you what I found on mine after I couldn't go further than 7psi and hit fuel cut any wot driving.

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Btw, I didn't run over a screwdriver or anything, haha... I just used it to show how big that crack was. This was the passenger coupler on my intercooler, it saw some nasty weather this winter as you can see

And you said you had a crack in a spark plug wire? Maybe its arcing under load from the wire to any metal point around it?

 

[grudgedoutgsxr]

I will take some when I get home. But my fpr had a slice in itnto it, so I cut it, and put a longer T-fitting on it

So it didn't end up being the tune then huh... is it running better at least setup, aside from this issue?

I am going to have to agree now that the tune really can't be to blame, its gotta be a boost leak.

You said you did one before in the other thread, but how long did it take to get the gauge back to zero? Once you stop putting pressure in the pipes your looking for 1:1 on time in seconds vs psi. Example, you put in 20 psi, you want it to bleed down in at least 20 seconds. If it takes a significant amount of time less then there is a leak for sure. Also have a soapy water spray bottle handy, if anything you'll have a nice clean bay when you're done.

Another big indicator is if the turbo sounds like its putting in some serious work but your only pushing a small amount of boost. Beacause its got to make up for the air leaking out its over working itself.

Also, not to cheer you up anymore, but any fine tuning you did the other day with the boost leak will need to be re tweeked if that's what it really is. But you should have that safc down now

Edit: what he was talking about super gluing up top is the reciculating hose off the bov, I just run hose clamps on mine. And also, the recirc line being loose or leaking would really only affect between shifts... similar to if you ran vta without supporting mods

Yeah the BOV tube top snapped so I glued it to the top to stop the leak it helped a lot.

 

[faulkner]

okay yeah...i have a boost leak.... hooked up my boost leak tester i made to a beer bottle and
it shot out so it holds about 50 psi. after that i hooked it up to my car and the gauge says 0 PSI!!
wtfff...it literally held nothing.. what is the best intercooler piping cuplers out there??

 

[Breezio69]

I peronally bought two one foot sections of coupler from extreme psi, I got the 12" sections because sometimes 3" isn't enough to line up some pipes... maybe its just my bastard intercooler setup though? I'm running evo8 intercooler with 2g piping, the 4" couplers I cut out of the 12" sections made it much easier to get it all to line up and clamp securely.

But the extreme psi stuff was great quality and fairly cheap for what it was. They had a sale on t clamps when I bought mine as well, got all new ones at $3 a pop for the 2.5".. spent about $80 shipped to completely redo my couplers with all new hardware.

But my question would be, how did you do the test if the coupler for the blt tester fit a beer bottle? Haha

Did you put it at tbdc, some do it 6 teeth clockwise on the cam gears from tbdc. One other thing to do, disconnect the uicp and run the tester on the tb elbow... this tests the motor, tb, injectors etc, then if that holds, put the piping back on and test from the turbo to test the piping... longer process but makes pinpointing leaks easier... you could replace the couplers and have a leak at the tb still and just wasted $80, see what I'm sayin

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

You need to find your leaks before you go replacing stuff. It could simply be a loose coupler. The 0psi. test means you have a huge leak somewhere, probably so big you cant even listen for it, you gotta feel around and check everything that is related to the system.

 

[faulkner]

yeah i see what your sayin i was just about to drop $80 on couplers too .
but my luck is that its not the piping after the one loose coupler i fixed. what
are other main spots that cause boost leaks besides intercooler piping.

 

[Breezio69]

Well, one place I'd be very suspect of is your bov that your already having issues with.

The throttle body can have some decent leaks around the tps, shaft seals, biss screw then you have injectors, pcv system, those are the main ones up top.

Then of course you have the couplers, the turbo itself, intercooler, bov for the other ones.

Its best to test individually like I was saying a couple posts ago. Test the engine and throttle body first by disconnecting the intercooler piping, if engine holds pressure its obvious it has to be bov or coupler. But still test for it...

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

EGR valve, throttle body (many pieces that can leak here), intake manifold gasket, faulty pcv valve, missing brake line booster check valve, cracked brittle emissions lines, intercooler cracks from debris, leaky bov and bov gasket.. mechanical timing?

Exhaust leaks: manifold to head, manifold cracks, manifold to turbo gasket.

A leak that large will most likely be a loose coupler that is slipping off then slipping back on when you get off boost either that or your compressor tank is very small or weak.

 

[faulkner]

there is a pipe under the turbo with aluminum heat wrap that drips oil, could that maybe cause it?

ANYTHING look out of place or obvious leak?

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[Abe'sGST]

there is a pipe under the turbo with aluminum heat wrap that drips oil, could that maybe cause it?

ANYTHING look out of place or obvious leak?

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That sounds like your oil return line. If it is, that is not the problem for your boost leak.

 

[faulkner]

Isn't the oil return line really thin. Think I have a steel braided one.

 

[Xploitn]

I would be greatly interested in seeing this beer bottle boost leak tester! Most owners here use a homemade tool like the one on VFAQ
IC Pipe Tester

You should add the Vacuum delete to your list of mods. If done correctly, that can greatly reduce the possible locations of a leak. Did you do it or was that from a previous owner?

Here is some information on the vacuum delete if you haven't looked at it before:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html
Make sure that you are looking at the Corrected Diagrams. I also recommend connecting your Fuel Pressure Solenoid for better warm starts and adding a catchcan for crankcase pressure blowby.

Do you have a pic of the valve cover? Do you still have a line running from your stock nipple (on the left side of the valve cover) the the short ram intake?

Ah, I am also noticing that you don't have a MBC listed in your mods list. Are you still using the stock Boost Control Solenoid? I am suspecting more and more that what is left of your vacuum lines aren't hooked up properly. That and (maybe) a faulty BOV.

 

[faulkner]

Here's the engine bay, if anyone has a sec to save my picture and maybe highlight the places i need to
check for leaks that would be awesome. i did just recently re plugged in my fuel pressure selenoid.
and the prievious owner did the vacuum delete. I CANT FIND THIS LEAK ANYWHERE!! there is no
hissing noise that i can hear. and all of my clamps/cupplers were just checked and re tightened....
ughh DSM probs...

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[Xploitn]

More like the problems of buying a used, modified car! BTW, your DSM looks super clean, be glad that you have one that looks so nice!

I wish I had a more definitive answer for you. I even looked at your other photobucket pics but didn't see anything alarming. I would be interested in seeing what the other DSMtuners say about that filter coming off of your valve cover. That is not the optimal setup, a non-vented catch can would be the best, but I don't know if it would prevent you from preforming a proper BLT.

Try doing the BLT after taking that little red filter do-hicky off and temporarily plugging/blocking the nipple.

Did you try taking off the UICP and testing from the throttle body elbow like someone had previously suggested? What was the result?

Jafromobile on youtube has four videos on performing a BLT. One of the techniques is done while the engine is running. Don't catch yourself on fire!
YouTube

Good luck!

I am of course talking about this little doodad that only proves to provide +5hp to the appearance to the car, but only when parked and the hood is up.

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[faulkner]

Haha thanks man I'm just glad mine doesn't look like all the other ones.
No I didn't test the throttle body elbow yet or with my red 5hp filter off and the nipple plugged
Could that really cause a boost leak?

 

[Xploitn]

To be honest, I don't know. I might get motivated to do some testing to resolve this question if no one else pipes up though. It'll have to be either before or after the 2PM mandatory showing of Fast and Furious 6.

 

[faulkner]

Okay I'm placing orders on parts now. Oil catch can is a for sure.
And the second thing is between new cuplers for intercooler or
A data logger..input? And will this oil catch can work? What all do I
Need to install it? And what's better a bigger or smaller one?

826-113-101 Weapon R Aluminum Oil Catch Tank - 24 fl oz for 95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse at Andy's Auto Sport

Or can I just get a 7.9 x 4.8 x 4.3 inches godspeed one off amazon?

℉@©k it I'm just going to buy 2' of intercooler coupler. The
Oil catch can, and a new bov. Is that a good idea, or could I possibly
Need a new gasket to my throttle body, erg valve or possibly if I have a leak
From an injector?