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350whp Daily Driver

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SlipGear said:
The evo16g was just a suggestion. I just need a good streetable turbo. Spooling time is not the biggest factor since I am FWD. I need to be able to run on 93 octane, and have decent reliability. I am also trying to keep a $4000+/- budget. I am trying to run atleast a 13.00 at the track.


16G should be enough to get you to 13.00. Hell I'm running mid 12's with a 14B and a Supra sidemount. It's AWD so that helps. Tuning has alot to do with speed. Just make sure you can tune as you modify, otherwise you're not optimizing what you have. Throwing a a$$load of parts at a car won't always get you there.
 
When did speed become a factor all he said is that he wanted 350whp hp for a dd. How fast you go can vary so much it's not funy and not even have anything to do with hp such as suspension shifting/driving how heacy a car is ect. With that said you shoudl be looking into 50 trims. I don't buy into the 20g guys ranting and raving because while the turbo is proven and great new technologies and price make the 50 trims too good of a deal to pass up. I know people complain about everyone jumping on the 50 trim bandwagon especially since "50 trim" isn't even technically how you would refer to the turbo as trim does not designae size just ratio but anyway my point in a nut shell I priced out a new 20g at the same price as a fp3575 which is not the kinda turbo your looking for but in case you don't know about it it's HUGE we'll leave it at that. So pay out the ass and get old technology or go with something new maybe even ball bearing(better spool) and pay less just my .02
 
hypothetically speaking, and of course it sounds to be out of the question, but just out of curiousity...
couldnt he run a T25 (or any turbo for that matter) but on a set of like 11:1 compression pistons? now before i get yelled at for this, i know it requires really high octane fuel and other goodies, but at that kind of compression a huge turbo isnt necessary right? or am i overlooking something here
 
bkruahnndon said:
hypothetically speaking, and of course it sounds to be out of the question, but just out of curiousity...
couldnt he run a T25 (or any turbo for that matter) but on a set of like 11:1 compression pistons? now before i get yelled at for this, i know it requires really high octane fuel and other goodies, but at that kind of compression a huge turbo isnt necessary right? or am i overlooking something here

Your overlooking the fact that a T-25 and tiny and cannot physically move enough air to make much power.

That is why the boost falls off up top with a T-25, the turbo simply cannot move enough air.
 
Oh boy, not one of these again...






As others have hinted at, you need to take into account all the aspects of your drivetrain for a daily driver. I expect that you don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a 300+whp engine that can't get you anywhere because the axles snapped. Click here for a reputable shop. DDS does in fact do 2G GS-T manual axles, but it is not listed. You need to call or email them to set up an order for that.

It's a daily driver, so you need to worry about other things than just power numbers. If you're looking for better track times than simply power, then you should also be looking at automatic torque biasing differentials, like Quaife or Kaaz. For the strip, you also need to remember tire choices, such as putting on slicks in the front.
 
Compression ratio does matter, although with a lower static compression ratio you can run more boost leading to a higher effective compression ratio and thus make more power.

Two cars with identical setups, one with a 10:1 and one with an 8.5:1. With all other variables held constant, the 10:1 will definitely make more power. However, the 8.5:1 will be able to run more boost on a lower octane fuel and thus can make more power (assuming the turbo will allow for it).
 
DSMunknown said:
Oh boy, not one of these again...






As others have hinted at, you need to take into account all the aspects of your drivetrain for a daily driver. I expect that you don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a 300+whp engine that can't get you anywhere because the axles snapped. Click here for a reputable shop. DDS does in fact do 2G GS-T manual axles, but it is not listed. You need to call or email them to set up an order for that.

It's a daily driver, so you need to worry about other things than just power numbers. If you're looking for better track times than simply power, then you should also be looking at automatic torque biasing differentials, like Quaife or Kaaz. For the strip, you also need to remember tire choices, such as putting on slicks in the front.

While that is something to be aware of you've made that post a little misleading. You don't need upgraded axles for a 300whp+ car. There are cars on this site that have over 700hp on stock axles. It's not normally power that breaks axles its usually the driver.

The main point remains though. When you are making more power you will break more stuff. So since this is your daily driver you'll just have to keep that in mind when you're doing your modding...and banking. Try to keep some cash stashed away for such repairs you'll need it!:dsm:
 
bkruahnndon said:
so are you saying compression doesnt matter when it comes to power?

No the Higher compression car would spool faster and make more power sooner but it would still be choked down by the tiny exhaust housing of the turbo.
 
Ahhhhhh, I LOVE these debates. Hey an Evo 3 will do 350awhp on pump gas, daily driven, with half the blades cut off donchaknow? Just ask the entire board that flamed me when I said it couldn't. :rolleyes:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241565&highlight=time+for+a+new+turbo

For those of us comfortably living in reality, the Evo 3 is a 300hp turbo and nothing more. Find something bigger.

The rest of your setup looks good.
 
Like he said on a stock longblock and all the bolt ons the evo will get you about 300whp on pump. Add some cams and meth injection and then you will be at your 350whp mark.
 
I'm going with SCM 5031RE 50 trim myself...garret dual bb, 3200 spool and 450 rating. Hell, with 57 trim its the same price and 3600 spool, 550 rating. Oh and bolts right up to stock manifold.
 
Rice Over Wheat said:
I'm going with SCM 5031RE 50 trim myself...garret dual bb, 3200 spool and 450 rating. Hell, with 57 trim its the same price and 3600 spool, 550 rating. Oh and bolts right up to stock manifold.


Don't absolutely bank on those spool times being dead on. I feel those numbers are more of a best case scenario.
 
Everything's a best case scenario when it comes to advertising products. In the case of a GT30R if they say 4200, that too. So it's all relative.
 
CanadianTSi said:
350whp daily just won't happen on an Evo 3, unless you drive around with c-16 and 26psi everyday.

MY friend has a 1g that he made 350whp with on pump gas at 25psi. He has a fully built motor, SMIM and all other supporting mods. But he drives around with 350whp on pump gas with the EVO3 16g. Don't ask for a dyno sheet to prove it you can either belive me or not. it is what it is.
 
I hit just under 300whp (294 if I remember correctly) with my evo3 16g and 20psi with a shitty tune with only s-afc. Now with an AGP RS49-T I made 364whp with 22psi with pump gas and a light tune with me tuning my DSMlink (I don't know what I'm doing LOL). I now run 25psi daily with meth injection. It's much easier to make the power with the 50-trim in my experience.

Don't worry too much about getting a Quaife ATB.. I bought one recently and I honestly see no ####ing difference on the road. I've been spinning 3 gear recently. I never thought I'd be able to do that, but it happens a lot.

You have the mods to support the 50-trim, so stepping up to that will be easy. Just gotta find a good deal for one (I bought mine with a custom o2 housing and tial 38mm wg for $1100. had 1000miles on it).
 
DSMunknown said:
Oh boy, not one of these again...






As others have hinted at, you need to take into account all the aspects of your drivetrain for a daily driver. I expect that you don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a 300+whp engine that can't get you anywhere because the axles snapped. Click here for a reputable shop. DDS does in fact do 2G GS-T manual axles, but it is not listed. You need to call or email them to set up an order for that.

It's a daily driver, so you need to worry about other things than just power numbers. If you're looking for better track times than simply power, then you should also be looking at automatic torque biasing differentials, like Quaife or Kaaz. For the strip, you also need to remember tire choices, such as putting on slicks in the front.

I hope you're not saying that he needs upgraded axles for 300-350whp. My car well over that for years and I have yet to have issues with axles.
 
MY friend has a 1g that he made 350whp with on pump gas at 25psi. He has a fully built motor, SMIM and all other supporting mods. But he drives around with 350whp on pump gas with the EVO3 16g. Don't ask for a dyno sheet to prove it you can either belive me or not. it is what it is.

Do you know the size of his cams in that setup? Thats a good HP# for pump. Is he running meth injection?
 
288 has been my personal best with a E-III. We won't even go into this past weekends dyno sesion. A local guy is at 345 with a gvr-4 on a E-III on meth.
 
CanadianTSi said:
350whp daily just won't happen on an Evo 3, unless you drive around with c-16 and 26psi everyday.


My good freind just made 317whp at 18psi with HKS cams and a EVOIII turbo being tuned with a AFC on pump gas.


Full support mods, front mount etc normal stuff nothing crazy




I would get one of those new Ball Bearing 50trims that are out now
 
317whp is not bad, still not 350 though. My brother dynoed 300whp/300lbtq at 17psi on an evo16g. No cams, completly stock internals and over 100,000 miles. You need race gas or injection to get 350whp on an evo16g usually.
 
SlipGear said:
This is my current Set-up. I am hoping to have a 350whp daily driver. Any suggestion or modifications to my set-up? I was also thinking about HKS cams.

Current Mods:
Injen Intake
2.5in Test Pipe
2.5in Down Pipe
3in Thermal Cat Back
MBC
Boost/Egt Gauge
Act 2100 with XACT Flywheel

Set-up:
Ported SBR Cast Manifold
Ported Evo III with 34mm Flapper
FIC 650cc Injectors
Apexi AFC Neo
Walbro 250
24" x 12" x 3.5" FMIC with Short Route Piping
Greddy Type RS Bov

I think if you had a 20g or bigger it is very possible. Don't waste your time with the EVO3 16G to make 350WHP, you will probably have to invest more money to make 350WHP on that turbo compared to something like a 20G or 50 Trim. I don't see on your list that you have an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator for that Walbro, I recommend you getting that as well so tuning won't be impossible to do and you know TUNING is the MOST important thing here.
 
Ok we keep dacning around in circles the point is making the hp with the 16g is POSSIBLE but it will be harder then if you just pick up a 20g 50 trim or something around that size. To be honest a good 16g will run you 360-400 bucs easy. A new style ball bearing 50 trim will run you maybe 8-900 for a good one and you will have head room to and be able to make your goal on pump gas easy(if everything else is there to support).
 
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