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3 port boost controller

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Dirtbike29

Proven Member
134
16
Mar 10, 2024
Surrey, BC, Canada
Can someone help me set up the vacuum line for this 3 port I think they are mixed up
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Your BPV/BOV is usually plumbed as close to the throttle body as possible but after the butterfly. Many use one of the ports near the runner.

The WG and solenoid is plumbed as closed to the turbo compressor cover outlet as possible, generally. Each line is separate and serve two different functions.

At the bottom of the page is a generic two port BCS setup. Earlier up is 3 port but for IR. Looks like one of your ports is permanent filter/discharge that would normally be rerouted to intake

Couldn't see in video but does your compressor cover or j-pipe/intercooler tract have a nipple for a boost reference source?
 
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Are you having forum post troubles or are we training AI here?
Do I need to get Son of Anton in here to converse?

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I'll give it one last shot and others can chime in:

Your BPV should be plumbed directly to the intake manifold behind the TB butterfly somehow. No T should exist there. Boost gauges and FPRS should be referenced off separate ports. Your TB are double looped, which is not uncommon when deleting various emissions and such, but you can use the P port for a boost gauge and just plug the other one with a vac cap and zip tie or other, more creative methods..

Some people T off the FPR line but I wouldn't, it just potentially delays response fo the AFPR due to the relative size of the line compared to the intake manifold.

Since you have a Magnus manifold, others will have to speak about potential sources for all your vac lines. You might have to get a bung or two installed for some hose barbs but I don't know what's available on your specific unit.

Your WG should have a line directly from the compressor cover or first foot of intercooler pipe (not a rule), run through your solenoid on the 'in' side (can't read which is which in video) and the 'out' goes to your WG.
 
I'll give it one last shot and others can chime in:

Your BPV should be plumbed directly to the intake manifold behind the TB butterfly somehow. No T should exist there. Boost gauges and FPRS should be referenced off separate ports. Your TB are double looped, which is not uncommon when deleting various emissions and such, but you can use the P port for a boost gauge and just plug the other one with a vac cap and zip tie or other, more creative methods..

Some people T off the FPR line but I wouldn't, it just potentially delays response fo the AFPR due to the relative size of the line compared to the intake manifold.

Since you have a Magnus manifold, others will have to speak about potential sources for all your vac lines. You might have to get a bung or two installed for some hose barbs but I don't know what's available on your specific unit.

Your WG should have a line directly from the compressor cover or first foot of intercooler pipe (not a rule), run through your solenoid on the 'in' side (can't read which is which in video) and the 'out' goes to your WG.
I have since rerouted it all and you’re correct I need a barb into the charge pipe for boost pressure to the controller as there’s none on the turbo housing I also need to find what oil pressure gauge I have to find the second connection it’s just lose in the engine

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Not sure why your WG has a plastic elbow and then a tee that's open on one end. That's going to obliterate your ability to control boost as all the charge air is disappearing into the atmosphere.

.. unless you fixed that
 
Not sure why your WG has a plastic elbow and then a tee that's open on one end. That's going to obliterate your ability to control boost as all the charge air is disappearing into the atmosphere.

.. unless you fixed that
I fixed it, I was just doing a mock up nothing is like that. This car was f***ed up with all the right parts installed.

I need to find what oil pressure gauge I have, to connect it, because it’s missing the receiving part in the oil has stock installed.
 
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Please, punctuation. It does't have to be perfect, we're not all comma warriors, but it helps us to understand what you're saying.

Yeah from the looks of the pictures (what's up with that dithering on the BCS?), you've got work to do. The red RTV that looks to be sealing the valve cover, the broken wire sheathing around the crank position sensor..

If it were me, and it was a couple times, I'd trace every wire to inspect and pull all the vacuum lines to re-do from the ground up. There aren't that many, especially with an emissions-deleted car.
 
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I haven’t found one yet was rerunning the wires inside
Please, punctuation. It does't have to be perfect, we're not all comma warriors, but it helps us to understand what you're saying.

Yeah from the looks of the pictures (what's up with that dithering on the BCS?), you've got work to do. The red RTV that looks to be sealing the valve cover, the broken wire sheathing around the crank position sensor..

If it were me, and it was a couple times, I'd trace every wire to inspect and pull all the vacuum lines to re-do from the ground up. There aren't that many, especially with an emissions-deleted car.
I have done it yesterday. I just need to tie it all up properly will be done tomorrow I will post an update. I’m just learning first build. it’s gone good.

I did full bolt on 2018 wrx and sound system so I have some knowledge, but nothing to this extent I already have a replacement gasket but I needed to fix the lines first if oil leaks at least it won’t be on the open wires. I appreciate the help!
 
We all start somewhere and most of us have seen some real horrible examples where the owner should not be allowed anywhere near a car. Yours seems to have some mods where there was some thought but all that red rtv is just ... Yikes!

We're here to help if we can!
 
We all start somewhere and most of us have seen some real horrible examples where the owner should not be allowed anywhere near a car. Yours seems to have some mods where there was some thought but all that red rtv is just ... Yikes!

We're here to help if we can!
It was built properly at one time sold to a kid at 16 and he blew an engine and swapped in the 6 bolt I see lots of money and no knowledge
 
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