2G 2gNT Need Help Installing Zex Wet Kit

[GSGoinFast]

you guys, i feel like an idiot but im having some trouble with the install. where do i tap into the power supply, and where is the lead for the TPS sensor. also, do i just drill a pilot hole in my AEM intake, and then use the threader tap that came with it or what? im trying to do this today so a quick answer would be nice.

thanks

 

[GSGoinFast]

ok, well i figured it out so ill post my solutions for anyone else that needs help, and im writing a tech article as soon as my friend give me his digital camera.

the TPS sensor... i stripped the middle brown/red wire of the sensor, and use the red crimper thing it came with to splice the white wire into it. ok, for the intake, the metal was too thin to thread, so i just drilled a 9/16 hole and used the bulk head included. make sure the nozzle is at a low enough angle, mine rubs against my hood a little bit. ok power supply, i drilled a hole in my firewall and ran the red wire from the box and the extra red wire it came with through to the cabin. i connected the red wire from the box to the unfused end of the switch, and the fused end to the extra red wire. make sure you grommet the hole. next i connected the extra red wire to the battery via the stud rings it came with. that was it. pretty simple. like i said i will have more detail in the tech article which should go up today.

 

[peanotation]

i'm just going to run a 12gauge wire from the battery to the ZEX switch then to the NMU, just have to make sure the switch is off when the car is off. I only did this because a ZexTech said the NMU needs a 12v 10 amp power supply, to be sure I just ran a wire from the battery, didn't want to splice into anything at the dash.

 

[GSGoinFast]

i'm just going to run a 12gauge wire from the battery to the ZEX switch then to the NMU, just have to make sure the switch is off when the car is off. I only did this because a ZexTech said the NMU needs a 12v 10 amp power supply, to be sure I just ran a wire from the battery, didn't want to splice into anything at the dash.

i didnt splice anything either, directly to the battery

the tech article is up...http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130336

tell me what you think

 

[DSMJim]

I'm glad to see you installed it yourself however I have a few suggestions for you.

1) The way your bottle is mounted you will never be able to run at a drag strip (this won't pass tech) so you may want to mention this in your article. It needs to be mounted to a surface that is metal, even for safty purposes mounting to that small cover is not a great idea. Have a look at my attached image (at the bottom of this message) to see where I mounted my bottle. That spot is great because it fit there easily and is very much out of the way if you have a stereo/spare tire. Also to pass tech at a track you need a blow down tube from your bottle since its mounted inside the car. If you mount it on that cover you would not be able to get a blow down tube long enough to go all the way down there and ouside the car (unless you attached rubber to it. A standard blow down tube will work where I have my bottle mounted.

2) You should mount the nitrous control unit to a metal surface as well. Screwing it to a block of wood and zip tieing that to your battery again will not pack a tech inspection at the race track. It would also need to be hard mounted to a spot on the body. If you wanted to keep it in that location you can make a bracket that goes from the battery tie down location over to the control unit.

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In this picture you can see how I mounted my MSD with a bracket I made so it sits infront of the battery. Because its screwed under the strut tower brace over to hold on the MSD it's not a problem for passing a tech inspection. Not that they would really notice it however they would notice your zip ties and not allow that. Remember nitrous, fuel and electrical all in one box that is not technically mounted to anything not exactly safe. I'm not saying yours is going to go anywhere but to the race track they won't allow it.

3) I'm sort of confused about your location where you took fuel from. The shrader valve is an 1/8th NPT (National Pipe Thread or just Pipe thread) fitting. The line provided from ZEX is a -AN 1/8th hose fitting which is the same thread however it uses the angle (or flare) on the fitting to seal it which is what allows you not to have to use teflon tape or pase on any -AN fittings. In your case you didn't mention useing any type of sealer, what exactly did you do? If you just screwed it on there you may want to use a sealer on it because with vibration and time that fitting is going to come loose or leak. You can't mix pipe thread and -AN fittings. Pipe thread uses the thread to seal so you need to use a sealant like paste or tape where as previously mentioned -AN seals because of the flare on the fittings. (look at your jets to see what I'm talking about)

4) You ran electrical though a small hole you drilled in your steering column. Maybe it's hard to tell in that picture however the hole appears to be small and you wraped tape around the wires so that they would not be cut by running them through the fire wall. This is also a pretty bad idea. Obviously your chassis is ground and running power through a hole like that will eventually lead to a short in your electrical. Up under your dash where your clutch pedal is there is a grommit that is rubber that is large enough to support running a lot of wire though. You should pop this grommet out and make a hole it in then put it back in so your wire runs through a rubber hole. This is ensure that you never end up with a short. Over time with vibration that wire will wear through and cause a short or worse. There is also a spot on the passenger side where there is a grommit you can run stuff through. I found poking a stretched out clothes hanger through from the outside then taping my wires to it then pulling them through made it really easy to get everything through.

Listen, I'm not knocking your install or anything like that. I applaud your efforts at helping others. The things you did are small and easily fixable and mearly suggestions from somebod who installs 15-20 nitrous kits year and has had nitrous in his last 4 cars. You don't want to leave things in a car to chance cause it can cost you big time if something goes wrong and your on the highway. Hopefully you understand the nature of my suggestions and don't feel like I'm trying to be a dick and rip you appart, thats not what I'm doing what-so-ever.

 

[GSGoinFast]

hey thanks for the help and suggestions. the wire isnt just electrical taped, it has a fuel line from an RC plane around it which is pretty thick then electrical tape around that, and it fits snuggly into the hole, so i think its ok. the bottle, how do i get the nuts on the bottom of the bolts? where can i the bottom of that spot? does the suspension block it? i thought that fuel line was flared so you didnt need any paste? but i dunno you seem to know your stuff. i wil try to make a bracked for the box. i cant do much now cause im on vacation but ill fix whatever i can when i get back. thanks for the help

 

[DSMJim]

hey thanks for the help and suggestions. the wire isnt just electrical taped, it has a fuel line from an RC plane around it which is pretty thick then electrical tape around that, and it fits snuggly into the hole, so i think its ok.

That sounds pretty good then, you may want to mention that in your article then.

the bottle, how do i get the nuts on the bottom of the bolts? where can i the bottom of that spot? does the suspension block it?

You see my picture above? There are holes all over that panel and you can get your fingers in there to tighten up the bolts. It does not interfere with anything there at all. You may not get a rear strut bar in there but who cares they don't work anyway...

i thought that fuel line was flared so you didnt need any paste? but i dunno you seem to know your stuff. i wil try to make a bracked for the box. i cant do much now cause im on vacation but ill fix whatever i can when i get back. thanks for the help

I'm not sure about the flare on the line, if it's not leaking it may be ok. I would probablly paste it because flared or not, it's not an -AN fitting so you should do some extra to seal it up. Better safe than sorry with that because it's not a proper fitting to a proper fitting.

You should be able to make up a bracket of some type for that box sort of like what I did for my MSD box. I just used aluminum and painted it black so it blended in.